So after months of researching I've finally settled on a low budget D16 rebuild.
The amount of knowledge and information here is amazing.


I have a Y8 in my 00 EX coupe that spun a bearing, no knocking tho.
Just looking for a little boost. Keeping it OBD2 for future emissions.

I think this is pretty good, nothing to crazy and expensive or unneeded, and a couple mods to get me going.

*** Y7 BLOCK ***

Bored & Honed - By Shop
King STD Main & Rod Bearings - Already Have
Slightly Chamfered Main Bearings - By Me
Ported Oil Pump - By Me
PM6 NPR Pistons & Rings, 75 or 75.5mm - Ebay
OEM Head Gasket - 4 Sure
Stock Rod & Head Bolts - >Redline


*** Y8 HEAD ***

Mild Port & Polish - By Me
Delta 260 or 272 Cam - Undecided ATM
Y8 Intake Springs - Already have
Supertech Valve Stem Seals - Ebay


*** EXTRAS ***

DIY Air Box Mod Or AEM SRI - No CAI, Shitty Roads
Ebay/DC 4-2-1 Header - Torque
Ebay 2.25 Mandrel or 2.5 Crush Bent Catback - Undecided
Ebay Adj FPR - For Tuning
Glowshift Oil Sandwich Adapter - Already Have
Ebay Oil Pressure Gauge - Already Have
Ebay Rebuild Gasket Kit - Good Enough?

I'm getting a 10.34 CR with the STD Pistons and 10.45 with the oversize ones.
From what I know, that's safe on the stock P2P Ecu. My worry about the CR is that if I have to get my block decked or head milled, the lowest I can do it is .005 on each side right? That would bring up my CR to 10.6 & 10.71.. Still okay? I have 93 pump gas here in S.A.

I really want the added displacement from the 75.5mm piston

If this setup is too risky, I guess I'll have to stick with the Y pistons on Ebay, and have them 75.5mm, but they list the same piston for all Y models!! Are they Y7 Or Y8?http://www.ebay.com/itm/220882138229...84.m1423.l2649 Grrrr.

Anyways, what do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Would you take anything out or change??

I will get a chipped P28 and MTX-L wideband or have it dyno tuned later, but right now and when the time comes it will have to pass emissions.
Keeping this car for a while..

 

eBay gasket kits are a gamble... do you have a link to a particular kit you're looking at?

Good luck on the build!

 

That is a lot of money being spent with not much gain...

You can get more power and more reliability for the same cost, or cheaper, and less work.

 

I'm not trying to be negative or demeaning in any way, just realistic so you aren't disappointed. See my notes in BOLD.

 

I agree with this^^^
Do you have any experience with a dremel or lathe??

Even if you do, hand porting a head is a diffierent story. It's an art.
strongly recommend getting it done by a professional.

Don't skimp with the ebay gaskets, OEM or even felpro from autozone will work fine

 

Some good points being raised already.

Forget about the 260 cam . . . its barely anything over stock.

 

If you go with Ferrea valves, you want the 6000 series, the 5000 series.... has issues.

 

Just curious, what issues exactly?

 

This is the kit I've been looking at, its got alot sold ( I know that really doesn't mean much, but it seems like a good supplier and its not the cheapest.)


How? And please don't tell me swap or boost...


I'm just going to lightly port and polish the head, take away casting marks, and clean out all the carbon deposits. Polish the exhaust side only.

Should I just stick with the Y7 Piston and mill instead?

 

You do realize you can get a running LS or B20 long block w/ tranny for $1000 or less (which you will easily spend on the single w/ all the stuff you have planned, and it will destroy the single in all aspects in your chassis? The extra displacement for daily driving is hands down the biggest plus side. I'm just trying to voice and educated opinion. I've been in your shoes before, and boy was I glad someone sat me down and started talking numbers with me.

Your car. your money. Do what makes you happy. I just don't want to see you disappointed when you spend 1000 bucks and hop in to drive it and feel no gains. ls/b20=guaranteed gains.

I'm leaving at that

 

Let's just say it's worth the $100 or so to get the 6000 series.

 

This

 

I'm sticking with the D16, I already have a spare block, I don't feel like sourcing a tranny and block to swap in, not that much of an import scene here in San Antonio.

I think that this setup is exactly what I'm looking for, a good boost to a DD. Upping the compression within a stock ecu, or I can try to tune it myself later. At least it will run on a P2P ECU. Performance parts geared toward torque, and cheap parts (pmg6, Delta 260)
Think I can run a 272 on it safely or is that to much cam for my compression?
I can always mill the head, I left me some room for that just in case i tune it myself and mill the head afterwards...

 

I agree that San Antonio import scene sucks
but what compression are you looking at

 

Whatever I can run on a stock P2P ECU, which I've read is 10.5 give or take. The PM6's will give me 10.3 or so. That way later on a can mill the head and get more out of it after I save up and either get a dyno tune or tune it myself, it's my first motor build so i kinda wanna leave myself some leway. I've read that the ecu will compensate for it. Dunno if a Delta 260 or 272 will be better, thinking 260 cuz it will be easier and less drastic. 272 might be to much cam for the CR. Dunno, can't find any info on CR and cam choices with the Delta. Your in S.A. too?

 

You are about to drop around $1k on a ~15% gain in power. Why not spend a little more and get a MUCH larger gain? And much more room for growth in the future?

 

I edited my original post, I'll be using stock valves and no micropolish.
It will be only about $500 for the rebuild, less if I keep my Y7 pistons and just mill the head. Thats the going price just for a block out here.

Because I get get 30whp out of this for very little penny, and while having a rebuilt motor.

 

It's still better, has 20% more lift and longer duration. Better idle than the 272 and more forgiving on the valvetrain, better to be under cam'd than over cam'd ? Thats still a 10-15% increase of hp over stock. For $80.

 

You'll be lucky to see 10whp. The highest D16 build I've ever seen was like 170-180whp and it was bored, stroked, 14:1, huge cam, custom header, custom intake, etc.

You are literally throwing your money away... but don't let guys on a forum dedicated to Honda performance tell you what to do, **** the world, you probably know best.

 

I once was on the same path as you, i have the seen the light of the dual cam!

 

Aw shucks, let the guy do what he wants. This is the (3rd?) thread we've hashed this out in?

I'm not gonna knock a SOHC N/A build. I would really like to do one myself sometime. I do have to agree that you probably won't see too too much of a performance increase though. But you know what? For $500, go for it. Even if you are disappointed, you will have a nice rebuild, and you will have learned a lot about your motor. It would be a great foundation for greater things, should you decide to stay in the SOHC game.

I say go for it

 

I meant 30 whp for the whole setup, 10 from i/h/e, 10 from the cam and 10 from the compression and port matching. I've seen the dynos. Tune with wide band, fpr, dizzy timing and reading plugs. That's a low number too. Better than a B16A/18B for alot less $$

 

Not sure I'm sold on 10hp from i/h/e. Unless you mean aftermarket intake manifold and not just a bolt on pipe lol

 

yup I live in SA to

 

We should make amazing builds and make the S.A. import scene