Room for Posi-tap connectors on ECU harness?
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From: Vancouver, WA
This is regarding my 1994 VX hatch (EH2) with the stock D15Z1 engine, wiring, and ECU.
I was going to pick up some Posi-Tap connectors to tap into my VSS and a fuel injector signal. I think some folks around here have used them (grumble?), but I've heard they're bulky. Is there enough room on the ECU harness to fish out the two wires I need?
I'd rather use the tap than splice and solder badly in a tight area, and the jumper harnesses are cost prohibitive. I'll likely pick up 12v constant and ground at the unused clock connector.
I have some Radio Shack "guillotine" connectors on hand, but they make me nervous.
Thanks!
I was going to pick up some Posi-Tap connectors to tap into my VSS and a fuel injector signal. I think some folks around here have used them (grumble?), but I've heard they're bulky. Is there enough room on the ECU harness to fish out the two wires I need?
I'd rather use the tap than splice and solder badly in a tight area, and the jumper harnesses are cost prohibitive. I'll likely pick up 12v constant and ground at the unused clock connector.
I have some Radio Shack "guillotine" connectors on hand, but they make me nervous.
Thanks!
Should be alright. Just space them apart. You don't have to connect them right there by the ecu plugs. Near it is fine. That will give you plenty of room. Posi-taps are my thing.
I used the **** out of those things when I had to wire up our cabs. Love them. The claw clamp things never really lasted more than a year, but those never gave me any problems.
If you want more space to use them, you could find a jumper harness that's OBD1 on both sides, rather than being an actual adapter harness. Basically, an extension harness.
If you want more space to use them, you could find a jumper harness that's OBD1 on both sides, rather than being an actual adapter harness. Basically, an extension harness.
longest project ever
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
learn to solder and heat shrink, it's not hard, get some extra wires and watch some tutorials on line, and practice, I hate any kind of connector that taps anything, connections aren't reliable, if you were local I would just do it for you, takes me a few minutes, but no one is near me out here
learn to solder and heat shrink, it's not hard, get some extra wires and watch some tutorials on line, and practice, I hate any kind of connector that taps anything, connections aren't reliable, if you were local I would just do it for you, takes me a few minutes, but no one is near me out here
I'll still solder when I can have a clear line of sight and plenty of room to work with, I've always soldered the main wires for the alarm and all sensors but if its the triggers to the parking light, door lock/unlock, trunk signal, basicly anything that requires me to tap into the circuit than thats where posi tap comes in.
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From: Vancouver, WA
Quick question... what gauge are the wires in the ECU harness? I'm seeing conflicting reports on the intertubes, and I didn't see it specified in the Helm's (possible I just didn't see it).
Appears to be 18, 20, or 22.
Appears to be 18, 20, or 22.
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From: Vancouver, WA
Just an update and closure... the Posi-Taps worked perfectly, and I highly recommend them now. I tapped the VSS and and injector wire near the ECU connector, and grabbed 12v constant and ground from my stereo.
The mpguino fired right up, giving me instant, trip and tank mpg data. 55.4mpg on the way to work this morning!
The mpguino fired right up, giving me instant, trip and tank mpg data. 55.4mpg on the way to work this morning!
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