I've tried everything I can think of and more. Just put my setup in my car, ls vtec turbo with precision 1000cc injectors with inline resistors. Running a p06 ecu converted to vtec with a basemap. Car was running but ran like ****. Started up, and went completely lean. After it was shut off it wouldn't start up again. Now it won't start whatsoever. I did do some welding on it but nothing major. I'm getting constant power to each injector via the yellow and black wire. The ecu isn't sending an injector pulse to my injectors as I've checked them all right at the harness where it plugs into the ecu while cranking. Things I've checked/changed at least once or twice:
Thermostat ground
Main relay
Ecu
Distributer
Fuse 24 and 31
Injector
Constant power to main relay and ecu
I am completely stumped, searched for two days now been over the while thing several times and can't seem to figure out what's wrong. Whatever tells the ecu to sent the pulse to the injectors or not to send the pulse has to be my problem. No knock sensor, no o2 except wideband, not running a ckf cause it's a obd1 ecu. Car is a 99 civic Canadian si(d16y8 factory). My daily driver and Im lost. Any help would be muchly appreciated

 

Also, when I did have it running, the tach wasn't working, and when I try to start it sometimes the spedometer jumps around

 

More information is needed.

CEL codes? Fuel pump prime? Spark at all plugs?

 

The ECU doesn't "send a pulse", it completes the circuit on the ground wire to allow the injector to pulse. You may have fried your injector drivers. Have you tried a known working ECU?

 

No cel's, fuel pump working fine, tons of spark. Swapped a good ecu with my chip into my car and the same thing happened.

 

Does the CEL work?

 

Yes it does. Lights up when key is in on position

 

Turn key off and unplug ECU connector A. Use a multimeter to test for continuity to body ground at pins A23 and A24.

 

Can you swap an ecu with out any type of modifications done to it? Take one from a known good running car and plug it in. Remove the rail and injectors as one unit and place a piece of rag/cardboard/paper towel underneath to collect any sprayed fuel. Crank the engine and inspect the spray pattern.

 

If those are the yellow/black wires the are one on too of the other in an obd2b harness, checked both to body ground. Getting tons of power

 

Injectors are precision 1000 peak and hold injectors. A regular ecu wouldn't make them spray would it?

 

 

These are obd2b pins? What will this tell me?

 

You have an OBD1 ECU so I posted the OBD1 pins. If those two pins are not grounded, the injectors won't work.

 

Low or high impedance?

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...ectors-530477/

 

Low. And you were right to check those pins. I put my multimeter on ohms and it isn't showing me anything at either of those pins

 

Peak/hold = low.

 

Okay, I'm dumb.

 

Touching one meter probe to A23 or A24 and the other meter probe to the metal frame under the dash?

 

Yep, that's exactly what I did

 

Are you sure you tested pins A23 and A24? If so, try grounding both pins to the metal frame under the dash and then check whether she fires up.

 

It's all good, really easy mistake to make. Gotta love it when people have two different names for the same thing.

 

That's the problem! My tach works now too. How do I pinpoint this bad boy?

 

If you can't locate the wire break or problem, then run new wires from pins A23 and A24 to the G101 ground located on the thermostat housing.

 

so both wires run straight to the thermostat housing? would it hurt to ground them in a better place?