Likelihood of Jumping a Tooth by Hand-Spinning Flywheel
Just like the title says - I recently replaced my clutch / machined my flywheel, and the springs on the old clutch were worn out pretty bad. I heard the springs rattling around once I got the transmission off, and spun the flywheel two rotations counter-clockwise before I actually removed the pressure plate / clutch disc. Now, I was thinking I was fine because I was spinning counter-clockwise, then I realized that by spinning the flywheel side counter-clockwise, the timing belt side was spinning clockwise.
I have everything back together and was driving it today, and all seemed well, but I also was second-guessing everything. Wanted to be sure I did everything right and had no leaks, so I was checking my oil, and checked to make sure my transmission fluid stayed full because I also replaced two axle seals.
Basically, I need to know if it would feel super obvious if I jumped a tooth, and if there's any easier way to check besides removing the valve cover / lower cover and checking the timing that way.
I have everything back together and was driving it today, and all seemed well, but I also was second-guessing everything. Wanted to be sure I did everything right and had no leaks, so I was checking my oil, and checked to make sure my transmission fluid stayed full because I also replaced two axle seals.
Basically, I need to know if it would feel super obvious if I jumped a tooth, and if there's any easier way to check besides removing the valve cover / lower cover and checking the timing that way.
you won't notice a tooth feel wise but you can always check. As for spinning it and jumping a tooth not unless your timing belt was extremely loose.
Alright - well is the only way to check basically taking it all the way down to the timing belt? Removing the VC / upper cover / upper mount / lower mount / belts / crankshaft pulley / lower cover?
Timing belt shouldn't have been loose, but I couldn't get the tightening procedure that's outlined in the manual to work for me, so I ended up holding the tensioner tight with my hand and tightening it by feel, that way. It's been fine for the past 7k or so miles that I've been driving on it, though.
Timing belt shouldn't have been loose, but I couldn't get the tightening procedure that's outlined in the manual to work for me, so I ended up holding the tensioner tight with my hand and tightening it by feel, that way. It's been fine for the past 7k or so miles that I've been driving on it, though.
If you spin it the wrong direction, it's entirely possible to make it jump timing - you'd be working against the tensioner, instead of with it.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
You don't need to pull the whole front apart to check though. pop the valve cover up, roll the crank around until tdc mark is at the pointer and check the cams.
Taking the valve cover off is literally six (forgot the ground strap) 10mm bolts and it comes right off. You should just check it instead of guessing.
Last edited by tastypotato; Jun 26, 2014 at 02:54 PM. Reason: six, not five!
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I thought the only way to see the crank is at TDC is to take off the crank pulley bolt - don't you have to ensure that the little "key" is at the 12 'o clock position, or that the small hole on the crank pulley lines up with the mark on the block?
I know the cam gear has the "up" cast on it, with the two marks that line up with the cover, but what about the crank gear?
I know the cam gear has the "up" cast on it, with the two marks that line up with the cover, but what about the crank gear?
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
I thought the only way to see the crank is at TDC is to take off the crank pulley bolt - don't you have to ensure that the little "key" is at the 12 'o clock position, or that the small hole on the crank pulley lines up with the mark on the block?
I know the cam gear has the "up" cast on it, with the two marks that line up with the cover, but what about the crank gear?
I know the cam gear has the "up" cast on it, with the two marks that line up with the cover, but what about the crank gear?
Are you saying there should already be a mark on the flywheel that somehow also indicates the TDC? Because I just got the flywheel machined and I don't remember seeing any such mark. I know it's easy enough to pull off the upper timing belt cover and verify when the cam gear lines up / the UP points up, but I'm worried about making sure the crank is lined up exactly. As far as I know there aren't any markings on the harmonic balancer / lower timing belt cover, so short of sticking a straw in the #1 cylinder and waiting until it's at the highest point, how can I verify that the crank is at TDC without removing the entire lower cover and every pulley / belt involved?
no problem. there is the group of three, ignore them. just after that group there is a lone mark, that is the one you want to use
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