So I did some maintenance on my aunt's 1994 Honda accord. I replaces the rear main seal, oil pump, timing belt, tensioners, and water pump. I got everything done and started to work on the T-Belt. I follow the steps on "https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1908944" and on the Honda service manual, but I still kind of have a little play in the belt. Either the back will be tight and the front will be loose or visa versa. I was wondering if this was normal?

Also another question is my timing belt kit did not come with new springs, and I was thinking maybe that has something to do with it?

Another thing on Step 28 on the T-Belt sticky, he says to "Lock the timing belt tensioner in place by installing one of the 6x1.0mm bolt from the side covers." which I see where he is talking about, but my tensor wing is way past the threads to do that, so I'm kind of confused from here on.

Any help would be appreciated it!

 

Did you rotate the engine counter clockwise to remove the slack from the belt?
Did you purchase the correct belt for your engine?
F22B1(VTEC) and F22B2 engines use different timing belts lengths.

 

Yes I did the 5-6 revs counter clockwise which is going toward the radiator support. It still had slack on either side like I said.

That's something I should check, didn't know that small tidbit! Thanks!

BUT if the belt is right, is this something that is normal? Or is it suppose to be tight on both sides?

 

If the belt is too long, then the belt will never tighten.
When initially rotating the engine counter clockwise, it is to take the slack out of the belt between the cam and crank sprockets. Spring loaded tensioneers are to take up the slack and maintain the correct tension where you can then tighten the large acorn nut to set the timing.

Then you rotate the engine over several times to verify that the belt cogs are correctly aligned to maintain correct cam to crank timing. Lines on the cam sprocket, notch on the crank.
If that timing is incorrect then you will need to reset the belt and check again.
You do not spin the engine prior to setting the tensioneers. When you rotate the engine to set the tension you are merely removing the slack.

If you were to spin the engine with the tensioneers loose the force of the valve springs may force the cam to advance, which would cause slack in the belt on the side you are trying to tension.

I usually get the sprockets aligned, put the belt on, and just turn the crank enough to remove the slack(3 teeth or so), then I set the tension, and then I spin the crank over twice and verify that the timing marks are aligned.

When done right there will be no slack in the belt, but also the belt will not be tensioned more than what the force of rotating the crank causes on the leading side, nor any excess tension from beyond the spring loaded tensionners on the trailing side. Applying artificial tension will only cause excessive wear and side loading.

 

Here is my problem..I called up there and got them to check my receipt and see if they gave me the right part...and they didn't. Guess I should of checked in the first place, but also they should of gave me the right part

Anyways I appreciate it man! Always helps I have someone else's insight.