is $3500 a steal for a 94 accrod with 130K miles? or is this price normal?

 

do it damnit...wait...what kinda condition is it in?

 

i am not sure. i am going to look on it tomorrow. i am hopeing that it is good condition, but i am not sure how honest that guy is, beacuse i went to look on another car that he had last week, and he wrote in the ad that it was in excellent mechanical condition but when i went, the engine a knocking sounds, and he was telling me that the lifters needed adjusting. i also see that he works for a dealership, but he is selling the cars in the local trader as well, so i know that he is an expert at car sales.

What are some of the things i should look for when i am inspecting the car?

has anyone found an accord thats bad at 130k miles as yet? i want to know, beacuase i am hoping that he is not tricking me. i know that hondas are the best and last the longest i had an integra before, but i was in a wreck anyway, that's a long story

 

i got mine for 5500 so i would say that it is a good deal my had a few less miles on it tho. as far as accually buying it goes yo defrinatly want to make sure that it is in proper working order. make sure that the engine runs smoothly and that everything is properly aligned. you want as few echanical defects as possible, because you definatly dont want to spend more money making it run properly than you accually spend on the car

 

i was wondering, because i see the Kelly blue book value of a 94 accord DX with 130K miles in good condition is $3,700

 

He's selling cars he's bought on the side. When i dealt Acura's, the older pro's would buy cars on the sly...that were suppose to be traded in. They had to be extremeley careful about how they did it though b/k the dealership obviosuly wants a good trade in to make a wad of cash on. It's something you could be fired over. I remember my mentor @ Acura got a 94 Legend coupe many years ago in xlnt mech./visual condition for $3500. I still remember -I- was offered an integra on the sly by my mentor for $4000 "the day of - RIGHT NOW - get your money right now--nownownownow" which i turned down (automatic) from someone who he was selling a new car to (was a trade in). It was soooo cherry...anyway....that car i turned down at $4k sold three days later on our used lot for $7,999.

This guy probably got the car for $1000 from whoever "traded it in" and he's looking to turn it around for a nice $2500 profit. Pricing it slightly under blue-book is the hook. It might be a good car...who knows...but that's a good chance how he's getting them. IF...and only IF this guy is a new-car sales dude....there's a good chance the cars he's getting are in fair shape. People he's hustling who are buying new cars usually afforded ($) to take car of their previous cars mechanically. Honestly...many-many variables....its a crap shoot.

Any car is only as good as its maintinence regardless of "Honda" or not. If it's oil was changed only 4 times in 130k...then...you'd be fucked. Try to buy the best used car you can. Or make friends with a good mechanic. Get it checked out if you really don't know how to check a car...PAY FOR IT.




[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 10:39 PM 10/31/2002]

 

Check The Windows (Fails On 4th Gens Chronically, Some 5th Gens), Check The CV Joints (Due To Fail @ Varying Points Depending On Car's Use), Check The Timing Belt (Due To Fail @ 80-90k), Check The VIN History, Look Behind Trunk Panels For Wrinkled Metal Or Bondo Work, Check The Engine Bay For Oil Spray, Take Off The Oil Cap And Get Some Oil On Your Finger, If It' Smells Like *** Or Is Black, It's An Indicator Of How Often They Maintained The Motor, Find Out About The Fuel Pump (Due To Fail @ 100-110k), Pull Off Door Sill & Pull The Carpet Back Some To See If The Paint Matchs Up, If Different Colors Find Out Why, Check Glass For Holes, Drive Car, While Driving Listen For Noises, I.E. Motor Knock, Shocks, Etc.. Put The Car Into A Hard Left & Hard Right To Check For CV Joints.

I've Done This A Few Times Hope It Helps!

 

get a soft magnet to test the bondo sh_t.
test drive it when it's cold so all the broken sh_t will show up.
listen to the car when you driving on local.
test the abs.
pull out the dash and see if he/she have take out the abs/cel or srs air bags bulbs or not.

 

bring couple bottles of water to test the sun roof, trunk and other place where water leak can be a problem. defroster thing.
leave it on for like 5 min or so to see if the fans or any ideal problems.
and never pick up or check out car at night or indoor.




[Modified by iam7head, 3:19 AM 11/3/2002]