I have a 1991 CRX Si, bought new from the dealer with 43k miles

As one thing leads to another I had not started the car for at least ten years (last registration was in 1999)
Last month I decided to bring it to life once more, it's been time consuming to say the least, but as far it's being satisfactory.
a few years back some of my friends wanted to "help" and tried to start the car, they did forget that the alarm system was there and started messing with everything.

Anyway, to make a longer story short, after removing all the alarm/security system and fixing the wiring mess, found that there was no spark.
Changed in order, module, coil, rotor cap and rotor, still no spark whatsoever, swapped the whole distributor and got spark right away (still wondering what can be wrong on the original one)

Next step was fuel...
Fuel pump was shot, a ball of rust, so after removing the gas tank and cleaning it a new pump went in, not after cleaning all the fuel lines by blowing compressed air. New fuel filter went in.



Then the injectors got a good cleaning and with some electric pulsing got them back to work.

The car, although rough, started and ran fairly well.



Next was the High idle control valve, a good cleaning and it all went back in.

The car was still running rough and bad idle, some Seafoam went into the tank and with a spray bottle almost half a can into the throttle/manifold.

Some MMO went into the cylinders and left overnight, new plugs in and the engine sounded much,much better.

quick oil change and filter (the old one has a rust hole and was spraying the engine compartment and alternator)

The idle diaphragm was iffy, so I opened it up and gave it a clean as well.

Next went the gas pressure valve, which I changed to a loaned adjustable one since I still could not get decent idle and the car was bogging down.

Added a few gallons of gas (seems like after emptying the tank, $10 are nothing these days) and the bogging stopped..

The only problem I have is that now the car is up at 3,000 rpms and constant So I need to solve that. Any clues? Help?

Could it be the fuel pressure valve being too high?

Checked for vacuum leaks and found none, pinched the booster line, pulled all the other vacuum hoses and cleaned them with compressed air.. Still no change.

Next up is flushing the radiator, giving it a couple rounds with water and finally adding coolant. Then will be bleeding and replacing brake fluid.

Sorry for the long thread...
Is there anything that I might be forgetting?

Clutch is fine as well as going through the gears.

 

Time to clean the car up a bit

 

....That's beautiful. This will be one amazing car.

Idle Air Control Valve may cause this when dirty. Also, Fast Idle Thermo Valve can cause this while warming up to operating temps. A quick google search how to clean IACV or FITV will find you a thread on this site. If it's not a vacuum leak that's probably the issue.

 

Idle air I did clean already, but can do so again, Fast Idle Thermo Valve will be next, although I disconnected the hose and cleaned/checked for vacuum leaks

If I place a finger on the throttle body hole (inside left side) the car bogs down until it dies.
Read that the hole in the TB is connected to the Thermo Valve?

Thanks for the hints

 

Got the OEM wheels out of storage.. mice/rats seem to have lived there happy for a few years..
So they will need a good repaint

 

No problem. The FITV is a pain in the butt. Makes sense that they deleted it in the years to come.

The wheels look rough. Nothing a little degreaser and sand paper can't solve. Just take your time and do layers. If you can remove the tire and really get the lip of the rim, that'd be great.

 

Cleaned the idle control valve once more, there was some stuff on the screen, and removed to inspect the thermal valve, (nothing out of the ordinary)
Still had pegged revs around 2 to 3 thousand RPMs
Drove the car a bit down the driveway and the idle went down, but started to go "up and down" between 1-2 thousand rpm's


What else can I do?

 

map sensor. check your injectors. make sure their clicking on off, they may be stuck on and constant spraying fuel into the chamber. this could easily cause your idle issue. it may be just 1 injector. do the screwdriver trick metal tip to injector plastic handle to ear. listen for the clicking should be click click click click click. if its stuck open or close. in your case it would be open u would hear nothing maybe a constant spraying sound but i doubt it. another thing is to check for a rich smell at the pipe.

 

No rich smell, I will double check on the injectors.
Could it be caused by too much fuel pressure?
Thanks for the response

 

It could be the PVC valve either not seated properly, broken, or the vacuum line to it is damaged. I know you said you checked vacuum, but it also sounds like it could be a bad vacuum hose leaking. They are cheap to replace so you might as well change them all out.. It will cost less than $10 probably.

 

Where's the PVC? (PCV?)

 

Got it.. at the manifold close to the injectors, fuel pressure valve

 

Fuel pressure valve was the culprit? Was it the actual valve or the vacuum line? Glad you figured it out.

 

Nope..Still no solution
have not been able to check it out, but as soon as I find the culprit (or culprits) will post it here in detail..

 

Believe it or not, either you messed up the seals on the IACV and/or FITV................. OR your IACV is working and your idle adjustment screw is too loose making your idle high. Your IACV maintains the idle at 750 unless acted upon by another force such as leaks or the other components. If you have your idle adjustment screw turned counter clockwise too much, then you would just need to turn the adjustment screw clockwise until your rpm is set to 750. It's a screw located on the throttlebody, flathead screw. When my cars idle is too high, it will bounce up and down after every stop on idle. So I have to set the screw back down. My idle screw is jiffy so I usually dab some gasket maker in there to keep it in the same place

If you want to do it the proper way, unplug the IACV connector and your car will run funny by the way and pull an engine code, and adjust your idle to 500, then when you plug your IACV back in, or turn off the car and plug it back in and start up the car, you should be idling 750 +-50.If it's more than 50 then you can adjust your idle screw as necessary. If your car still revs up and down, then you got some vaccuum leaks

 

Thanks RanCRX
I have not touched the idle screw, it is as it came from the dealer.
Might have been something I've done, so I dont want to mess with the idle untill I run out of "other" probables.

There is a hole in the throttle body outer "lip" that if I cover it with my finger the rmps go considerably down until it dies..

 

LINK:
http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php

Ben's webpage (EF-Honda.com) is amazing. He really put a lot of effort into everything you would ever want to know. From engine swaps, to interchangeable parts, to troubleshooting, to his own OBD0 ROM editor; he has wrote about all of it.

I am nearly positive your idle issue is the FITV. Maybe yours has gone bad, beyond fixing, and needs replacement.

 

Got an FITV on the race car's spares box
Will try it out..

 

Changed FITV's and still the same...
Will keep on looking..