Car: civic ex 97
LS/VTEC
crome Pro (p06 VTEC) Tuned.

The car won't start unless press the gas and die as soon let the gas off. With the gas pressed stay ON but sputters and backfires with high gas odor.

Code 15
12.4 v at battery
11.60 v at coil with switch to ONII
Continuity in a21
Two distributors with new wires and cap.
Try different chip.

Any help will be appreciated!!!

 

Who tuned it? Did you test the ICM/coil in both distributors?

 

Tuned by Pablo thunder and me at dorado muffler Dyno Jet.

New coil on the first dist.

The second one is a new unit from king Dist.

 

Made a few tests:

A21 continuity(resistance) = 003
A21 voltage switch ONII = 5.7v
Coil switch ONII = 11.6v
New igniter 11.6v at blk/Yl pin

With the 11.6v reaching the igniter, the ignition output drop to 5.7v. The same with two distributors one OEM the other King.

The A21 is supposed to have 10v right?

 

Check the A21 wire for a short to ground.

 

Do you refer, with the switch to ONII plug A disconnected, red prove in a21 and black prove to body ground?

If not let me know how...

 

Disconnect wire at ICM and ECU. Then do test you stated.

 

made short to ground test, No short.

Any other suggestions...

 

someone!!!

 

TD-87U distributor from a running integra = 5.7v in a21

sometimes in the start sound like out off time.

Time in spot.

5.7v at a21 isn't normal right?

 

Civic ex 97 LS/VTEC P06 crome pro.
11.6v at coil positive
11.6v at igniter middle wire
5.7v output in A21 (female adapter direct to igniter pin) ONII
A21 = 5.7v

Continuity test= Yes
Not short to ground at a21

Symptoms: Hard start and only stay running with the gas pressed, back fires and strongly fuel smell.

 

Have you ever fixed this issue? I'm having the same problem with my civic. outputting 0.65 volts...
No short to ground, distributor resistance is okay (ICM and Coil) tried multiple ECUs (stock P06, P28, chipped P28). put in a new engine wiring loom as well. still no 10 volts.

 

More information is needed.

1. What voltage do you read between the battery posts?
2. What voltage do you read at the Blk/Yel wires attached to the coil and igniter unit?
3. What voltage do you read at the Yel/Grn wire attached to the igniter unit?
4. What voltage do you read at A21 and A22 in unplugged ECU connector A?

 

1. Voltage between battery posts is 11.98 volts.
2. blk/yel wire reads 11.98 volts as well.
3. Yel/Grn wire is 0.65 volts
4. 0.65 volts at A21 and A22

 

Where was the Blk/Yel wire voltage measured?

 

Blk/Yel wire was measured at the distributor connector

 

side note: i've also swapped out the distributor with a known working one recently.

 

Remove distributor cap, rotor, and dust cover.

With distributor plug connected and key in ON(II), measure Blk/Yel wire voltage at both the coil and igniter unit.

What are the voltage readings?

 

Did you repeat all voltage tests with the new distributor installed?

Is CEL code 15 thrown after cranking engine for 30 seconds?

 

measured 10.75 volts at blk/yel to igniter and 10.57 volts to the coil.

 

CEL 15 will light up when cranking for 30 seconds.
And all voltage readings have been made with the new distributor.

 

Describe how you did the test for a short to ground on the Yel/Grn wire.

 

Replacing the entire Engine wiring loom with a known working one. no worn cables on the loom or anything suspicious that could lead to a short to ground

 

Pull out the multimeter and actually do the proper electrical tests to pinpoint the problem.

 

Measured every wire / connection using AutoData and written all results down on paper.
Every wire / ground seems to be fine, except the Yel/Grn wire from the distributor which measures in at 0.65 volts.
I've also noticed i have just 1 volt coming through the ignition coil. with 12 volts going in to the ICM. (Blk/Yel).

Also just replaced the ICM it self thinking it would be the cause of the low voltage. but the new ICM also puts out 0.65 volts on the Yel/Grn and about 0.90-1.00 volt on the other cables.