Hey Hondatech im new to this site, hope someone can help me out .-)

I got a 96 Civic VTi with a b16a2 engine.
I already got: Toda exhaust manifold, 400 cells cat and 2.5" Greddy Sp2 Catback.
Intake manifold is from an Integra Type R and also the Throttle body
Cams are from Civic EK9.
ECU is a P28 with Hondata s300
Currently it makes 192-195 hp this is on the flywheel.

I was thinking of changing the Intake manifold to a Skunk2 ultra street and Throttle body to a 68mm pro series, anyone tried this on a Little 1.6 litre ? with good gains or is it Waste of Money?
Its a daylie driven car so dont wanne get too crazy

Hope u have some inputs :-) thanks

 

Bigger exhaust

smaller head gasket

port the head

run a test pipe instead of the cat

get some slightly bigger cams

 

You can make 200+ to the flywheel with what you have. 5-8 crank hp is easy to find by just tuning. Also what type of air intake? Tuned length w/ a v-stack will show some gains as well. Skunk2 ultra street and TB will be a waste on this motor IMO. ITR IM and TB is fine. Last thing would be some bigger cams.

 

U mean the bigger catback? or the manifold ? both are 2.5"
I actually tried the test pipe and lost power to 192 :-)
but port the head and bigger cams like examble Toda spec b?

Forgot to say i got Mugen Air intake
Carsten

 

The toda b's are a good cam, make great mid range but don't seem to "peak" like other cams, I'm referring to what I have seen in 1.8's and 2L though. They might be a hair big on a stock B16 w/ a stock head.

 

Correct.. the spec B cams need higher compression from God poisons in order for them to work, and don't work well with cheaper methods of raising static compression, like milling and head gaskets and such.. but 200whp can still be done by other means

 

This motor/build is FAR from 200 to the ground.

I think the OP would benefit from putting the stock IM back on and some S2S1, Toda A, BC3+, or cams from DD Tech. That should put you over 200 crank.

 

Dont think i will benefit hp wise with stock im an tb. But other cams might be an idea :-)

 

I would port the Type R manifold with a larger throttle body. Then add a moderate cam and that thing will make great, reliable power. Until you up the displacement, compression, cams, port the head etc. that big manifold isn't going to make any noticeable difference. The engine doesn't have air demands that high....yet.

 

Here is the before and after retune dyno http://www.bilgalleri.dk/galleri/239283-honda_civic

 

People made over 200whp on a N/A B16 over a decade ago. Hell, Omniman even made a DVD on how to make 200whp... stop being lazy and research man.

 

Omniman made "200 whp" at Church's.



Just sayin'

 

Haha, oh yeah, forgot about that... fugg it, turn up the b00st y0!



Even still, there are soo many cookie cutter recipes out there it doesn't take much to figure it out. In the end a very simple B20V setup is the best route money can buy on a budget. Without spending quite a bit more money his setup isn't going to get a whole lot better. That money could go towards a prepped B20 bottom end and a LSV conversion kit.

 

I am sitting at 173hp at the wheels on 91 pump gas, on a mustang dyno with my b16a2 & it is built. I made my max power at 9500. 12:1 compression, forged pistons and rods, ported and polished head (is also built), itr intake manifold, skunk2 throttlebody, 3" stainless intake, 3" velocity stack, fully tuned on Hondata s300, the basically the largest skunk2 cams money can buy (at the time), adjustable cam gears set at zero degrees because the cams are so big, if I degree them I will have piston to valve contact, mugen header, mugen resonator and mugen twin loop (no cat). I am switching to a rmf v2 with a megaphone (already bought it) just need to swap it out and tweak a/f and possibly some timing, should hopefully gain me an extra pony or two. Then I will be getting a custom vibrant set up in 3" pipe from the header back. The. I will be swapping in my b20b4 next year sometime, I want to try and max out my b16 before I do my swap, without switching to race fuel or e85.

 

^lol.

Most stock block/stock head B20V's make >170whp, and thats usually even without Type R cams.

And also, a 170whp B20V will walk all over a 170whp B16 every day of the week.

 

The problem for me is i live in a small country in europe called Denmark
B20 dont grow on trees here an are expensive as hell. Same go for b18c engines. Every time i hit the dyno to get a/f ratio justed it cost aroung 500 $
And every part u buy u have to import from UK. USA or other cointries and they get at least twice as expensive as u are used to in USA due to taxes and fraight wages :-) thats why we dont just go b18/b20 u pay around 5000 $ for one of those swaps here

 

In my B16A2, I swapped S2 Pro-manifold to ported* P2T-manifold (=EK4's original) and I basically made same power, just 850rpm lower. With Pro-series 189.7hp@8650rpm and with P2T 188.2hp@7799rpm (IAT was little bit higher because of ambient temp). Peak torque settled about same rpm levels as before (~7700rpm), but it increased 10Nm/ 7.4lbft.
60mm throttlebody wasn't restrictive part at all, I switched it to Type-R's 62.5mm and tuned it, no gains.

*Runner bell mouths was maded wider, all casting marks etc. cleaned away and IACV "bump" smoothened down.

 

Yep, small markets do that. Here B20B3/B20Z1 cost typically ~$1300 (w/o shipping) in wreck yards but you can find sometimes them under $800, in mint condition if you are lucky.
I tune my fuelmaps on street (well, highway) and use dyno just when I have to.

 

But i will defently consider porting my original ek4 intake manifold :-)
I dont seek 200whp at all. Think the 195 hk on fly atm is pretty ok :-) what u normally loose from flywhell hp to whp ? 15-20% ?
My car atm is pretty fast beating most cars here. And yes cars in denmark are crazy expensive to. Most pepple dri e cars here just to work not for fun and we pay around double or tripple the amount for em due to taxes.
No one almost drives 6 or 8 cylinder cars here. So what u meet on the street is normally shity golf 3-4 1.8 turbos and something like that with around 150-200 hp

 

OE work fine on these leves, it is proven. We have race classes in here, where you have to use original intake manifold (modifying is allowed), stay in classified engine sizes etc. .
And yes, something like that if we are talking about roller dyno. Depending type of transmission and tyres rolling resistance. But what's more important, don't concentrate too much dyno numbers, they varies depending dyno. Clock is telling the truth .

 

I have seen dynos of people doing 185 -190whp with stock bottom and top ends no cam swaps. Charlie Mou knows what I am talking about... this guy has some extra parts to play with.

Either way, a stock N/A B16 is not the route to go for huge powa!

 

Maybe someday i will have the 5000 $ it cost for a b18c engine here with tax and fraight. But until then im stock with my b16. So im seeking advise in getting my b16 to perform the best it can and not why i am stupid and dont swap to b18/b20/k20/k24 or something capable of more na power :-) i know very well that
I dont have any needs of 200 whp im was just going to try beat the 200 hp on flywhell as the first in denmark with stock bottom :-)

 

interesting thread,

avoiding the common vague advice like more comp , big cams shizzle dizzle
LOL

for the OP
you would realize sooner or later that rpm would be your friend,
so lets say you have a b16a assuming mostly stock

*cylinderhead
- you gotta have the head ported decently, no shadetree backyard diY thing
and thats not to say diy aint good.. but in EU there are a few places that can do your
heads im sure you would be fine

- any decent valvetrain (springs and retainers) would suffice, skunk2 , supertech etc

- camshaft ; would be highly dependant on what pistons you would run or compression
you could attain, biggest and baddest wont be needed here

*intake manifold
- the stock ITR IM with 62mm ITR TB should be good for you
though a p30 with a 62mm might give you more midrange and then some

Bottom end :

not sure if you plan to keep it stock , if you wish to mod or upgrade some, then we can prolly expand the discussion to it,

sidenote :

your figures are flywheel so at the wheels you are prolly looking at 160whp (assuming dynojet) thats quite a healthy b16a you got there may i ask if its a gen2 obd1 b16a?

we did a b16a a few months back stock block untouched just some head clean up CTR exh cam and Pro1 intake , ITR IM and b16a 60mm TB , ebay header
did 176whp (dynojet) thats prolly a shade over 200hp at the crank = should hit your goal

you have a better header than what we used so thats cool

- the guy mentioning he did 173whp b16a on a Mustang dyno , thats pretty strong man!
people forget how low reading a mustang dyno is compared to a dynojet.. and compared to a dynapack cough* church's LOL

- i sent a few manifolds i reworked to a few guys in europe
each manifold boxed costs 230ish $ to ship via dhl LOL so yeah i can understand the OP's dilemma on expense and tax...

HTH mr. denmark man you can pm me if you wanna talk about this more
dont worry i dont sell anything and im far from norway so im not selling anything hahaha LOL

 

I did 205whp with GSR cams on a high compression 2 liter with headwork.

I did 175whp on B16 cams with no headwork in a 1.8L and that was a VERY stingy dyno.

I have seen ITR motors hit 200whp without cracking open the block.


It can be done. It just takes expensive parts.

 

power is in the head prep