Anyways, want to try this place out and give you guys a shot at my D4 light issue. 92cb7coupe here.
I have done the usual trouble shooting:
drained and fill my tranny fluid, even air pushed fluid from the radiator hoses.
swap put my solenoids.
check my mail relay, looks new since it was replaces 8 years ago.
pulled the TCU, all good, nice and shinny, nothing blown or burn.
My d4 light blinks the following codes:
14
1
2
3
7
8
My car wont start, it just turns, till the d4 light shuts off. Then and only then will it start without any issues, it drives smooth flawless with no slipping or going into limp mode.
Do get back with any idea or possible alternatives solutions.
thanks folks

 

Anyone?

 

DID YOU TRY GOOGLE. there are 3-4 links on this

 

Actually there are more than three hits on google, I saw a crap lode. Other folks d4 light issue, limp mode, slipping gears symptoms are not the same as my d4 light symptom. My car wont start! I went on CB7tunner and some guy wrote up post back in 2008 with the same d4 symptoms as I, but did not come back to post up his finding or solutions. I hate when peeps just leave other hanging.

 

lmao. so what are the codes??? did you fix the codes???? you need to fix codes first diagnose the codes/sensors. then you can see if it still starts after that.

 

Codes are on top of this post, but I can repost. My d4 light blinks the following codes:
14
1
2
3
7
8

I started it up today and it start at the first crank. I let her warm up and then I tried firing up again and the d4 started to blink, and she would bot start. Waited 15 minutes and she started up again with no issues. This is very erratic. Anyone?

 

Gears do not slip. Clutches do.

 

D4 lights suck ride skateboards or BMX bikes LOL j/k
my car will do the same when D4 light blinks no start. my car was also VERY NEGLECTED and needs many new parts seems like the new spark plug wires have fixed most problems since the old ones were 1/4 in. shorter and weren't a tight fit on the plugs. Denso first time fit. the old wires tested OK @ 5.65 average for 4 wires but the Densos tested @ 1.85 avg for 4 wires and they fit in the sparkplug tube. i think the old ones were american made to "fit" honda vehicles but didnt fit very well

 

FIX THOSE CODES

 

1- Sol A
2- Sol B
3- TPS
7- Valve A
8- Valve B
14- FAS wire

Since it would be highly unlikely that these would all would fail at once, I suggest you look at your wiring harness, check the FAS(A18 or A19) wire which is between the TCU-ECU and look for damage or corrosion.
If you are only getting the TPS code from the D4 light, and your CEL light works fine, then there is most likely a communication problem between the ECU and TCU. FAS Wire.

However, AFAIK there is nothing that will prevent the engine from starting if there is a fault with the AT. There is the shifter interlock which will prevent the starter from spining if the shifter is not in P or N. But if the starter spins then the Interlock is working correctly.

I would suspect there may also be a ground issue.
Check your battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify the battery is holding a full charge 12.4V would be ideal.
Verify the battery cable to the transmission is clean and tight.
Verify the ground bonding jumper on the engine mount/valve cover is attached clean and tight.
Verify the engine harness ground cable on the thermostat housing is clean and tight.

If you are positive the Main Relay and fuel pump are working, and that there is spark, I would check the MAP sensor. IIRC if t he map sensor is faulty, has faulty wiring, or is no longer sealing to the manifold it will not allow the engine to start.

 

Mad Mike, Thanks. Your sending me a totally difirent (opposite) way. If I have any question, I will get back at you. If I nail the issue, I will post up.
Thanks again.

 

If there was any recent work done prior to the current issue, recheck the work.
Even seemingly unrelated work may cause issues. e.g. new thermostat requires goofing with the ground wire and that can play hell on the sensor readings.

 

DP

 

I had the d4 issue before I did my 90k tune up: timing belt, water pump, crank & cam oil seals, spark plugs, wires, dizzy & rotter, a/c & p/s belts. Iac valve and intake clean, tranny fluid flush.
I did double check the connection/wires on the solenoids, took them apart and noticed they were hook up with a kink in them, so I rerouted them so they would not be kinking or folded up weird. My d4 light still turns on, but its a lot quicker for it to stop blinking and starts a lot quicker.
I believe Im getting there. Gonna double check my Main relay with magnifying glass to look for minute fractures. I will post up later.

 

Its bee two days since my car has not shut off.

 

and what codes are in the ecu now? now that we know what codes were in it its safe to say you should pull the ecu fuse and reset the ecu let it re learn the new codes.

 

could also be fuel pump. check this out


this guy never had D4 light issue tho. just a heads up

 

D4 light came on today, its turning off once a week and I notices that it faster now for the d4 to shut off.
Nice video, very help full.
I did take out my back up radio to reset the ecu.
Don't know if this is related but when my car is running, I can hear clicking sound with in the dash board and it wont stop, Im not sure where its coming from.
Any idea?
Thanks

 

What codes are still appearing?

 

this thread is a fail haha