So something "tragic" happened to my 99 civic the other day. I was cruising down the street, and as soon as I shifted into 2nd, I heard a "pop" noise and 2nd gear was grinding like a MF. I panicked, put the car in neutral, and pulled over. I immediately thought that I blew my transmission or ruined my clutch. I popped my hood open, and I saw my damn passenger engine mount halfway down the engine bay. I was stranded on the side of the road, but luckily, a local neighbor let me park my car on his driveway until next morning. Right now, the car is parked in front of a relative's house in La Mirada and needs to be towed to Anaheim. I'm waiting on triple A to pick it up with a flat bed later today.

Anyways, since the engine and transmission fell the way it did, is there any possible damage to the clutch or tranny? The engine turns on, but it obviously shakes the entire car. When I was pushing my car the other day, I noticed a constant clicking noise. I'm not sure if that was the broken axle (half is attached to the tranny, the other half is attached to the wheel hub). You'll notice in the pictures that it was the mount that was part of the engine bay that broke (not the innovative mount). How do you fix that? I doubt Honda sells that lol. Looks like I need someone to weld a new piece but that sounds kind of risky. Also, has this ever happened to any of you? Is there a possibility of some heavy damage to the motor/tranny/clutch?

 

No pics.

 

HT was giving me an error since I tried uploading all of them at once. It should work now

 

Note: On the 3rd to last picture, I decided to share how F'd up my engine bay already was. The previous owner crashed the front end into a tree (according to carfax). There's some shitty welding going on in the engine bay. I'm not sure if that had anything to do with the engine mount breaking.

 

I think it was the major contributor to that catastrophic failure. Lots of cutting and welding involved in fixing this. You could get an estimate if you're not able to perform the fixes yourself but I'd start looking for a clean shell to swap all that into.

 

^^yup, that. Once I saw the pictures of the "fix" the PO did, the culprit was exposed.

 

I'm not experienced with welding/cutting so I can't fix this, unfortunately. A new shell was my "plan b", but it looks like that will be the cheapest, and most reliable way of fixing this.

Its going to be a LONG time before I can fix this. Does anyone have any idea if leaving the engine lopsided like that for a long time will damage or affect it any way? I don't have an engine stand at the moment.

 

junk it. buy a new shell.

 

I'm only guessing but I'd say no.

 

I noticed you don't have the torque mounts on. Any reason why you didn't install them? Had a friend who didn't install them on and started launching like he stole it. Couple weeks later the driver side looked just like your passenger side.

 

As long as you don't try to run it like that, and as long as the oil pan and any wiring isn't supporting weight, you can let it hang like that. Make sure the oil pan and wiring isn't supporting weight. If the oil pan is supporting weight, it can crack, bend, and break, and a damaged oil pan can **** up your oil pickup, which can **** up your whole motor. Wiring is a pain in the ***, no one likes doing it, and if you rip something out because it was holding the engine up, you're going to play hell fixing it.

If I were you, I would say better safe than sorry, and put a 2x4 and a jack under the engine to hold it in it's proper place.

 

Take those pictures to a welder. I am sure you could spend less than $300 and have it fixed to drive. You are not going to be able to race it or beat on it, but it will be a grocery getter and better than taking the bus to work.

 

I didn't do my swap. I'm not sure if they weren't installed or if they fell off when the engine dropped. How did your friend fix his car after that?

 

He went and bought the oem torque mounts NEW from Honda, even the brackets both tranny and the ac bracket. The only thing that snapped were the bolts that held the post to the engine.

To everybody else new to the forums THIS IS WHY WE REQUEST PICTURES, TO SPOT THE **** YOU MISSED AND EASILY IDENTIFY WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT.

 

Thanks, I'll take a look and make sure nothing got caught under the motor and trans. The motor is REALLY close to the ground and I don't have a lo pro jack that can fit under the motor.... Can I just lift the side of the car, put some wood under the engine, then lower the car back to normal?

 

That's all you can do at this point. Those torque mounts might have saved you from this. AT the very least, lessened the damage.

 

It sounds like its just the motor mount that is broken but there is a chance that there could be other damage unfortunately, as for all the noises and issues you are having, the motor is askew and putting strain and things aren't in aligned like they should be so this puts a strain on the rest of the components of the car. I wouldn't turn it on or mess with it until fixed honestly. Find a good welder as this is not some random part that will not affect the car or how it runs and drives if there is a shoddy job done. Good luck

 

You could jack up the car, but if you jack it from the passenger side, the motor isn't going to come up, and if you jack it from the driver side, I don't know if it'll come up enough. Your best bet would be to buy/borrow/rent an engine hoist, lift the motor back into place, and get some wood under the transmission from there. Avoid putting any pressure on the oil pan.

Give me a minute, I'll find the part #'s you need for your front torque mounts.

 

Frame shop might be able to help but you have to remember they will not be held liable for anything else. You can go junkyard hopping get to find that small piece and get it cut off and then the frame shop can do the rest.

 

That's a good point. The engine will most likely stay right where it is. But if he get's a new shell the old mounts should still be there.

 

38930-P72-000 OR 38930-P30-000 OR 38930-P7J-000 for the driver side (bolts to the front of the block). Since you don't have A/C, any of those three will work, but if you want to add AC later, get the P7J.

50843-S04-N10 for the passenger side (bolts to the front of the transmission).

50842-ST0-N10 for the driver side. Frame mount.

50841-ST0-N10 for the passenger side. Frame mount.

95801-10045-08 X4. These are the bolts that will hold the driver side mount onto the engine.

90166-ST7-000 X3. These are the bolts that will hold the passenger side mount onto the transmission.

90505-SB2-000 X3. Washers for the passenger side mount bolts.

90372-SR3-003 X2. Nuts for the funny flanged stud into chassis mounts.

90504-SR3-010 X2. Washers for the funny flanged stud into chassis mounts.

90166-SR3-000 X4. Bolts for chassis mounts.

90131-ST7-000 X1. Funny looking flanged stud for the driver side bracket, holds the bracket to the frame mount.

90133-S04-000 X1. Funny looking flanged stud for the passenger side bracket, holds the bracket to the frame mount.

 

I had something like that happen on my old DC2 the trans bolts let go simpler fix and thx to the 88A durometer rating there wasn't much sag. In this case I'd just get a new shell or car it's already hacked up as you discovered.

 

Looking at the images from my desktop now, I strongly suggest you find another shell. It looks like it ripped off both mounting points.

 

All thes part numbers are invaluable. This is a costly option. Junkyards around these here parts don't charge for bolts. Pockets don't have mouths either. Neither an option, hardware store. Get the size and thread pitch from the part numbers and start up a conversation with Billy at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, or whatever.

 

The bolts and washers, for the most part, can be replaced with their "hardware store" equivalents. They are flanged bolts, though, which you won't find at a hardware store, so you'll need to make sure you use very thick washers. When installing them, it's also a good idea to lightly lubricate the contact points with some engine oil, so you can get accurate torque values. The OEM hardware is also made of a material that is rust-resistant, whereas hardware store equivalents won't be.

Overall, yes, OEM nuts and bolts are more expensive, but in the long run, they're worth the extra couple bucks.