OK so I've got a B16A thats in need of a rebuild. it burns to much oil, has bad compression and metal bits in the oil and I hate driving like miss daisy in my jeep as well as all the gas that burns. My 95 Talon tsi just got totaled and I felt like changing things up to the honda game. I will be on a fairly tight $1300 total budget for parts to get this thing running reliably but rebuilding to stock is just no fun. and doing motor swaps an all the extras needed for that isnt in the cards for getting this together in the next 3 weeks since the baby momma needs a ride too.
steup currently:
B16A
Y80 trans
chipped P28

What Im looking into replacing is the Pistons,rings, Rods, valves and valve springs. along with all the hoses and fluids. I've got a hook up at a buddys machine shop to help with whatever is needed for the block and head...he owes me $ so that will take off some of the burden for getting the block hot tanked and re honed.

So I was looking at these.
Nippon Racing CTR style pistons 81.5mm $150 (although im not to sure on the fitment.....if it requires significant work then ill just settle for their GSR style)
Eagle H beam rods $350 (mostly for future upgrade ability.....hopefully ill go boosted next summer)
Super Tech flat valves $215( dont wanna go to high comp if I get those CTR pistons)
Super Tech Springs& retainers $285.
New head gasket and seals bearings. $250

I figure this all should round out the immediate need for the car to get running right and hopefully running better.

Any helpful input on the parts working or not is welcomed, I think I did enough research into all this being doable but am looking here for some help.

 

Yeah... help. You'll just get told to get rid of the B16 altogether and get something with more capability of torque... Its not really "help" that will be given to you, but more of a different logic.

Wait for it.....wait for it.....

 

Save $300 and go with OEM rods and ARP rodbolts. I'd say dont worry about the valves and put that money towards cams. What cams are you going with?

 

I'd just suggest a B20 long block w/ the B16 head/tranny for less that 1000 bucks it will run a B16 into the corner. Plus he has all the potential to grow later on. Just throw some ARP rod bolts and head studs in and call it a day. It will cost less than 1300 and you will have a killer base to build on.

B20 longblock can be found $500-700
Vtec conversion kit $150-200
Rod bolts and head studs-$200
Get a basemap tune for free from someone

IMO cheaper that rebuilding the B16 and you will have almost no down time...and like I said room to grow.

I did a B16 rebuild 8-10 years back now and it cost me roughly 1500 when all was said and done. (pistons, rings machine work, new gaskets/parts etc)

 

Yeah I'd love to get a B18B/C block or a B20Z but have yet to find one at a reasonable price In my area, $700 for a full B18B1 short block is the best Ive come across an someone already scooped that up, So the setup above is just me making the best of what I have my hands on, If I found a block an someone to buy mine quickly enough I would go for it but the chances are slim for me at this time I wont start ordering in parts until next week so things could change...fingers crossed. As far as machine work my buddy who owes me about $500 works at one and will do all the machine work to pay me back so I dont have to worry about that.

anyways for the time being I was planning to stick with the stock cams at this time.

my biggest concern is if there will be valve clearance issues with those Nippon CTR style pistons?

 

Get a B20 longblock from a JDM importer. You can get the lower compression models for ~$500. If there are no importers local to you, just order it from HMO and have it shipped.

 

And you can probably sell your B16 longblock for close to $1000....

So you get $500 AND you will go faster with the B20. AND B20's are MUCH better DD engines. You dont have to wring it out to get to the power

 

I would keep the VTEC head and just sell the shortblock B16.

 

^this.

and all b16s threads get the same answer..."got 1.8L/2.0L"

 

Hah yeah I would consider it if I had more time. this isnt so much a dream build as it is a necessity build for now. plus all that "B20 would make it a better DD since I wouldnt need to rev the engine as much" is pretty moot since the GSR trans guarantees its getting revved out to 3400RPM+ @70mph during my commute. Anyways Ill see what is doable over the next week as far as finding a B18 or B20 goes.
Anyone have an answer to my Nippon CTR piston question? Ive read that putting in actual PCT's requires the rods to be shaved for valves to be clear but would that stay true with the Nippons?

 

The Nippon CTR pistons in a B16 are plug and play if I remember correctly. No special machining necessary. I could be wrong though, I'm sure someone else cam follow up

 

As far as cams I have no idea at this time considering that I need to get this rolling first, also depends on if I decide to go boosted which I wont even consider until I do something with this GSR trans....gear ratios are way to close for a useable boosted DD IMO

 

and There it is...haha. I didn't have to wait long.

 

You know us too well. In today's market it's CHEAPER to go this route and to have a better DD motor. just trying to give the fella some direction to look. I did a full B16 rebuild back in the day, yea I learned a lot and it was a fun motor, but knowing what I know now...I would have saved myself the 1500-2000 bucks and gone this route for half the cost.

 

Hah yeah its not a bad option and when you really think about it "No Replacement for displacement" but I feel if I were gonna really go that route then all out on a K24/k20 would be the way .But that's neither here nor there for me at this time with this budget. Im still hunting for a B18/B20

Still anyone know if Nippon CTR style pistons clear the valves no issue or is there a need for rods to be shaved or thicker head gasket to make em work?

 

Hehe. Falling for the ole' "longer gears odd better for boost" myth, eh? You'll learn in time about how that thinking has its fallacies.

He'll, I've gone UP in final drive for better acceleration..

 

ahh not so much as just cruising at highway speeds...some parts around here your doing 85 in the slow lane.....just 5th is the issue since the engine would be hovering around 4300RPM at 80.....I like the closer ratio in the lower gears especially when pushing it but if i were to be on boost I'd need to get a longer fith to keep things civil and save a little gas haha

 

To answer your first question without debating about displacement, I'd go for this for a B16 daily driven:

- ARP bolts on stock rods
- P73 JDM pistons (lighter than PCT and flatter head)
- Honda bearing corresponding to your block / crank / rods markings
- New ITR oil pump
- Buddy club spec 3+ cams
- Buddy club valvetrain
- Buddy club HG
- Keep the 60mm TB and P30 IM they offer better low end than the ITR IM

Roughly it is something with 11 CR and more low end torque than stock.

Optionaly you may install RDX injectors to benefit from the better spray pattern but they will be very big for the setup.

Finally don't forget the tune.

 

I have to disagree with one aspect of the list above ^^^. P73 pistons will lower the compression ratio compared to the pr3/p30 pistons. Unless he decked the block and head and used a 2 layer head gasket and hi comp valves, then I can see a P73 piston bringing the compression to around 11.0:1.

If I were to build a b16 I would look into the PCT CTR pistons and some head work. Yes it's still a 1.6L but it can still be fun, with the right gearing.

And as Shodan said... Don't get too caught up in longer gearing being better for boost. Most turbo guys I know ( including myself ) prefer GSR ratios over the LS ratios.

 

Everything stock, USDM PR3 pistons give you 10.3 CR and JDM P30 give you a 10.5 CR.

I'm speaking about the JDM P73 not the USDM one. With the USDM I agree with you, he will have a CR of 10.04. The JDM has a more important dome which brings the CR to 10.5 as the P30 JDM.

However the P73 is a bit heavier but not as much as the PCT and compared to the P30 it benefits from an anti friction coating.

Whatever he chooses between the P30 or the JDM P73 both are good for a budget build and each one has advantages.

I personaly don't like the PCT because of its weight and the massive dome but they work. And also, if I had to install PCT I would install a cam slightly larger to take advantage of the important CR they give (roughly more than 12).

 

Guys, he has a small budget, and needs a reliable daily. I dont know why ANYONE would suggest a high comp, cammed out B16 for that...

The best thing to do.is to sell the B16 longblock for as much as you can (probably ~$1k), and then buy a JDM B20 for $5-700. He will come out money ahead, and have a much more dependable and drivable daily motor. There really is no better option.

 

Rebuild the B16 and boost it.

 

 

That's like that where we are. We found that there was no change in fuel mileage when at speed with little load on the car. I went from an LS 5th to a GSR. Running a b16 transmission with even a higher final drive..

Problem was passing anyone used more gas than the lower gearing..I went through this already..

 

hear me out... everyone is praising to go 1.8/2.0 block with high compression pistons and **** right? This guy doesn't sound like he wants to STAY all motor. I'm basing my statement off of what he said not just out of my own ignorance.

Lets really break it down even further... if money is an issue then going fast isn't the cheapest solution at all. Do all of you guys think once you have a built engine thats it? What happens when he drives it? He'll need a heavier clutch, better axles, slicks, a real tune, injectors, the right set of cams, an exhaust system to match, etc. etc...

I don't see why shooting for the sky in one direction is any different than the other.