OK so long story short i replaced the motor in my civic. I was at the shop for around 2 months. Well finally got it back today but have AC issues It is properly charged an no leaks were detected. When the AC is turned on the condenser fan kicks in and the compressor goes to work cycling on and off which i assume is normal. Well following the line to the evaporator it remains cold however after entering through the firewall it still stays cold but once reaching the evaporator nothing can be felt. I read that the evaporator is supposed to be the coldest part in a AC system. Now it does look really dirty and there seems to be lots of dirt in between the fins. The evaporator does get cold but only about as cold as a bottle of coke in the fridge and it only last about 10 seconds. Now even on high the air is warm coming through the vent. Could my evaporator be clogged or is there another part of the system that i am missing that i have failed to check. Thanks guys, and if it is the evaporator would anybody know how to remove the casing around it. i have looked online everywhere and i see how to vacuum it out but i dont see anything regarding actually taking the case off unless the case has to come off with the evaporator all at once. Thanks again!

 

I was also told that maybe it could even be the vents not opening correctly as well. :/ or even a broken vacuum line could cause AC not to work :/

 

Jump the thermoswitch connector behind the glovebox to prevent the switch from turning off the A/C. Does the A/C now blow cold?

 

Hey RonJ which is the one for the thermoswitch?

 

3 wire connector.

 

The one i found under the glovebox has 3 wires. blue/white, blue/red, black. Which do i connect to jump?

 

Unplug the connector, and jump blue/white to blue/red.

 

Jumped the wires however AC still cycled on and off.

 

When you say the A/C cycles on and off, does the fan cycle or does the clutch cycle or both?

 

Fan stays on. Clutch cycles on and off. on for about 8 seconds then off for about 15 and repeats.

 

Measure the clearance between the compressor pulley and armature plate. Also Ohm test the field coil.

 

Unfortunately I don't have the tools to do that :/

 

Feeler gauges and a multimeter -- Go to Harbor Freight Tools.

 

It should run longer than 8 seconds at a time. I wonder if your high-side pressure is going TOO high causing the high-pressure-safety-switch to shut the compressor down. This would indicate a blockage somewhere in the high side (between the compressor and the expansion valve).

Attach a gauge manifold to both the high side and low side and check your pressures. You can get a "good enough" one at Harbor Freight. Especially with a -20% or -25% coupon.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ult?q=manifold

 

Haven't been able to make it out to harbor freight and such but trying to. The expansion valve is the one under the glove box too right ?

 

Now even thought my lines are cold I would assume that my ac is at least pushing freon correct? I don't know much about the ac system.

 

Yes the expansion valve is attached to the evaporator behind the glove box.

Yes the cold means the compressor IS pushing refrigerant (though only for a few seconds).

It also means several other things:
- you have some refrigerant in the system (at least enough pressure to allow startup)
- your low pressure switch is working
- your AC button is working
- your ECU AC signal is working
- your condenser fan is working
- your AC clutch is working

So if most (if not all) of your system is electrically sound, you won't be able to start diagnosing any mechanical problems without a gauge manifold. Also consider getting yourself a vent thermometer, as well as a R134a can-tap (if/when you need to fill) from Autozone.

Can tap:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=66744_0_0_

Thermometer:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=66749_0_0_

 

Well, in my opinion, he can start diagnosing with feeler gauges and a multimeter.

 

Okay sure. I just figured it would be fine to move on from the clutch since he said it was cycling on & off consistently. No harm in checking out the clutch 1st.

 

This^ might be what you'd expect if the clearance were a bit too wide or the field coil were failing.

 

Ah good to know.

 

Also, if refrigerant pressure were causing the pressure switch to trip, then this could be tested by briefly jumping the pressure switch. Briefly is important as you'd only want to jump long enough to see whether the clutch stops rapidly cycling on and off. Otherwise, the compressor could be damaged.

 

OK after I get off work I should be able to head to harbor freight. I am not sure if thisis a factor as well but the car had a d16y7 and the new engine places in it is a zc engine from Japan. The cac kinds worked before the engine was replaced it just needed to b charged and after the mechanic put the new engine in he said the ac would only work for a little bit but I haven't even seen this yet

 

Hey guys thanks for all the input. Went to harbor freight and wow the tools are cheap, never went there before. anyways as i was checking out the guy asked what i was using them for a told him my problem. Well he recommended me to a shop so i went and they tested everything and they told me the only things that they found were that my blower motor only works of speeds 3/4 and that once the freon hits the evaporator it gets clogged and because the lines leading up to it stay cold in the box that the car temp registers as it being cold enough tripping the compressor to turn on and off.

 

What did this^ cost you?