k, before you guys yell search at me, I have been searching and continue to search.
All I could find was d15 or d16y7 owners that wanted to put a y8 or z6 head on them, but mines a little different and i cant seem to find any help.

I have a 2000 civic ex with the stock y8 5sp, coming up on 170k. I wanna put and/or change to a different bottom end when the time comes. Nothing wrong with it right now, but I ran it low on oil (3/4q total) and its never done that before (was using 5/30wt Castrol) So im kinda worried that I might spin a bearing soon. I hope I didn't do any damage to my bearings or engine. If I had any loose bearing clearances that would have helped me out from spinning a bearing? I dunno. I don't race my car and i take very good care of it maintenance wise.

What would be the easiest thing to do while giving me a little bit of power?

I wanna get to 130WHP with good torque, will a D17 Stroker get me there with a .01-.02 mill (10.6-10.9 CR) and without I/H/E?
Or a Y8 head with a Y7 block, .02-.03 mill job (10.6-10.9 CR) with a I/H/E, and a DIY PNP.
If im not satisfied, set a 150WHP goal with Stage 1 or Delta regrind cam, fpr, hi profile inj and ODB 1 equipment to do my own street tune (that's like alot of $ to me)
I don't do any machining, nor have any hook-ups on anything.
Just 2 junk yards to choose from lol.

1. Buy a D17 crank, rod and pistons, B series crank pully, rebuild a Y7 , keep my Y8 head, mill the bock and head .01-02. 10.6-10.9 CR.

2. Buy a D16y7 bottom block, rebuild it, keep my Y8 head, mill the block and head .02-.03, 10.6-10.9 CR.

3. Buy a Y7Y8 block, rebuild it with NPR PM6 pistons, mill .01-02 (10.8-11.2CR)

4. Something completely different and/or easier. Balanced Ebay turbo (Emusa) with Go Auto Works pro oil line kit and restrictor on 5-6 psi?
Go 75.5-76 and bore it out?

I live in an apartment, so I will be taking my time, piece by piece rebuilding it.And I don't have another car, its my only one.
I don't have much money saved up, and I would like to not drop too much into it. Honestly, the most I would want to put into it is $2,000.
Thats with a ECU and tune... I thought about turbo, but it would have to be Emusa and im back n forth with this.
I can get a B20 swap for $2,000 also, but if i move to another state where they test, it would be a waste.

I'm not going to be auto crossing it, drag racing or quarter miles. Just some get up and go around the block, have some fun in it, take pride in my ride. I finally got the civic i wanted, and i plan on keeping it for a very long time.Sorry if this has been asked before, but i just couldn't find the right links even going back 20 pages with different search words.

Thank you guys for reading all that, hopefully I can make a better choice and get some knowledge of where to go from here.
Thanks again,
Danny

 

Either option makes power, either option requires a custom map.

You say your search only comes up with people swapping y8 heads so how did you hear about the D17 Stroker?

 

IKR?
Another "Which is Better?" opinion poll, non-tech thread.
If you truly researched then you should know you can get 130WHP (I don't know what "good torque" is supposed to mean) out of a D-series pretty easy without having to resort to some of the overkill methods you suggested as options.

Do more research. Come back with specific questions

 

The D17 block is completely different than the D15/16 blocks. Namely, the oil passages.



That's a D16 head gasket on a D17 block. This is in the realm of "if you have to ask, you can't do it". You need to read the FAQ sticky, then read the rules, then try again.

 

But the D17 pistons, rods and crank fit on the D16. Hence the name "D17 destroker". Someone actually did this in forums of d-series.org. Pretty interesting stuff.

edit: read his first option again, disregard my info to try to correct you.

 

That was something i stumbled upon while looking to switch out my bottom end for a Y7. A Y7 rebuild with it's P2E's pistons or new PM6's from the D16A6 and 10.6-10.9CR would require a custom map? Is it because of the 1 point of compression?


By good torque I mean down low, anywhere from 2-5K RPM, where i mostly drive. A D17 Stroker would gimme good trq down low, but bolt-ons on a Y really wouldn't right? I thought I had some very specific tech questions


Sorry, I meant the bottom block for a D17, like the Crank, Rods, and Pistons, maybe the Valve Cover if I didn't wanna drill into my D17 Oil Pump.


Yeah, I think I've read all the stroker builds over there, Danz, Speedfoo, Ethan and some other ones... Thats what opened my eyes to Stroking it

 

You've only got a piece of each type of build which is why a lot of your assumptions are wrong. That's why you don't know which direction to go in. You can get your 150WHP out of your block without re-inventing the wheel.

Option #1, #2 & #3. As if that were going to get you to your goal. Pffft. Option #4? You have no clue what you're talking about.

This is a sample of what you need to do to get near 150whp out of a D-series.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/built-d16-dyno-results-1759605/
The Build:

D16Z6 Bottom end (from 1995 Civic Si VTEC)
-D16A6 (PM6 CRX Si) Pistons
-Completly rebuild and cleaned with new everything
-Bored .040 Over (from 75mm to 76mm bores)
-New Exedy Clutch
-Exedy Lightweight Flywheel
-ARP headstuds

D16Y8 Head (from 2000 Civic EX VTEC)
-Crower Stage 2 Cam
-Crower valve springs
-Crower Titanium retainers
-completly rebuild and cleaned with new everything
-Skunk 2 Pro Series Intake Manifold
-2 layer head gasket
-AEM Adj. Cam gear
-B16 Throttle boddy (increases from 56mm to 58mm)
-B16 Intake arm
-Apex'i Power Intake
-DC Sports 4-1 Headers
-2.5 inch mandrel Exhaust with 22" resonator, SNL Twin Loop

Enigne Managment
-Socketed and chiped P28 ecu
-Hondata S100 piggyback

Cooling:
-GSR Radiator

Transmition:
-EX/Si Trans

Go home and do more research or just swap the damn thing. I don't know why someone always comes along and starts a thread as if they're doing or discovered something new.

 

Okay so you search and found your answer but you want us to suggest something for you to do?

I'm out..........

 

If I would stay with the Y block, i'ld only try to get up to 130WHP, going up to 150WHP is just wayyy to much $$ to build. 150WHP would be for the turbo.
That's why I'm asking if it would be better/cheaper to do the stroker for N/A, or 150WHP for the turbo.

The Y build I would only do what I listed above, rebuild bottom, I/H/E, stage 1 or Delta regrind, bump up the compression close to 11, PNP head, and maybe HiProfile injectors chipped ecu and tune.

For the D16 Stroker, a rebuilt bottom, PNP head, CR close to 11 and probably just I/H/E because of the higher toque and horsepower from the stroke.

I'm asking you guys because you've probably been there before, built up motors or have friends that have, and KNOW what each setup is capable of. Last thing I wanna do is go out and build the damn thing and knowing that I just spend a bunch money on crap when I could have done it differently.



What answers? I just know some of what it could take to get to 130WHP N/A, but i dunno which setup would be best. What's this forum for, to help each other out right?

 

There is no best. Research and make an informed decision. This is a tech forum. Not a place for opinion polls.

 

Honestly, there is no point trying to achieve huge gains out of a naturally aspirated D-series. It just won't happen.

If you want any real gains, you need boost.

 

Question, would a Stroker be able to run off a factory P2P ECU?

 

There are naturally asperate 150hp d15b7s

 

What do you think?

 

Why not be the first?

 

What's your point? No one is arguing that it can't be done.
Asperate=not a word.
Aspirate=to provide (an internal combustion engine) with air

 

It "might" be able to run on a P2P, but running properly I'm not sure. But didn't you say you could get by in Texas?

 

lol.

OP, NO. It will NOT run it properly. You will be lean.

 

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...-d16y8-z6.html

 

see

"Honestly, there is no point trying to achieve huge gains out of a naturally aspirated D-series. It just won't happen.

If you want any real gains, you need boost."

also, awh shucks does that mean I'm out of the spelling bee? Noooo

 

That is me you are quoting. I am not saying that it "can't be done". Of course you can build a D-series. Is it worth it?

The cost of building an engine, whether it is B-series or D-series, is very high. Boosting on a stock engine (albeit, on low boost) will give you significantly more HP per dollar. And the fact that it is a D-series we are speaking of, it couldn't be more true.

 

Horsepower per dollar depends entirely on how much power you want. For OP's goals, a straight up 15G on 8-10 PSI and a good tune would get him there comfortably for a hell of a lot less than cracking open the block.

 

I concur.

 

I also concur and would love to know what a hiprofile injector is ?

 

HiProfile is (evidently) a company (that I've never heard of) that sells injectors.