Plan on replacing both drivers a passenger side cv axles I've watched a video on it but a civic just wanted to know if anyone has done this on a 98 accord v6? Or if its basically the same?

 

Not sure what year Civic, but 90-02 Accords all have roughly the same procedure.

Remove hubcaps(certain models need the lug nuts removed first)
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts, both sides.(some wheels will need to be removed to do this)
Set parking brake.
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up and place on jackstands.
Pop the inboard joints of the Passenger and Driver side axles out of transmission.
*If the axles don't readily break free, rotate the axles 180°, if no luck rotate 90°, and again 180° if the axle still does not pop out. The circlip can hang up at times*
Remove front wheels.
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove cotter pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Easy and painless way to separate the lower ball joint Write up w / pics
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it.
When installing new axles, leave plastic wrap on to help slide and protect the rubber boots through the axle fork. If new axles did not come wrapped in plastic, use a grocery or garbage bag.
Be careful of differential/axle seals. If you hit the seal with the axle the seal may be nicked or the garter spring may pop loose, this will cause a leak, requiring disassembly of the front end and installation of a new seal. If your seal is already wet/suspect, now would be the time to replace it.

With new axles installed work back up to reassemble the front end.
When the wheels are back on the ground, then torque the CV axle nut and stake it. Put hubcaps on and you are done.

 

Thanks. Doesn't seem too complicated then just might take me a couple since its my first time. Any idea what size the axle nut might be?

 

Do I need to grease up the part going into trans?

 

I think its 32mm, when you get your new axle, just take the nut off and check with the sockets at the parts store.

No grease. Axle goes into the transmission, just lube up the stepped machined edge where the axle seal rides with ATF.

 

Sure thing thanks for all the help mike

 

Idont have to drain atf to do this right?

 

no just becareful

 

Be careful of what??

 

No need to be careful about losing fluid. Just pop them out and push the new ones back in.

 

Okay finally finished up the drivers. Putting in the the axle it wouldn't be flat against the trans theres like a small gap ? It wouldn't go in any further? Also the passengers side axle will not come off iwas trying for an hour and half with no luck... Instead of the axle nut being punched in the notch it's punched in the threads.. ???

 

Sometimes the axle nuts are jammed on there pretty good. Try and unstake the nut as best you can, then hit it with a good impact. Itll rethread itself. If you cant get it out of the tranny, use a prybar, inbetween the axle and the transaxle. Also, f you cant get it to seat all the way...make sure the teeth are lined up, then get a long punch or even a socket extension...and pop it the rest of the way it, with a hammer.

 

You can use a prybar to pop it out. Wedge it against the tranny and gently pop it out. Dont bother trying to use a screwdriver.

Sit on the ground and kick it in. It will look like its slightly out, thats normal.

 

Don't have an impact but I'll ask around. As far is getting it into the trans it lined up and went in it just wouldn't fully seat up against trans.. Tried hittin with rubber mallet tried shoving pretty hard didnt wana rip the boots so just left it.?

 

I just posted just before you.

 

It looks like its slightly out iwas pushin it pretty hard ijust didnt wana damage it

 

I drove it around and it got rid of the clicking noise on turns but I'm still getting a light clunk on acceleration. Idnt see anything leaking?

 

It could be your lower control arm bushings as they get old and soft allowing the strut fork bolt to bang against it or the lower control arm frame bushings get soft, or your sway link bushings.

 

All my bushings look pretty old lol I guess after a while I'll slowly start replacing those. Could bad motor mounts cause it? Even ihear the clunk like right under my feet (drivers side) I feel like I can feel it ha

 

Yes, it's possible. You could try to get a good angle to see the rear mount and then get a jack with a wooden block and jack up the engine and see if that mount is cracked.

 

I'll give that a try thanks