Sup to all. I did a timing belt on my D16Z6 with all the trimmings, tensioner, waterpump, etc. Anyway after a day I had seen white billowing smoke and bubbles in the coolant tank. No worries tho, I have mad experience and this is easy for me. The only issue I had was the torquing of headbolts, which are NEW but not HONDA OEM dealer bought. They are the spiral, oil control bolts for this engine under parts description. After the 1st 22lbs step no prob, bolts where coated with Lubriplate on threads and heads of bolts. The close to water proximity bolts I use Loctite thread sealant which is white and pliable, doesnt harden at all. This bolt that stripped the block threads had Lubriplate, so I figured lets check another bolt with Loctite also. The same thing happened. My question is its obvious block will need machining work on thread repair. Seen Time Serts and Helicoils. So which would be the best to use? Also this motor had newly installed gasket prior to me changing it again. Could the threads already have been damaged or worn to the nub as for a new bolts concerned?

 

Might be cheaper to get a used D block than have a machine shop fix those threads.

They usually strip out from cross threaded, contaminated threads and over torquing to name a few.

The majority of torque specs are 'dry' specs.

 

Just get a TimeSert for it

Bel Metric sells timeserts for this. alot cheaper then swapping blocks

 

Head bolts on the D-Series are for sure wet/oiled torque specs not dry.

Motor mounts and such are dry spec, but not head bolts.

 

^^^^agreed! Head bolts are def. Not dry spec... if the head gasket was recently done... and you had to do it again are you sure you dont have a cracked head or block?

 

Thanks for the clarification on the D block torque specs guys

 

Well I ordered the bolts from this place called Mizumo Auto. The bolts were new and cheap so I got em. The bolts are definitely oil soaked. Lubriplate is an engine assembly lube which is a white moly grease. And no I dont feel theres a crack in block or head. You have to remember that I have no idea what was done to the block before. They could of had some issues and over torqued the bolts to compensate for the stretch already from bolt reuse. What I do know is it needs to be fixed. A machine, LMAOI can do the work myself on the car...literally. the block doesnt need to come out for this. Its not that hard if you know what your doing and how, I DO! Mad experience thru years of traveling around the US and over seas working on HI-PO Diesels in Yachts, for a engine distributor. I just need some SOLID info on the Time Sert/ Helicoil question. Can and will Helicoils hold the clamp load needed? Will the threads become compromised in time? I feel the repeated torquing and old threads is the issue. But some input is appreciated mosdef.

 

The helicoils should hold for one time head installstion. But if the head ever has to come back off....

 

Time Serts are the best option around and will hold for much longer than helicoil, especially on critical components such as head, con rods etc. Helicoil is fine for non critical components like oil pan drain plugs.

Your time sert is threaded in (after tapping) and then cinched by the bolts themselves. And is considered a permanent fix.

Also of note, OEM Honda head bolts don't need to be replaced in most circumstances as per the Honda Manual. You'd be better off either getting another set of OEM head bolts or ARP head studs instead of trusting cheap knock off head bolts. Just my two cents.

 

^^^^^^^^ agreed!

 

They are Honda bolts I guess... so says Mizumo by the part number. Check this out, seems their site has been down. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRX-Civic-Delsol-1-6L-SOHC-Cylinder-Head-Bolts-/360378578704?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53e83cb710. This is what was purchased for headbolts. I have found that 7 out of 10 holes have been screwed with so retapping and checking for insert install will be needed. If coils have alredy been installed then larger size will be needed. Not looking good 2 holes alredy will need enlargement to M12. So...I heard enlarging is a BIG NO NO!!! Is this true? Will enlarge holes weaken other areas?

 

I wouldnt purchase cheap ebay bolts for something as important as a head.

f you dont feel comfy using a time sert, then shop around for a new block.

I know of a freshly built D16Y8 longblock with 0 miles going for 700 bucks. Los Angeles area.

Cheap if you ask me!

 

Those are Mizumo auto sold bolts.Supposedly same as OEM. They sell gasket sets for all kinds of cars, timing chain kits, etc. These bolts were cheap yes in cost but if they work they will be fine. The issue is the block...can it be drilled to a M12 for diff bolts is the question. Not concerned bout these bolts as of the moment. The block and larger diam holes, is there room up front by water pump area to accept larger bolts?Will I hit a oil or coolant galley? Sum1 alredy went thru the trouble to put inserts in 7 out of 10 holes. They also drilled holes in different lengths, some way deeper than they should. So I need some sort of answer if anyone has attempted. The 2 bores by waterpump are unmolested and 1 bore at the trans end. How I know is cause Helicoil inserts as a standalone dont fit in the bores.

 

Cool...now how about if I wanted to just go larger in thread size for new bolts instead? Like 12/1.25 instead of the 10/1.25? My opinion is the bores are already widened for inserts, so instead of wasting the money on them again just go with diff bolts, slightly larger in diam. New larger bit would clean up the already mangle inserts and bores for clean fresh threads. Did you do the block at home yourself? What type of bit did you use? Looks killer...hope this one turns out just like yours. See its like I have to start fresh because these bores were already drilled and Im sure they did a hack job and went to deep. With the redrilling for fresh threads I can actually stop at the stock bore length again and clean there mess up. Then I can get max clamp load from this set up. Whatcha think?

 

I think you should shop around for another block.... (unmolested) and get the peace of mind knowing that theres no question of whether or not the head bolts are gonna hold. Just my opinion though... get ya some arp bolts to lock it down too..

 

timeserts get the job done, that is if you know what you're doing. If you are not technically incline to handle the job call around and get a quote on how much it will cost to get it done, than compare the cost of replacing the block with a "known" running block "installed".

Anybody can tell you that the job is easy and what not, but it comes down to if you are capable of following a HELMS manual, not the HAYNES manual, to replace the head onto the "known" good running block.

 

And just to add, I would use ARP STUDS over using bolts into the timesert.

Id rather have the stud screwed in and hand tightened on a repaired thread then having a bolt torqued down into a thread.

Like I said. Bel Metric sells timeserts for Honda blocks.

 

I agree.. but still a cheaper fix then replacing a block. I would lok tite everything.

 

sorry for the post in this thread but i need an answer the soonest. I bought a new set of ARP b16a head studs for my b16a1 engine. I I followed the instructions i cleaned the threads i put lube in the threads of studs both sides then hand tight with allen key after put the head and the washers and nuts since again i put the lube them. then torqued at 30 ft/lb with the correct sequential tightening all ok here but when i went to the next step 60 lb/ft i torqued the first nut takes a small turn and after nothing, the socket turn single also the same in the second nut. what's happen here? please help

 

Dude........Please exlain better. Is it still spinning? I"m sure we told you to get timeserts in there.