I've read a couple other posts with a similar problem so I've got an idea of possibilities. Hoping someone can help me narrow it down. While driving at normal RPMs and speed, the engine dies--no sputtering or warning whatsoever. It does not affect the vehicle's electronics. Occasionally it fires right back up, but usually it requires a minute or two of rest. Other times it may not start for 20 minutes.

My initial thought was that it wasn't getting fuel or I had bad fuel. Tried a bottle of heet in it but no difference. After attempting to crank for a couple minutes, I smelled the tailpipe and didn't have any indication of fuel (not sure how effective that diagnosis is). When cranking but not starting it has occasionally sounded like one cylinder may be firing-- the engine may even briefly run on that one cylinder with tach barely registering.

Could it be a fuel filter? I've got 180k miles and I imagine its original. But when I rev the engine it doesn't seem to struggle for fuel. And there is never any sputtering, just an instant stall. If it was easier to get to I'd just swap it out to eliminate it as a possibility.

I've tried the shake the key trick test for a faulty ignition with neg results. ICM/ignitor has been to blame in some of the similar posts I've read, but why would I get that sound like one cylinder is firing sometimes? Coil maybe? Should I just start replacing ignition parts?

Many thanks,

Brian
Ketchikan, AK

 

Sounds like the ignition switch. There was a recall on the 94-97 Accords for a faulty ignition switch. My 97 did the same thing as yours, just stalled with no warning and would eventually start back. And then one day it wouldn't, so I took it to a mechanic, and sure enough, that's what it was. Found out later it was a recall issue. Mine had about 220k at the time.

EDIT: Here's the link to the recall: http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/ar...=2002052353859

 

Start with the basics, check your battery connections and ground connections, verify everything is clean and tight. Next watch the Tach, when attempting to start the car does it move or does it not do anything?

 

Thanks for the responses. I checked the battery connections today-- tight, no corrosion. I'll check the ground strap tomorrow and will promptly beat myself up if its something that simple.

I checked the tach when it stalked this evening. It doesn't even flicker when I crank it. I'm guessing that's a sign of ignition switch failure?

 

My Honda accord did this and turned out to be fuel pump relay was going out and after I got that replaced my fuel pump went out. Hope this helps! BTW the relay is under sorta near steering column.

 

these cars have fuel pumps IN the gas tank and are difficult to replace. i bet it happens more often on hot days than cooler days. probaly doesnt happen in the morning either but more in the afternoon/mid-day. if so fuel pump. the wiring in these cars seems to be very solid. u can give the gas tank a few whacks with a hammer and get some life outta it. i suggest Denso fuel pumps or u might be replacing it again in a few years

 

Tach isn't moving at all. Ground strap and battery connection are good. Does that mean power isn't making it to the distributor?

 

If the tach is not moving then most likely the pickup in the distributor is not sending a signal, most likely the symptoms of a dying igniter. Check for spark when it does not start.
Use this link for quick diagnostics..
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

 

Thanks for the responses. I just ordered a $30 ignitor from rock auto so I'll post a follow up when I get that installed. So far as I can tell its not sparking at the plug. Ideally I'd have 2 people to check for a spark but I had some trouble convincing somebody else to come drive around with me until my car died and wouldn't restart. I bought a spare plug though and laid it on the valve cover and a couple other configurations to make sure it was grounded-- all with negative results.

Lets hope the ICM/igniter fixes it.

Brian

 

Update: $30 ICM from Rock Auto showed up on Thursday and I put it in last night. Test drove it today for about an hour and it appears to fixed. Thanks mad_mike for the diagnosis.

I know some other people have said the aftermarket ICMs are often junk but this one appears to be working. That part is so simple to install I tend to think the cheap aftermarket part is worth the risk.

Again, thanks to all who replied.