I am working on a 1994 Civic EX with a D16Y8. I cannot remove the bolt with an impact, breaker bar with cheater pipe or pleading with it. I have been told it is a reverse thread bolt as well as been told it is a standard thread bolt. Which is it and how the hell can i break this free. I bought the tool to hold the pulley as well not the strap wrench. I also tried a little heat to break it free with not success. I really need to get it off to finish the job as the money from it goes to saving my house. Thank you in advance for advice and help.

 

It's not a reverse thread, but that motherfu#&er is on there and probably all galled up. Fine threads. Hard steel. High torque spec.

I've never had issues using a breaker bar and my enormous muscles. I'm 160lbs of pure pain.

Nowadays I just use my cordless Ingersoll Rand assault rifle (1100lbs-ft).

Use a breaker bar with an extension. Use a 1/2 breaker bar/ratchet to hold the pulley tool against a chassis member. Be a man. It'll move.

Or take the splash guard off and drive it to a shop where they have powerful impacts. Turn the wheel and pay the dude a couple bucks. Zap zap have him loosen it. Then have him tighten it back up. Go home and it should come off for you.

 

Who ever said that it's reverse thread is a idiot, punch them in the face for giving false information. On the other hand these crank bolts are always pain on these Hondas, try heating it up then try to tighten it the losening the bolt it's always works for me

 

I recently had to do this. Assuming you're using a couple of extensions to get the breaker bar outside of the fender area. Did you support the breaker bar end with a jack stand so you can get better leverage? I had to use a 3' section of pipe to extend the end of the breaker bar, and put all my weight on it, but it popped loose.

It's a "lefty-loosey" bolt.

Good luck! We all feel your pain.

 

Big *** impact, or a bigass **** and a breaker bar/cheater pipe.

Those bastards are on there!

 

It'll eventually come loose. I did natemoore's tactic with the jack stand supporting the extension and then just put all your weight on it for a couple seconds and then let off. Keep doing that a couple times and it'll bust loose. Took me about four tries of putting all my weight on it and then it busted loose like a bat outta hell! Good luck.

 

I find that soaking the bolt in PB Blaster overnight also helps the removal.

 

do all the D series need the special holding tool? if there is a big hex on the pulley ,you get the tool, sold in a lot of places, locks the pulley in place so you can use a big socket and breaker bar to bust it loose
check Honda for the new bolt tightening sequence, it came with my new bolt for my 98, they changed the way it's done to fix this issue.

 

 

even with the tool, and a five foot breaker bar, had to jump on the bar with all my weight to break it, broke a good US made proto socket in the process

 

The OP has a Y8, so yes on the hex tool.

 

The new Honda bolt I got showed to torque it to a specific amount, run the engine for a specified amount of time, then lock the pulley again and torque it to final specs by degrees, I wish I had saved that paper, without the tool it's nearly impossible to remove that bolt

 

I had to use an impact extension to get it outside of the firewall, then support the end of the extension with a jack, then slide a piece of FENCE (like 6ft long) over the breaker bar and finally broke it loose that way. Make sure to use that Honda holding tool... and wedge it against the ground using another breaker bar / 1/2" ratchet. It'll bust loose. Counter-clockwise, just like everyone else is saying. The problem is the engine rotates that way too, so it's perpetually tightening itself as the engine runs...

 

tool was a little expensive, I bought one, used it once, then sold the car, ended up selling the tool and getting part of my money back, they are for sale used all the time

 

how much did you pay for it? It may be more cost effective just to buy a half inch impact gun, with how useful they are. Plus you get to play NASCAR pit crew when you rotate your tires

 

it's not a matter of having an impact gun, the engine rotates in the direction of removal, so it will continue to spin, the reason the tool was invented, was because on this car, the bolt becomes so tight, it's nearly impossible to remove. Honda also has new specs for tightening the bolt, and you will require the pulley to be locked to do this, I dont think I paid over 50 bucks for mine, even with an impact, you should still use it to hold the pulley.

 

When I ordered a new bolt from Honda, and you should get one, it's not that expensive, the bolt was also redesigned because of the issues people were having with it. Mine came with very specific instructions on torquing the bolt, and tightening in steps, there is probably a service bulletin on this

 

this is pretty cool atleast. I ordered a fuel filter and never got the crush washers, I wouldn't be surprised if I bought the bolt and didnt get the attachment thing lol.

 

Only when the engine is undergoing positive angular acceleration in the CCW direction. When it is undergoing negative angular acceleration, i.e., the engine is decreasing rpms, the momentum of the bolt acts as a "loosening" force, since the mass of the bolt wants to remain at the same rotational speed, while the crank pulley is slowing down.

 

I used a heavy duty rattle gun on my 2004 Honda CRv, that didn't work so I went to standing on a 3ft breaker bar which also didn't work, so I out and pay $500 for a 1700NM rattle gun to only have the impact socket round the bolt head. The impact socket was a weighted 17mm which took no damage and still fits very snug on any 17mm bolt. I don't think a soft metal bolt can be so tight, it is more likely some sort of Loctite is used from the factory!

 

Crazy. I take it the bolt is still on and you're no further ahead? I didn't think I'd ever encounter a seized bolt that an air gun couldn't take care of but I sure did when I worked on a 2000 Civic last summer. I then tried the jackstand, Honda retention and loooooong extension method, and I've never heard such a loud crack when I broke it loose as I did then. I was sure I broke something else, like a tool or worse (internals of the motor), but it was the bolt breaking loose. I can't fathom how seized on there it was.

 

Bolt is now out, I had to start with small drill bits and work my way up until the head popped off the bolt. After that back to drilling nearly the whole thread out (but not quite) and used very large Easy Out Bolt Extractor. I asked the car wreckers if they had a pully and bolt I could buy and they said yes. 2 days later I called them and he said "sorry mate, we cannot get it off and the worker thinks he stuffed the crank on that engine". It's so hard to believe a bolt that size can be so tight! It's like dealing with a welded in bolt.

 

That's additionally incredible because of how hard that bolt is. As it, metal hardness. Sorry mate, that was a looootttttt of work. Glad to hear it came out though.

 

Yeah thanks, I was very happy to see it move!

 

No doubt. I probably had a 6 feet of bar + extension, possibly more. I was well out ahead of the bumper of the car.