Hi, im new to the honda scene..

I recently swap a d16z6 into my ej1 dx..

Motor, head all is new rebuilt.

got my dizzy from
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131202718344...84.m1439.l2649

ngk plugs, new wires basically everything is new.. The only thing i bought used was the vtec solenoid.

First the car started.. let it idle for 5 min and suddenly shut off..

It sounded like it got stuck with something so i opened the valve cover to see if the cam shaft was turning and it did..

Checked all the ground cables and all of them are cleaned..

ECU was running fine while idleing P28 stock..

At the moment it cranks, i got fuel pressure cuz i can smell it but there is no spark..

Im running out of ideas and i went thru more than 20 threads with similar issues..

Im considering my ICM but since the dizzy is new i dont know..

Im getting voltage into the dizzy wires..

Any input ill really appreciated

thanks

Stan

 

Does it throw a CEL?

Could be a short in the ECU to the Dizzy, my guess would be check the ECU first if it's throwing a CEL.. Do all your cluster lights light up when you insert the key into the acc position..??

 

sounds simple but double check your firing order for the spark plug wires

 

I don't think he's getting spark at all according to his OP..

 

http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Ron..._3395.jpg.html did you go through the FAQ's?

 

Ok..

Got spark now..
One of my grounds was off..


Now.. another issue.. Not turning on..

Check comp 50psi on 3 cyl 100 on last one..

I have a doubt.. after i got the block assemble by the machine shop i let the block sit for like 1 month..

Then i swap it.. could it be that the cyl walls got dry and hence is not firing??

I'm gonna try to lubricate the walls today and see what happen..

I know i should have check that before i assemble my crap, but hey.. thats how u learn no? doing mistakes..

Any inputs thanks ..

Stan

 

Could it also be a bad ICM??

The dizzy is re manufacturer thou..

I really dont want to reopen that motor..

that means new HG, new rings..

Trying to stretch all possibilities before i open the block again =-(

Help?

Thanks

 

I don't think the sitting would prohibit compression in the cylinders as I let mine sit for a little and it started up with compression when I pieced it back together. Now that you have spark, what color is it? If you really want to test it without diving in, leak down test it....https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A-how-leakdown-test-%2A%2A-1491041/. Also, were you at WOT while compression testing?

 

Not at wot when comp tested..

I think next is a leak down test...

Ill take a closer look at what color is the spark..

I read that it should be white no?

 

You're going to want to be at WOT while compression testing or else it'll skew your figures significantly to the point where they are irrelevant, I've done this before. A little scary to hear how low yours were but try WOT and a leak down before you know for sure theres some things needing replacing. Bright white spark is what you want, yes.

 

Comp test should be WOT..

 

Ill try the leak down test today and report back...

this is def. an adventure.. =-)

it will suck if my rings are toast..

 

 

Ok..

Im getting white spark..

Tried to lubricate the walls and no go.. no start..

So for my own knowledge.. if i want to make sure the rings are toast for sure.. i can do a leak down test on all cyl and that should tell me if the rings are a goner right?

Thanks a lot guys.. im learning a ton with this adventure..

Stan

 

Listen for leakage out of the oil dipstick tube with the dipstick removed. If that's where your leakage is, then its your rings.

 

I gun some pressure air thru the plugs holes and air was coming out from the oil cap area..
?? same?

 

yup, you're suppose to take the valve cover off and do it properly, close the valves for that piston etc.. But if you have air coming out of your oil cap, that sounds like bad rings.

did you ever do a dry -> wet compression test? You take a bottle cap like off a qt of oil and pour 1 cap full of oil into the cyl before you do the compression test.

that seals the rings, and when your compression goes up you have a numerical measurement of just how bad the rings are. Just make sure you do each test wet and dry exactly the same. You're suppose to have the throttle valve fully open no air filter and a hot engine, and no fuel or spark.

 

If I were you, I would take picture results of a proper dry then wet compression test, and a leak-down-tester-tool gauge reading. And confront whoever sold me the engine whoever rebuilt the engine or whatever.

if someone sold you this engine and told you the block was rebuilt or even in good condition, and obviously it isn't, you could easily win a law suit in small claims court it costs like $35 to file the paper work. Like I said its an easy case, plus you get to make them come to court and be all "your honor! This guy scammed me! Make him give me my money back OR pay to have it fixed!"

 

That would be the icing on the cake, leak down the the dry and wet compression numbers. Makes sense right? Dry numbers significantly lower than wet paired with the leak down should pinpoint it without even taking the head apart. Or in this instance, the valve cover haha you can also pull the family guy reference in court!! "Do you swear to tell the truth the whole truth and nothing but the truth so help you god?". "I do........you bastard."

 

Thanks guys..

Will do the correct leak down test on sat.. i dont have the gauges so i will try to get them by then..

Block was bore and hone, clean deck..

I saw the block once it was finish but never checked the worked..
I guess i just trusted the guy..

I bought the head from another guy and he said it was rebuilt thou...

At this point i dont think is the head..

The car started for couple minutes in idle and then it shut off, like it got stuck..

Thanks again

 

Found your problem

 

At this point i dont think the head have a problem..

I believe is the block..

Ill know tomorrow for sure..

 

Ok did leak down test..

Something doesnt sound right..

Applied 50psi on cyl 1 and air was coming out from cyl 2 spark plug hole???

you can also feel air coming out from spark 3 and 4

Valves were fully closed..

Could it be HG?

Im taking the head out this monday..

 

Ok did leak down test..

Something doesnt sound right..

Applied 50psi on cyl 1 and air was coming out from cyl 2 spark plug hole???

you can also feel air coming out from spark 3 and 4

Valves were fully closed..

Could it be HG?

Im taking the head out this monday..

 

That does sound like the HG blew.

Makes me think the head is warped. Need to have the head checked for warpage.