1998 Civic EX coupe, 163,000 miles

One of the POS previous owners moved the CEL light to an unused socket (also disconnected the SRS warning light) Yes, I should have noticed that those two lights didn't come on when the ignition switch is turned to run. I noticed later in the afternoon after I bought the car.

The transmission shifts smoothly between all gears with no flaring. I cleared the codes a few days ago, but they returned today.

I noticed that the PO overfilled the transmission by an entire quart when I was draining and refilling with Honda ATF. The fluid level is correct now.

I'm getting the P0700 code and the P0740 code. This evening I did a quick troubleshooting of the lock-up solenoid. Resistance was okay, and both solenoids did click when I applied battery voltage, but to me it seemed like weak clicks. I ordered a good used OEM solenoid off ebay for $30 and I'm praying that the correct fluid and the new solenoid clear those codes.

My question is, should I not also be getting the flashing D4 light? The bulb is good because I can see the green box around the D.

On the bright side, a new used cable reel should fix three of my problems: SRS warning light, inoperative cruise control, and inoperative horn.

 

Bump

 

Bump

 

Yep

A DX transmission may have been swapped into the EX.

Google search for posts by 94EG8 on this topic.

 

I verified that it's a B4RA.

 

I received my used ebay knock sensor today. I checked the resistance and applied 12V to each terminal and got clicks. Took me about 15 minutes to replace it. I was hopeful after my first short trip; the codes didn't come back. I took it for a longer drive, and the returned. The factory shop manual flowchart states at this point "replace transmission."

I'm surprised that there isn't any procedures for checking the TCM and wiring harnesses, unless I missed something.

Edit: I didn't mean knock sensor. I meant lock-up solenoid.

 

Tcm built into ecu. When does the code pop up?

 

After the second 3 quart drain-and-fill with Honda ATF, the car has been driven at least 15 miles without the CEL coming back on. After the first d-n-f, it came back on after about 2 miles. I'm cautiously optimistic.

 

Did you ever figure this out? I m having the same issue.

 

It never went away and the transmission is exhibiting some rough behavior, although my son has been driving it every day to school and work ever since we got it for him. I've found a rebuilt transmission and torque converter for $850, and as soon as my son saves $425 for half the cost, I'll order it.