B16a slow low end
So I've had this car for 5 months now b16a first gen 96 civic hatch, when I first got the car someone messed the wiring up vtec wasn't working and small other issues..drive shaft, Vtec pressure switch wasn't even hooked up right and it had no O2 sensor.
Had 5 codes when I put a check engine light bulb back in the cluster. But what do you get for 1500$ haha.
Well I've fixed everything no codes anymore and so I brought it to the track. Best I could get out of it was a 15.8 and the car felt really laggy in low to mid range rpm.
When I do a 3rd gear pull from 2k rpm if kinda feels like there's power then goes jumpy a bit. After 4500rpm if feels good.
Car has dc header, yonaka header back, no cat, short ram intake p28 ecu chipped and slight tune off p30 map.
I got home and switched ecu's to a Jdm p30 and same problem...
If someone could help me it would be great... Aem wideband says 13.4a/f in low rpm and 12.6 after vtec kicks in....Yo
I'm not a vary good explainer so don't bash me I work on my car and understand it just need help
Had 5 codes when I put a check engine light bulb back in the cluster. But what do you get for 1500$ haha.
Well I've fixed everything no codes anymore and so I brought it to the track. Best I could get out of it was a 15.8 and the car felt really laggy in low to mid range rpm.
When I do a 3rd gear pull from 2k rpm if kinda feels like there's power then goes jumpy a bit. After 4500rpm if feels good.
Car has dc header, yonaka header back, no cat, short ram intake p28 ecu chipped and slight tune off p30 map.
I got home and switched ecu's to a Jdm p30 and same problem...
If someone could help me it would be great... Aem wideband says 13.4a/f in low rpm and 12.6 after vtec kicks in....Yo
I'm not a vary good explainer so don't bash me I work on my car and understand it just need help
So you just recently started having power loss in the low end? Probably the old butt dyno.
My B16A felt like an unchained beast when I got it running. Now I can definitely feel how slow it is sub 4,000 RPM or so. Maybe you just got use to the power.
Check your compression if this is something new. Maybe your timing is off or something. Just go through and do a tune up. Could be bad gas for all we know.
Your AFRs seem fine to me. I'd try a stock map though. I tried a 'tuned stock B16A' map and it was garbage compared to stock. Just too rich and it ran poor.
My B16A felt like an unchained beast when I got it running. Now I can definitely feel how slow it is sub 4,000 RPM or so. Maybe you just got use to the power.
Check your compression if this is something new. Maybe your timing is off or something. Just go through and do a tune up. Could be bad gas for all we know.
Your AFRs seem fine to me. I'd try a stock map though. I tried a 'tuned stock B16A' map and it was garbage compared to stock. Just too rich and it ran poor.
Yeah it was a little rich before at WOT 7000rpm it was at running rich with my tuned computer. I cleaned injectors and timed it a little advanced, and using a Jdm p30 ecu. Apparently the rev limiter is a little higher and vtec is at 5800 rpm
Car feels better now but going to do a compression test next weekend I want to run in the 14's if compression test is good I think it's time for motor work.
I have 2k to spend any suggestions?
Car feels better now but going to do a compression test next weekend I want to run in the 14's if compression test is good I think it's time for motor work.
I have 2k to spend any suggestions?
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A stockish B16 won't make much power past 7600 rpm, so shifting at 8500 doesn't earn you JDM point from the track timer. Vtec at 5800 is about 800rpm too high, that could help make it quicker. Having too much timing can acatually cost power, so try a run with it reduced 2 & 4 degrees.
Many B's are past worn because people toss in a "chip" that runs too lean or rich. Most of the time a stock program will be safer and even make more power than a generic chip.
My suggestion for $2k is to build a mild LS or B20 bottom end and get a decent header. Shotpeen the stock rods, toss on ARP bolts, then have a shop check them for roundness (hone them if needed). Keep the B16 intake, it is better than an ITR intake until you get some large cams (or more displacement). Get GSR cams if they're free or ITR cams if they're a good deal and not worn.
Many B's are past worn because people toss in a "chip" that runs too lean or rich. Most of the time a stock program will be safer and even make more power than a generic chip.
My suggestion for $2k is to build a mild LS or B20 bottom end and get a decent header. Shotpeen the stock rods, toss on ARP bolts, then have a shop check them for roundness (hone them if needed). Keep the B16 intake, it is better than an ITR intake until you get some large cams (or more displacement). Get GSR cams if they're free or ITR cams if they're a good deal and not worn.
I can get a b20 motor any day for 200$ Couple people rocking them here, what one should I look for? And I know I'm in the N/A section but I was planning on turboing the b16 if it still has good compression
If you want to 'build' a B20, then it doesnt matter what block you get, because you are going to be replacing the pistons anyway.
Simple B20V ~200whp recipe:
B20 block
ITR rep pistons
ARP rod bolts
ARP headstuds
Vtev head
ITR cams (or bigger, with matching valve springs)
Simple B20V ~200whp recipe:
B20 block
ITR rep pistons
ARP rod bolts
ARP headstuds
Vtev head
ITR cams (or bigger, with matching valve springs)
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