Hey Guys

So since ive installed my b16b swap it runs on my a/f gauge in the 17s. You can deff smell that it is running way to damn rich. I don't have anything seriously done to the engine as I wanted to keep this a solid daily drive. The car is a 99 Civic Ex Coupe.
My build:

B16B W/ITR Trans & CTR ECU

Skunk2 Alpha Headers, Apexi Ws2 Exhaust, Whale ***** intake, BlackWorks Test pipe

Please don't tell me to do research as for everything I have researched I have replaced and followed and im still left with the same outcome. No I am not throwing any CEL lights either.

What I have done so far:

New OEM engine coolant temp sensor
New OEM Thermostat
New TPS sensor calibrated perfect
NEW OEM IAT sensor
NEW Bosch o2 sensor
-Had Injectors flow benched tested and all new OEM seals
-Timed the ignition correctly with timing light (checked numerous times)
-Switched fuel pumps tried oem, aftermarket oem and walboro all run the exact same.
-New OEM fuel pressure regulator.. also tried with adjustable B&M
-New Golden Eagle fuel rail
-New Russel braided fuel line with all new crush washers
-The fuel system does not leak if you shut the car off it takes a very long time for PSI to go down.


PLEASE if you have any suggestions or anything that you think im doing wrong here feel free to chime in. Im at a loss for words with this car anymore and im sick of dumping money into it.

 

17's is beyond dangerously lean...

What wideband are you using?

 

Aem Uego..

I notice if I crank my fuel pressure up to 60 at idle I will run in the high 15s but that still doesnt seem right too me.

 

17:1 is LEAN, not rich. Lean enough to cause misfires. Sounds like you need to get a proper tune, that stock ECU isn't cutting it. Sounds like the CTR ecu is set up for slightly larger injectors

 

Sorry i got the two crossed.. i was told different which is why im here to clear things up. Im running the stock ctr ecu with the ctr injectors that came with the engine. By turning up the fuel pressure i can get it down to low 15s. Im thinking about swapping the walboro back in and turning up the fuel pressure. Will this cause any damage??? or for any reason be bad for the engine.

 

Could it be the ECU?? Could there be a way of testing it?? or just pretty much have to swap it for another one

 

Just get it chipped and professionally tuned, best way to do it. Otherwise you're just going to be guessing about what ECU to use, and it won't match the engine properly

 

Naw.. I actually have 0 interest in getting a tune esp for a swap that has little to nothing done to it. In ohio the only places to get a tune you are asking for worse problem. My previous build never made it home from the most reputable "tuning" shop in ohio. I will never do that to myself again.. Anybody else have any information???

 

lol ok bud, you're on your own then. Either your injectors are wrong for the ECU, or the ECU isn't what it's supposed to be. On a MAP-based system, the main fuel modifier is vacuum, followed by coolant temp and then intake temp. Primary o2 sensor will play into it only in closed loop (@ operating temp, and not WOT)

 

Wasn't trying to come off as a dick just had no other way to explain it haha do you know of any good basemap tuners that are trust worthy?? its not about the money like I said there is just nothing reliable around here. I heard phearable is pretty reliable but then again its just somebodys guess trying to run my car.

 

No. All B series injectors are the same.

Where did you get the swap from? I have a bone stock PCT ecu that I am willing to let you try. It ran my stock motor....well, like a stock motor.

You can smell odor, but the car is running lean. You're positive there are no leaks?

Is it also possible that your AFR gauge is giving incorrect readings? How do the plugs look?

 

cracks on the header, or any other kind of leaks can cause the UEGO to read lean at idle. does the car idle fine? .. ( popping noises, high/low .. etc)

i agree with clean rice, the Spark plugs will tell you everything you need to know. other than that, other possibility has also been stated .. which is incorrect ECU.

sorry to say, but the safest thing to do, is to tune it. i wouldnt trust a basemap either...

even a bone stock motor can benefit from a tune...

 

I'm curious, aside from the AEM wideband telling you its lean, is the car running like crap as you drive it around? So lets say you put your fuel regulator to 43psi (thats stock by the way) and drive the car around, does it break up or run like crap?

perhaps just your gauge is not correct (the Bosch UEGO sensor goes bad all the time) and your car is running perfectly fine? and you're worried for no reason?

just saying...

 

A stock ecu with boltons of course it's gonna run lean with sk2 headers, test pipe n exhaust any mod that increases airflow in the engine will cause lean conditions, cheap way to correct this is to turn up fuel pressure, the right way to correct this is to get a tune
I've ordered a basemap from pherable and it was very close according to my af guage just had to correct af ratio with my vafc controller

 

Back with a final update..

After pulling my hair out for a week and spending money that was not needed i finally have the car running where it should be. CleanRice made a point about me smelling fuel so i went and backtracked my most recent work. Pulled the fuel pump out and put another B-SERIES fuel pump in and noticed i had a clamp slightly loose on the hose to the fuel pump. Not enough to drop pressure rapidly but im thinking enough to give off some smell. I also checked for vacum leaks i got a funny idle hitting my bottom pcv valve hose with starting fluid. So i replaced it with an oem hose and noticed the pcv valve i had in there from advanced autoparts was larger then the oem one i had pulled out so back to the dealer for a oem pcv valve. I put my adjustable FPR on and put the fuel pressure at 47 WOT. Reset the ecu and BAMMMMM the car was idling perfect no bouncing idle and was chiling at 14.6 -14.7 on my UEGO.

 

Good work man

 

just some FYI:

increasing fuel pressure does no always mean the mixture will get richer. Maybe in one or more portions of the map but it is not a linear solution. raising fuel pressure can/will increase fuel atomization which helps fuel burn and can result in a leaner mixture.

I had done this often in the past when a customer got tuned and the fuel map was really wavy. increase in pressure helped smooth the maps out. richer in some places, leaner in the others to balance everything out. This also helps with fuel mileage.