I have done some research, but its really hard to pinpoint exactly where the answer is. I have read a little here and there, but most of it was BS and trash talking. So far, this is the best option I have found, that consists minimal machine work and almost no headwork done. Lets start by saying, this is a mild build and want something reliable on 91 octane with stock bottom end.


This is the list I have, from a member who has helped me so far:

81.5mm Pr3 RS Machine Pistons
ARP head studs and rod bolts
Skunk2 intake manifold with 65mm throttle body
Skunk2 alpha header
Hondata S100
2.25mm catback exhaust


OEM P28 with ob1-ob2 jumper harness
OEM Bearings for rod and main
OEM gaskets
OEM Type R Intake valve springs and retainers.
OEM GSR exhaust valve springs and retainers.
OEM Type R cams


Now, does it matter what yr the Type R cams are off of, or if its JDM or USDM? Nevermimd, found my answer. Will just look for whichever i find.
If im missing anything, please don't hesitate to speak up

Since I need to replace my HG, I might as well add a little hp gain. Nothing serious, as this will be my DD and I will never go boost. If it does end up being more work, then I will just stick with stock.

 

Does Hondata even make the S100 anymore?

Why a P28 ECU? unless you need a P28 map, any OBD1 ECU will work.


I still dont know what engine this is all going into. Whats the purpose of the car?

 

I race her at autocross and drive it to school and every where in between

98 GSR 5speed b18c1. I will be using GSR rods. Looking to produce roughly 180+hp on stock bottom. I dont know what other tuning programs that r out there. P28 is the easiest to find.

I did find my answer about the ITR cams. Will just look for which ever one is available

 

If it were me, Iwould look towards the new S2 ultra manifold, and use any OBD1 ecu with Neptune. Or Hondata S300. Dont spend the extra cash on the P28 unless you need the P28 map. Goto www.Xenocron.com for that.
I would go with a 3" exhaust as long as the collector on the header is good. I would go with a PLM Toda Replica as its proven to have better gains then any S2 header.
Keep it simple and be rewarded with everything your looking for.

Heres a 3" piping kit with all new hangers, hardware and flanges. You pick what muffler and res you want.

http://www.vrsexhaust.com/TUBING_KIT.../honda_tk.html


Again, this is what I would do. But everyone has their own opinions..

You better look to see the compression on your build as 91 octane will need a spot on tune. Just saying.. You might have to get a thicker HG to drop it a little for reliability.

 

For a DD and autocross car, save your money on the IM and TB. A stock P30 IM will make more usable power than most other IM's. And a stock 60 or 62mm TB will be fine.

 

****, just realised you have a GSR head... A B16 manifold wont fit.. In that case, either stay stock, or find a Type R style that fits the GSR head.

 

Thanks for the input.

I have decided to postpone on the build. Need to replace the rack and pinion first. Yup, im keeping PS...its very useful in autocross

 

What class? Be careful with your mods if you don't want to end up in SMF. Once you cross the line into crazy intake manifolds and such, you'll be forced to run with really built out cars, and it's not a ton of fun when you don't have a chance at being competitive.

Personally I wouldn't do the P30 pistons, P73-00 (or even A0) with the P72 head will still net you pretty good compression and be more forgiving with fuel... especially if you intend to stick with a milder cam. Compression isn't the end-all to power. Spend some money on a well though out valve job and you should have a really nice package otherwise.

 

Im in SP class. Agreed, cus i still need to focus on suspension and get wider wheels to compete in the class im in now

Thanks for the tip. I still have a lot to learn in builds and autox

 

Eh, I gotta disagree with most of what you said. NO reason to go S300 on a simple build like this, **** a stock P73 could probably run it. Crome is free, use that if you tune it.

Also, I've never seen a dyno of the ultra manifold making power on a mild build like this, in fact I've seen the opposite. I think the Pro series manifold is more suited to this mild 1.8L

Please link a test where the Toda rep beats out the Skunk2 Alpha. In Mikey's tests they were pretty much even on a 1.8 liter, but the Alpha rocked out on the 2 liter. I would recommend the Toda rep on this motor only because it's so mild, and the Alpha tends to produce a nasty dip around 5500 RPMS. The Toda will feel better in this car as a daily driver, although ultimately make a bit less peak.

OP - Definitely, definitely go with a bigger exhaust. 3" if you don't care about noise, 2.75" if you still want to make power, I would absolutely not go below 2.5", and even on this build you will see significant gains by going bigger.

Also check out the Skunk2 stage 1 tuner cams, they are street legal, can use ITR valvesprings, and they will walk all over ITR cams.

 

Yea, true.. ^^

I read a comparison somewhere on here about the Toda Rep being just as good. It was years ago. But its why I went with it.

Your correct about the S300, He could also be tuned on a Neptune Program and have the map burned onto his chip. He would lose data logging and RTP.

And finally, I figured the threads I read on the Ultra mani were pretty decent. Im not a fan of S2 but we all know the design was ripped off, but its still a decent design. For this build, whatever works.


EDIT: Im running 3" with 2 res and a Vibrant universal muffler.. not loud for DD until you put your foot in it. Drone is ALOT less then the magnaflow I had.

 

Bigger exhaust, at least 2.5". I'd go 3"