ok. So i am curently building a 99 ek coupe for mini stock racing here in VT. and need help getting the most power out of a d16y7 engine....

here are the engine rules:

Engine must be STOCK for year, make, and model. All mechanical and
electrical engine components must remain stock.

2. Maximum overbore .020” for cleanup only. NO TOLERANCE.

3. NO turbochargers. NO superchargers. DEVIL’S BOWL SPEEDWAY – 2014 – MINI STOCK 19

4. 16 valve engines allowed.

5. Any camshaft allowed.

6. NO DOHC engines allowed.

7. WEIGHTS:
All cars will be checked for engine displacement size and must weigh 1,000
lbs. per liter (minimum weight 2,200). Weight and height measurements will
be taken with driver in car.

ENGINE SIZE MINIMUM WIEGHT LEFT SIDE WEIGHT
2.2 Liter and smaller Min. 2,200 lbs. Max. 54% left-side
2.3 Liter Min. 2,300 lbs. Max. 54% left-side
2.4 Liter Min. 2,400 lbs. Max. 54% left-side
2.5 Liter Min. 2,500 lbs. Max. 54% left-side

8. Exhaust manifold must remain stock. Muffler and catalytic converter may be
removed. Exhaust must dump behind driver from under car. Exhaust maximum
2” in diameter.

9. Aftermarket air filter allowed. Must be contained inside engine compartment.

10. NO ANTIFREEZE PERMITTED. Use of additive



so that said what is my best bet for making more power.....

Thanks

 

Make sure you port the oil pump, or it will NOT live at high rpm.

 

I feel like the 1.6 is holding you back due to the rules. This is weird racing. I'm going to do some searching and see if I can find some results from people who have done it.

Found one article on it, I think:
http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...da_mini_stock/

Seems like most of the threads I find are just people trying to cheat. Seems like a dirty racing world. Trying to modify the car beyond the limits without anyone noticing.

I think you will find some decent gains in suspension work. I'd stay as close to the 2,200 lbs as you can too. I've seen the rear ends (interior area) of hatches rewelded to make it stiffer. I believe it is spot welded from the factory.

Are the VTEC motors banned in this?

 

Why do you have a Y7 in it in the first place? Do you also have the slow matching transmission to go with it?

 

There I go giggling at grumblemarc again. Any camshaft- as in aftermarket as well, or only any stock?

 

If any cam shaft can be used if call bisimoto

 

This^^^^
But, a better transmission would be better than any cam swap

 

Don't see how you run an aftermarket cam and not get the setup tuned for greatest effect.

 

Well, for instance, Skunk2 tuner 1 cams, which I have in my h22, will make 10-15 hp without tuning with some bolt ons.

I'm very intrested in this build, sounds fun and intriguing, like a puzzle.
OP, are there any other rules for the intake side? is an aftermarket air filter the absolute ONLY thing you can do? Because there are plenty of STOCK intake parts that can increase your power, and take full advantage of a camshaft

 

Yes I can use a cam, the reason for running a y7 is because the motor must be from that make and model civic I have ... So can't run a z6 or anything .... As for the tranny what should I run ? I'm gonna take the y7 trans out

 

Also have to run stock exhaust manifold no headers aloud ... But I'm putting a zc manifold on it because it had more flow with a stock appearance ... Yeah kinda a little cheat haha ... But after that you can run whatever you want for exhaust ... As long as it's past driver seat.

 

You have yet to say exactly what model you have. EX? DX? etc....
I'm no expert or anything but I thought the Y7s came in the hatchbacks and sedans. I guess I could look it up but I don't feel like it.

 

Glad you can use a cam and stock bolt ons. Look into a ITR TB on a z6? Manifold, could be killer

 

Y7's came in coupes as well...

Anyways, people will ALWAYS cheat in racing. In oval track racing power isn't everything and it looks like the rules are very strict on making the competition fair - as long as they actually enforce the rules. Most people come to the track to get super upset that they followed the rules and nobody else is. I highly recommend throwing the car together and going to a race before you start pouring money in the engine. Most races are won in the corners and not the straights. There are HUNDREDS of threads on oval track racing a Honda... search.

 

Hmm if it's won in the corners...then perhaps a tranny with an LSD would be very beneficial, although I don't know if any d series trannies take an LSD or come from the factory with one

 

The car is a dx so stock with y7. I'm interested in the intake mani options and I can't seem to find an aftermarket cam for the y7 .... Sooo anyone know of one ?

 

Also any d series LSD trans ??? Si trans maybe ?

 

Any D series intake manifold will work. Why are you so fixed on a LSD? Have you even raced with each to know the difference? You need to work on chassis setup before you even worry about something like a LSD. They push off the gas and pull on the gas. Tire pressures, worn vs new tires, tire sizing can all easily compensate for a car that actually needs a LSD. Most FWD cars don't need one.

 

Ok so what trans should I run then ? I really need to figure out what to get ... Also I'm more focused on the motor other then chassis but what do you think I should do to make it work well ???? As for springs and sh*t ? The roll cage will stiffen it up a lot ... ?? Any input on building an ek coupe circle track car is greatly appreciated ! Thank you

 

As long as there are no rules against suspension and ride hight, you need a good set of coilovers, and they aren't cheap. I believe the cheapest reliable setup you could run is the Koni yellows+ GC springs, $800 I think. I have also heard very very good reviews on Progress coilovers, and only 650-700 bucks I believe. A simple google search should tell you what spring and dampening rates would be good

Roll cage will stiffen it a lot

If you're really set on making more power, then you really need a drop in cam. Bisimoto would be the only place I know of that could help you there, or research better stock cams that are compatable with your head

Edit: More power isn't going to do a dang thing if you can't get that power to the ground. A set of lightwieght wheels and good tires should be in order first

 

Only suspension rules are have to be stock form and lowest point of car must be at least 3" from the ground. But we can run any spring/coilovers we want. I did some research and think I'm gonna go with a y8 intake mani and y8 header and I emailed bismoto asking about the cam. Waiting to hear back. As for rims/tires we are required to run 14x7 steel rims and have to buy the Goodyear tires that they sell at the track. So I'm gonna get a set of bassets or diamond racing wheels .... Any suggestions on adjustable upper control arms ? Want something strong !

 

All upper control arms (not including eGay) should be fine with strength. What you should be concerned with is ball joint life. I don't think you can beat Honda ball joints.
But I also don't know any camber kits that run stock ball joints. I know Spoon makes some that of course are super high quality...
Most would say Skunk2 camber kit, but their joints dont last over a year, and I think thats as good as it gets.
Except my ultra rare Vision arms

 

Fantastic post.

OP, Having run mini/pony stock before, I can tell you that suspension tuning alone should get you into the top half of the field. If the class is anything like it is here in the south, then just finishing the race might do that anyways.

Run a bone stock car first and see where you end up.

Invading the "gray" area in the rules is stuff for guys trying to get from 2-5th into 1st, not for someone just starting out.