making this short and sweet. installed pwm components and they will work for a day. change out the large transistor and it will work for a day. the ecu is not pulsing, it is sending solid ground signal to the valve. I put a 12v light inplace of the valve and turned the key on, they light is 100% bright, meaning 100%boost/ duty cycle. the light should be off until the ecu sees the activation boost level. tried 2 ecus. nothing is shorted. wired correctly. thinking I got 2 bad ecus or a bad s300 hondata unit. I do not understand why its doing this. has anyone experienced this?? wtf 99 civic ex. p28 x2 tries.

 

data logged some pulls. the ecu is saying the correct duty cycle, but physically it is sending solid 100% duty.

 

You gave us nothing to actually help you. The calibration file, data logs, and especially the part number of the MAC valve being used would be of great importance.

 

I don't know how to post that stuff. it not in the calibration file or the tune. its something in the ecu. not to get cocky but im quite aware of how it is suppose to work and tune it. the mac valve is 35-aaa-ddba-1ba. ill open smanager and shut off boost control and it still goes to full boost haha

 

tried 2 valves lol

 

Measure the current going to valve with a multimeter. The mac valve should have a 5.4W coil, so you should not measure much more then 0.45A or 450mA. (5.4W/12V=0.45) Its an open collector type output so the only way to burn out the transistor is draw too much current. Also double check the values of all the components you installed, resistors and the other smaller transistor. Check to make you installed that diode in the correct direction.

 

Ok. This gives me an excuse to pick up a dc meter lol. I will try that. Seems as if resolder the joints it will try to work (my bulb will flash) I'm using rosin solder with flux?

 

The reason why a lot of people aren't responding is because these issues come up often and 95% of the time it is because people wired it wrong or just plain can't solder. We see it time and time again people say they know what they are doing but have no clue. Since you won't post the files to rule out software setup issues having where and how everything is connected. You still are being very vague with things. What Hondata board are you using? What version of SManager? What outputs for connections? Did you install a diode? Many things going on here...

 

Lol I'm using the newest version of smanager. Not sure on the hardware. It's about 3 years old. I've chipped, replaced capacitors, converted to vtec. Tons of ecus. Using a11 and 12v switched fused. I went down the road and recorded what duty cycle equals what boost. It's not the tune but ill post it tonight

 

Ya I put a diode in.

 

What's the proper way to solder ? I have a desolder gun. Suck the old **** out. Put some flux in there, put some solder on your regular iron. Give it a little touch and the flux sucks the solder down in. Or am I missing something

 

Ok installe new transistors. Measured current. .2ma. I noticed when I unplug and replug my solenoid, my smanager disconnects then reconnects to ecu. Like your unplugging the USB. That was .2ma at 77% duty. 12.1volt

 

Hondata recommends the highest draw of 3 amps. The SManager disconnecting and reconnecting may be odd but I am not dumb enough to try it with the key forward. Without us having the calibration file do this - try everything suggested in this thread and report back:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...0586&styleid=2

There are so many variables it is not even funny. It is either the settings are wrong or the Hondata unit has failed. If it is a S300 V1 there is a high chance it randomly took a ****. You still haven't said which version you have. It definitely isn't V3 and probably isn't V2, but you keep saying everything is rick and you know what you are doing but keep leaving out the basics. It makes it hard to help you.

 

have you read my o.p.? I did exactly what they are talking about. im not asking for help as to why my pwm boost control is not working. I know why its not working. im asking why is it doing this. I already figured out whats going on. my ecu will send a pulse ground signal for about a day then the large transistor shorts out and sends a SOLID GROUND SIGNAL TO THE SOLENOID. im asking why It keeps doing this or if anyone else has had this problem. why post my calibration if I had the car running how it should, broke, tested it, and figured out that its the circuitry not the calibration. I have a mac valve. s300 version one. smanger 2.3.3.0. im simply asking what the cause of these transistors going bad would be. theres not that many variables. its 2 wires, some simple plumbing and software set up. which I verified multiple times are correct. I put new transistors in my ecu. go down the road. my boost by gear works awesome. come back a day or so later and go down the road, the car goes to boost cut which is 27 psi.....full boost 100% duty cycle, or SOLID GROUND, no pulse. I do the light trick. simply turn the key on and replace my valve with a 12v light. when I bbg IS working, key on engine off, the light IS OFF. when bbg is GOING TO FULL BOOST IN EVERY GEAR NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO TO SETTINGS OR EVEN DISABLE PWM, THE LIGHT IS BRIGHT. this is how I know what it is. im simply asking why its doing this. im not a fool. check yourself

 

there should be no ground signal until the ecu sees boost. hense the activation point. it is sending 100% duty ground what ever you want to call it no matter what

 

im aware of how this **** works dude but im no electronics freak.

 

now do you feel stupid mr smartguy knows everything

 

Not at all. You are getting so much help it must be overwhelming for you. It is OK that you don't understand what is going on. I don't have anymore time to dedicate to your ignorance. I hope you find the cause of your despair. It will be OK; you will get there guy. Good luck.

 

there should be a check box you can mark to allow the use of a Normally Open (NO) or a Normally Closed (NC) boost valve. those Mac solenoids should be Normally closed. In neptune, we have a box we have to check for normally closed solenoids.

 

98vtec took the words out of my mouth. However when he turns off boost ctrl it still spikes... Try another s300 that works... That's what normally narrows things down for me.

Good luck Cummins...

 

whatever dude. ya I have normally closed checked. when I have the car idling I can blow right through the valve lol. activation point is at 8 psi. so it def shouldn't be sending any signal. prob just gonna buy a new s300 unit. thanks guys.. no thanks to hondamastersuperstar

 

have you tried unchecking NC for ***** and giggles?

 

There are no settings in s300 that would cause the transistor to burn out it should be able to supply current to that solenoid forever, that MJE3055 in use can supply a max of 10A!!

 

With the key out of the ignition is there voltage at the boost control solenoid (ground multimeter at any ground point in the engine bay)?

 

I have 12v power wired from one of those accessory power supply male spade terminal things in the fuse box under the dash. the one far most right. it only has power with key on. I have my gauge lights wired to the same one also. I didn't check with a meter but I would imagine, no there is no power going to it with the key off and out of the ignition. but ill check that. I just pulled new wire and im going to pick a new location for my 12v power supply to the solenoid. what do people usually wire It to?