B18C Full Build Complete - GSC power division cams Dynoed
Hello all, just finally getting around to posting a build i finally completed a few months ago. Any comments or suggestions are welcomed! Thanks!
The car - 1994 acura integra ls with gsr swap

The build - JDM b18c
Head -
Blox velocity stack to 3 inch intake
Blox larger sized port matched throttle body
Blox competition intake manifold tb port matched ( basically type r )
Supertech flat faced high comp valves
Supertech "turbo" titanium valvesprings and retainers
Supertech titanium keepers
GSC Power Division N2 Camshafts
Golden eagle cam gears
AEM fuel rail
RDX 410 cc injectors
ARP headstuds

Block -
.5mm over bored
pr3 b16a pistons
Manley rods
arp rod bolts
apacolypse racing high pressure ported oem oil pump
acl bearings
Tri Y Big Tube header 2.5 inch exit
2.5 inch high flow cat
2.5 inch megan drift spec exhaust
Dampened light weight crank pulley
Fuel -
Walbro 190lph hi flow pump
new oem filter
rdx 410cc injectors
pressure gauge
adj. flow FPR
Transmission
usdm b16 SI transmission
carbonetic/ats 4.9 final drive with matching 1st gear
Full carbon synchro set
JDM Type r LSD
Hondata s300
AEM EUGO
And the DYNO- please remember i am at a mile high in denver colorado with no oxygen up here lol. I also am curious as to what a different Intake manifold, smaller header, and different tuner would do. My current tuner seemed a little lacking. He couldnt get it to IDLE lower than like 1800 rpm and said its because my cams are so big and we are at such an elevation. Tuned a little rich and not to enough RPM in my opinion. Anyways lemme know what yall think. Thanks!!
The car - 1994 acura integra ls with gsr swap

The build - JDM b18c
Head -
Blox velocity stack to 3 inch intake
Blox larger sized port matched throttle body
Blox competition intake manifold tb port matched ( basically type r )
Supertech flat faced high comp valves
Supertech "turbo" titanium valvesprings and retainers
Supertech titanium keepers
GSC Power Division N2 Camshafts
Golden eagle cam gears
AEM fuel rail
RDX 410 cc injectors
ARP headstuds

Block -
.5mm over bored
pr3 b16a pistons
Manley rods
arp rod bolts
apacolypse racing high pressure ported oem oil pump
acl bearings
Tri Y Big Tube header 2.5 inch exit
2.5 inch high flow cat
2.5 inch megan drift spec exhaust
Dampened light weight crank pulley
Fuel -
Walbro 190lph hi flow pump
new oem filter
rdx 410cc injectors
pressure gauge
adj. flow FPR
Transmission
usdm b16 SI transmission
carbonetic/ats 4.9 final drive with matching 1st gear
Full carbon synchro set
JDM Type r LSD
Hondata s300
AEM EUGO
And the DYNO- please remember i am at a mile high in denver colorado with no oxygen up here lol. I also am curious as to what a different Intake manifold, smaller header, and different tuner would do. My current tuner seemed a little lacking. He couldnt get it to IDLE lower than like 1800 rpm and said its because my cams are so big and we are at such an elevation. Tuned a little rich and not to enough RPM in my opinion. Anyways lemme know what yall think. Thanks!!
is that an early vtec at like 4700?
power still climbing and tq not falling im sure it could have used another 800or whatever rpm..
how rich is too rich? 12.5?
overall it looks like good peak power especially considering elevation.
i have a friend with a very similar setup but running pro2's. made about 190 at xenocron's
power still climbing and tq not falling im sure it could have used another 800or whatever rpm..
how rich is too rich? 12.5?
overall it looks like good peak power especially considering elevation.
i have a friend with a very similar setup but running pro2's. made about 190 at xenocron's
is that an early vtec at like 4700? Vtec is set to around 6,500 i believe.
power still climbing and tq not falling im sure it could have used another 800or whatever rpm.. i just wanted to crack 200 lol
how rich is too rich? 12.5? no its not that rich that ive noticed, i guess im not up with the times but its usually 13.xx
overall it looks like good peak power especially considering elevation.
i have a friend with a very similar setup but running pro2's. made about 190 at xenocron's
power still climbing and tq not falling im sure it could have used another 800or whatever rpm.. i just wanted to crack 200 lol
how rich is too rich? 12.5? no its not that rich that ive noticed, i guess im not up with the times but its usually 13.xx
overall it looks like good peak power especially considering elevation.
i have a friend with a very similar setup but running pro2's. made about 190 at xenocron's
that 5- 6 k rpm dip is nasty i never even really noticed that.....wonder why its there. Also wanted to state the cam gears are set to 0,0 and the tuner left them there even after i inquired about degreeing cams and changing those settings. He insisted 0,0 will make most power, i was skeptical but dont have any info to dispute claim. I even clayed the motor and had a clearance chart i made for all the cam gear settings that he ignored.
that 5- 6 k rpm dip is nasty i never even really noticed that.....wonder why its there. Also wanted to state the cam gears are set to 0,0 and the tuner left them there even after i inquired about degreeing cams and changing those settings. He insisted 0,0 will make most power, i was skeptical but dont have any info to dispute claim. I even clayed the motor and had a clearance chart i made for all the cam gear settings that he ignored.
A toda replica would really shine on this motor.
Also, sounds like you need a new tuner.
Your elevation has no bearing on corrected numbers FYI. Your actual numbers will be low but SAE corrected will be just like the sea level guys.
theres definatley more power to be had here.any other tuners in that area. sounds like this guy is just in it for the cash.
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A Toda replica will definitely help. Like a few others said you might want a new tuner, you should not be idling that high. I am not familiar with those cams but degreeing them in correctly would help.
Not too sure, idle problem, and dip in midrange. But he got the torque to hold out really flat other than the dip in midrange, which could be a hardware issue. Hard to say, but I like how the torque is flat other than the dip. Looks good.
that's pretty good. 900-1200rpms.. MAN UP..
So, what if its not "stock idle".. that's why you have camshafts. TO WORK, not to be stock.
So, what if its not "stock idle".. that's why you have camshafts. TO WORK, not to be stock.
vtec needs to be rasied up. I had that same issue with a very similar setup and tuner 2 cams. Set vtec to 5600 and the dip was went away.
Those cams aren't big. They should idle fine around 900.
Torque looks good - VTEC would be moved up a bit. I'd try a bigger header, and longer intake or at least a tuned intake.
Better manifold. Numbers aren't OMGGGGGG, but they are solid and if the car performs well, who cares what the numbers are, as long as your happy.
Torque looks good - VTEC would be moved up a bit. I'd try a bigger header, and longer intake or at least a tuned intake.
Better manifold. Numbers aren't OMGGGGGG, but they are solid and if the car performs well, who cares what the numbers are, as long as your happy.
well the car sure is fun to drive, no complaints there; its just that id like to improve the engine more, especially since this is my first build and i did all the work, measured every spec, and hand assembled every piece. So here are the points im focused on -
1- idle - it really idles high at like 1800 to 2000 and id prefer a more normal idle. Sounds like yall say this can be fixed.
2- more power/ less dip - Im looking at different I.M. and header combos for this. Im definitely thinking toda rep header, but not too sure on the intake mani. an edelbrock maybe?
3- i think with the cams degreed and the cam gears set differently i could easily achieve a better idle and more power. Maybe a different tuner is needed then because my current one wasnt having any of that for sure.
Thanks guys!
1- idle - it really idles high at like 1800 to 2000 and id prefer a more normal idle. Sounds like yall say this can be fixed.
2- more power/ less dip - Im looking at different I.M. and header combos for this. Im definitely thinking toda rep header, but not too sure on the intake mani. an edelbrock maybe?
3- i think with the cams degreed and the cam gears set differently i could easily achieve a better idle and more power. Maybe a different tuner is needed then because my current one wasnt having any of that for sure.
Thanks guys!
well the car sure is fun to drive, no complaints there; its just that id like to improve the engine more, especially since this is my first build and i did all the work, measured every spec, and hand assembled every piece. So here are the points im focused on -
1- idle - it really idles high at like 1800 to 2000 and id prefer a more normal idle. Sounds like yall say this can be fixed.
2- more power/ less dip - Im looking at different I.M. and header combos for this. Im definitely thinking toda rep header, but not too sure on the intake mani. an edelbrock maybe?
3- i think with the cams degreed and the cam gears set differently i could easily achieve a better idle and more power. Maybe a different tuner is needed then because my current one wasnt having any of that for sure.
Thanks guys!
1- idle - it really idles high at like 1800 to 2000 and id prefer a more normal idle. Sounds like yall say this can be fixed.
2- more power/ less dip - Im looking at different I.M. and header combos for this. Im definitely thinking toda rep header, but not too sure on the intake mani. an edelbrock maybe?
3- i think with the cams degreed and the cam gears set differently i could easily achieve a better idle and more power. Maybe a different tuner is needed then because my current one wasnt having any of that for sure.
Thanks guys!
Hello all, just finally getting around to posting a build i finally completed a few months ago. Any comments or suggestions are welcomed! Thanks!
The car - 1994 acura integra ls with gsr swap

The build - JDM b18c
Head -
Blox velocity stack to 3 inch intake
Blox larger sized port matched throttle body
Blox competition intake manifold tb port matched ( basically type r )
Supertech flat faced high comp valves
Supertech "turbo" titanium valvesprings and retainers
Supertech titanium keepers
GSC Power Division N2 Camshafts
Golden eagle cam gears
AEM fuel rail
RDX 410 cc injectors
ARP headstuds

Block -
.5mm over bored
pr3 b16a pistons
Manley rods
arp rod bolts
apacolypse racing high pressure ported oem oil pump
acl bearings
Tri Y Big Tube header 2.5 inch exit
2.5 inch high flow cat
2.5 inch megan drift spec exhaust
Dampened light weight crank pulley
Fuel -
Walbro 190lph hi flow pump
new oem filter
rdx 410cc injectors
pressure gauge
adj. flow FPR
Transmission
usdm b16 SI transmission
carbonetic/ats 4.9 final drive with matching 1st gear
Full carbon synchro set
JDM Type r LSD
Hondata s300
AEM EUGO
do you need a resistor box for the rdx I jectors
And the DYNO- please remember i am at a mile high in denver colorado with no oxygen up here lol. I also am curious as to what a different Intake manifold, smaller header, and different tuner would do. My current tuner seemed a little lacking. He couldnt get it to IDLE lower than like 1800 rpm and said its because my cams are so big and we are at such an elevation. Tuned a little rich and not to enough RPM in my opinion. Anyways lemme know what yall think. Thanks!!

The car - 1994 acura integra ls with gsr swap

The build - JDM b18c
Head -
Blox velocity stack to 3 inch intake
Blox larger sized port matched throttle body
Blox competition intake manifold tb port matched ( basically type r )
Supertech flat faced high comp valves
Supertech "turbo" titanium valvesprings and retainers
Supertech titanium keepers
GSC Power Division N2 Camshafts
Golden eagle cam gears
AEM fuel rail
RDX 410 cc injectors
ARP headstuds

Block -
.5mm over bored
pr3 b16a pistons
Manley rods
arp rod bolts
apacolypse racing high pressure ported oem oil pump
acl bearings
Tri Y Big Tube header 2.5 inch exit
2.5 inch high flow cat
2.5 inch megan drift spec exhaust
Dampened light weight crank pulley
Fuel -
Walbro 190lph hi flow pump
new oem filter
rdx 410cc injectors
pressure gauge
adj. flow FPR
Transmission
usdm b16 SI transmission
carbonetic/ats 4.9 final drive with matching 1st gear
Full carbon synchro set
JDM Type r LSD
Hondata s300
AEM EUGO
do you need a resistor box for the rdx I jectors
And the DYNO- please remember i am at a mile high in denver colorado with no oxygen up here lol. I also am curious as to what a different Intake manifold, smaller header, and different tuner would do. My current tuner seemed a little lacking. He couldnt get it to IDLE lower than like 1800 rpm and said its because my cams are so big and we are at such an elevation. Tuned a little rich and not to enough RPM in my opinion. Anyways lemme know what yall think. Thanks!!

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