So, I recently did a large amount of work on my car and now it is not starting. it is a 98 ex coupe with an ls swap out of a 98 integra ls. The ecu is a chipped obd1 non vtec with a step down jumper from phearable (presumably a p06 or p75? No code on it so idk). I believe the integra engine harness was used. I bought it swapped. I'm not sure if it ocould be related to all of it (burned my new ecu or something completely unrelated). I installed a turbo kit and therefore, an obd1 ecu and dsm injectors with resistors in the clips. Possibly the resistors were wired into the clips improperly causing the ecu to malfunction? It ran fine and I put probably a bit over 500 miles on it before it decided to stop running. It did not die on me, it simply would not start after I parked it one day. It sputtered the first time it turned over and makes no attempt to start since. I have yet to check if it has spark or injector pulse because I did not have tools on me when it stranded me, and I just had it towed back to my shop last night. However, it does have fuel pressure at the rail. The CEL turns on and off as it is supposed to as well as the main relay clicking and the pump priming. My question is, does this mean that the ECU is definitely functioning properly or should I not rule that out while looking for the problem elsewhere? If not, is there any other ways I can rule out the ECU?

Update: OK, so as the title now states, my b18b1 swapped ek is throwing a code 15 with no spark. I have already replaced the distributor, but this did not fix the problem. Where do I look from here? I have done some reading, but not found much straight forward info. I believe checking for battery voltage at the black/yellow wire on the distributor connector is one of the steps. Is this done by probing the unplugged connector and body ground with key on or by back probing it? What about the yellow/green wire? I am leaning towards the ecu being bad since I just recently installed a chipped obd1 ecu, dsm injectors, and home made injector clips with the resistors soldered in, but not sure how to narrow it down to that.

 

Is it a no crank or crank and no start?
Maybe check these before you go jumping to the ECU being faulty.

 

Cranks, but does not start. I was worried that my injector clips may have caused the ecu to go because I wired in resistors instead of using a resistor box and was second guessing my work due to it being so recent. Wasn't sure if the fact that turning the key causes the CEL, relay, and pump to all cycle properly was enough to simply rule out the ecu. That said, I highly doubt all 4 injectors would fail simultaneously, and there is indeed fuel pressure. So if there is no injector pulse, would that steer me towards a bad ecu? I would assume no spark would not narrow it down, but it would at least rule out jumped timing correct?

 

Did you try the original ecu? Don't know where it is, than go find it.

 

No more speculating. Check for bright white bluish tinted spark and fuel at the injectors.
Follow this guide.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%2A%2A%2A-basics-no-start-diagnosis-101-%2A%2A%2A-1992733/

 

Try turning it over without the plugs in and check if you can smell gas thru the spark plug tubes

 

That being said, you should check for all of the necessary requirements for combustion. If it has compression, fuel in the cylinders, airflow, working spark, then you've crossed out everything that isn't dumb electrical problems. Good luck if it turns out to be dumb electrical problems lol

 

W.
T.
F.
???

 

There is fuel at the rail (I have a pressure gauge), but that doesn't mean the injectors are firing. I assume smelling for gas through the spark plug tubes would rule out the injector pulse though (fuel in the combustion chamber)? I do not have noid lights, unfortunately. I do have the original obd2 ecu. Will it flood on startup with the dsm injectors or will it just run like ****?

 

Do what the grumble sez. No spark is likely your culprit. Dizzy may be bad. They seem to fail a lot!

 

I will be checking spark asap. Dizzy is what I'm hoping for. Just as expensive as some of the other possibilities, but atleast I don't have to wait on shipping. I'm simply trying to gather as much info as I can to proceed with once I get to wrenching on the car a bit.

 

Yeah, I fought mine for a couple of months on the '99 D16, then it finally died for good.
Good news is Autozone sold me a 'lifetime' replacement for like $139. Do the shaft seal, too.
EZ to replace!

 

IKR?

 

Cranks but doesn't start was the ignition coil going bad for me. Don't buy a whole new distributor if you can just replace the ignition coil or the control module on the distributor. When i took my ignition coil out it had what looked like blueish burnt spots. This video helped me.

 

Ok so to give a little update, on Sunday, I pulled all of the plugs and checked the spark individually with all 4 injectors unplugged, wiping them all off as I went because they did have a little fuel and good bit of carbon on them (basemap runs pretty rich). At the same time, I opened up the ecu and reseated the chip. Because I did all of this before attempting to start it again, idk which, if either of these, fixed the problem. However, again today, the car stranded me. This time, I was cruising along on the parkway, and all of a sudden, it threw a cel, the rpms dumped to about nothing, and all throttle response was gone. I pulled to the side of the road where it stalled out and would not start again. I believe the code it threw was a code 20 (ELD), but it was hard to tell because the light seemed to be blinking erratically and extremely dimly to the point I could barely see it in day light between the two long blinks. This thing is really racking up the tow bills, but does anyone have any ideas where to look first once I get it back home? I've never heard of a bad ELD causing the car to completely shut down before.

 

Battery dead....

 

Battery is alive and well. 12.7v still cranks strong.

 

Where is the original ecu?

 

Back to square 1. Check spark and fuel when engine won't start. Not much value in posting again until you have these answers.

Post a video of the CEL blinking the code.

 

It started and drove home this morning. Wtf? I might add that it was 90deg and humid yesterday.

 

Follow post #19 when the problem recurs.

 

Is there a sure fire way to check injector pulse without noid lights? There has always been pressure at the rail and every time I've checked spark there was spark. Come to find out that this morning when it was driven home this morning (I'm not the one that picked it up), the cel would flash everytime it was given any throttle, but would stop when coasting/decelerating.

 

 

I understand that. Unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to. What about injector pulse? I edited my previous post to add more but did not catch you before you posted.

 

Injector pulse can be checked with a simple test light, but you are getting ahead of yourself by skipping the basics. If the problem repeats, follow what I posted and then post the results. The tests are meaningless when the engine starts and runs fine.