I just changed my rear brake pads and drove bout a mile to get gas and test brakes saw the driver rear brake calipers smoking white, hot and a foul smell. When i changed the brake pad on that side the rotor was missing the 2 screws probably from a long time ago and I had to gently hammer the caliper in with the new pads.
I already adjusted the emergency brake thinking it was that but still smoking.

Please help and thank you

 

Also I changed them cuz they were worn and squeaking, they also felt like both were draging.

New pads still sound like they both rub and both drag but doesn't pull car to either side, but the driver side is smoking and hot.

 

Was the caliper piston seized on the LH/driver's side? That might explain the need to "hammer" the caliper back in place with new pads installed. If the piston is not seized, you can use a clamp or piston compressor to slowly force the piston back onto the caliper's bore, so you have full space for both new pads to fit when installing the loaded caliper back over the rotor.

 

I turned the piston clock wise to get it to go in, the C clamp never works for my accord, or integra every time I try a c clamp it barely works compared to turning the piston.

 

But I did try c clamp it doesnt budge. But turning piston does. Same for both sides.

 

If you rotated the pistons to get them to fully retract back into the bores, that works fine. Were you able to fully seat the caliper pistons?

If the piston is fully retracted, even with new pads you shouldn't need to use excessive force to fit the loaded caliper over the rotors.

What year is your Accord, BTW?

 

I got the calipers seated started with a corner and jus tapped the rest in with a hammer.. it is a 99 accord coupe. The other side i got in no problems.

 

 

lol mike

http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-br...sor-68973.html

something like that, and be done with it

sounds like your caliper is seizing up ... i would pick up another ... remember to grease the sliding pins with high temperature brake grease, they just pop out and you lube em up real good and pop em back in

 

Are changing brake calipers fairly easy and straight forward?

 

This. However, no force should be needed.

You cannot push the rear caliper piston in with a clamp. The piston is threaded for the parking break. It has to be turned with a special tool or some needle nose pliers.

If you had to hammer the caliper on, the piston was not in far enough. You need to turn the piston further in. Watch the seal around it to make sure it doesn't fold in on itself with all that gunk and dirt.

So now you're just dragging the brakes on the rotor - causing premature wear and tear. The back calipers won't make as big an impact on steering as the front will.

Before you think about changing them out, turn the pistons further, until you're able to get the pads on with plenty of clearance. After reassembly, pump the brake several time, and apply/disengage the parking brake as well. That should adjust the system to the engineered tolerance.

 

Thanks I'll try that before I order new calipers I hope thats it. Tyvm for everyone's help

 

So tried to fully extend then retracted piston by twisting, also greased pins, cuz I noticed it wasnt moving when I removed them. After grease they still didnt move like the other side did. Reinstalled brakes didnt have to hammer them on, turned car on pumped brakes, turned car off. Tried to turn the rotors while car still jacked, but still dragging pretty hard.

Think its the pins that slide back and fourth are shot. So does that mean I need new calipers or is there another fix?

Thanks again!

 

There won't be much side-to-side movement/sliding when the pads are new and still have a lot of material on them. The sliders allow the caliper to apply force to both pads on each side of the rotor, equally, so if the caliper is still "sticking" and not retracting as it should once the pressure is released (i.e., foot off brake pedal), the caliper should be replaced.

Are the slider pins pitted or rusty?

 

Update installed.new calipers, rotors and brake pads fixed the problem now I think I need front brake pads as it still squeeks. Changing out rear calipers and bleeding brakes were pretty straight forward and easy hardest part was the emergency brake cable. Thanks for everyones input and answers