I replace both front end with new wheel bearing and hub, cause the drive side was bad. It was shaking side to side if you have it up in the air with a jack. Only a few days later the driver side is bad again, has anyone have this issue? What might cost it to keep doing this? Also a friend of mine has a 94 accord and he also has this issue. He said that that's his third time replacing his wheel bearing and hub. Help please, I need to take this car for a road trip 15 hrs drive... thanks,

 

coil overs or lowering springs?

 

What brand wheel bearing did you use? Timken is the NTN(OEM) brand.

When reinstalled, did you correctly torque all the fasteners? The stub axle nut needs to be torqued to 181lbft.

Are you sure the ball joints are not worn? Usually replace the lower BJ when it is time to replace the wheel bearing.

Need more info as to why you think the wheel bearing is wasted. How many miles are on the current wheel bearing.

 

I also have an issue like this. I believe its the intermediate shaft on my 5speed and or a bent rim. My car is lowered and correctly aligned and I did the bearing replacements myself.

 

As mad mike said it could be a loose ball joint or possibly a tie rod end, as both will cause play side to side. If an upper ball joint is the case I recommend the whole uca since it's stamped metal and I've had 50/50 results when just pressing in a new balljoint because it came unseated (not my personal choice but after I fill out a work order it's on my boss from there) and had to redo them so it's easier to do it right the first time

 

You may have misread, he's talking about the wheel having play side to side when the car is in the air...I believe you're thinking of a steering wheel vibration, which could be either of those that you mentioned or something as simple as a bad wheel balance

 

well i did quickly read it haha. I understand the wheel moving from 9-5 due to bearing issues or tie rod. Im getting movement while watching all the way down to the rotor spinning on a rack. It ultimately ends up in the steering wheel as you say. Just a hell of a shake then goes away at high speed and is made worse at speed when turning the wheel tighter

 

It's on stock spring and sturts not lower. No I didn't use torque spec on any of the fastener, I just use the air gun and no I got those hub and bearing set from ebay. It's not oem for sure, cause I had to grind the hub so it'll fit the rotor. The time I replace the hub and bearing I also replace both side outer tie rods and I didn't do the lower ball joint which I should have. But just yesterday I did both front side lower ball joint. At the moment I'm trying to get a hold of eBay and get me another set on the driver side with hub and bearing. Hopefully it's the lower ball joint that was causing it. Thanks guys.. I'll keep it a update

 

Okay guys, update... so went to autozone got the new bearing, fit the movement part of the drive side wheel... took it around the block. Everything looks fine until I took for a road trip 2 hrs there and 2 hrs back. Came home and Jack it up in the air, check the drive side wheel and guess what it's moving side to side again if you grab on to the tire. Sigh, I need the car like now for a 14 hrs road trip. Someone give me any idea what would cause that. Sorry if I didn't mention it's not a stock motor it has a f20b in it. Not sure if it would matter. So please help..

 

When you take everything apart, if the wheel bearing is that bad, it will be sloppy when you remove all the components.
What are you torquing all of the fasteners(bolts/nuts) to?

 

Yes, I took everything apart the first time when it was acting up and I notice it was the wheel bearing. So I replace the bearing and it went away. And like I said I drove it around the block everything seem to be fine, until I took it for a four hrs road trip. Yeah I hang torque everything beside the wheel lug nut.

 

You guys think it'll be a good idea if I just take it out for a 14 hrs with that kind of bearing problems? I'm getting mad and about to take it. Would it be a chance of wheel flying in the high way? Sigh I can't think of anything else... could it be the axles?

 

How did you remove the old wheel bearing from the hub?

Was the new bearing pre-installed on the new hub when you purchased it?

Did you verify the bearing flange is tight against the knuckle, and not getting caught up on the brake backing plate? I ask because I recently replaced the bearings (Moog) and rotors (NAPA Premium) on my '95, and I remember the bearing's flange just barley fit through the backing plate's opening, so if the backing plate's flange/lip got crushed and flattened when reinstalling the bearing, that may account for some sloppiness and misalignment.

Could just be poor quality bearings, too. Can you post the eBay link to the bearings/hubs you purchased?

 

How did the hub look when you pressed in the new bearing?

 

The first replacement was ebay hub and bearing. The second replacement was still a ebay hub with autozone bearing. How did I remove the old bearing from the hub? I use a press by setting the rotor/break disc on a two plate material. Then the old bearing brake half it's bearing onto the hub, which I have to cut the piece that broke onto the hub. Then I put the new bearing by pressing it to the hub.

 

Timken is the bearing brand name, I believe. I'll get the ebay site up... I can't fine it at the moment.

 

Bump, this is like the six time replacing it. I lost track of replacing the bearing.