Hey guys,

I have a 97 Accord LX with about 186k on the clock.

Main symptoms are starting when cold is usually fine. Then after some time idling or driving it just dies. Then trying to restart is a nightmare - after oh maybe 20 starts it will start again and run drive anywhere from 20 ft to 100 yards and die again. Same restarting issues to follow.

I did some digging and noticed the ECU was for the EX vtec engine. Swapped that to the non-vtec since we have a vtec code. Also, has an o2 sensor CEL which I will fix but I doubt that has any impact on this. I also replaced the main relay thinking it was the fuel pump signal dropping. But that did not fix anything either..

Did some research and some think it's the ignition Control module. Does this seem feasable in this scenario? Any input is appreciated!

 

if it is the ICM, anyone have good experience with a particular brand?

 

Brands dont tend to matter when it comes to icm's but if its me i would just pull one from the junkyard.

 

do think its probably the ICM or could it be the ignition Switch you think?

 

You will know if it's the ignition switch because the dash lights will turn off as well since they are part of the same switched power.

When it's not starting if you check for power at the small connector going to the starter and there is no power when the key is turned to the start position it's likely the ignition switch faulty.

 

Thanks, Manny! Really appreciate the information. I am unsure if the dash lights go off was always bright outside when looking at it. But thats the cheapest part to replace thankfully. I will test tonight when its dark to see if the light goes off with it. Ordered the switch and the distributor - starting with the switch first.

 

Also, I am going to get the fuel filter swapped out - Im sure the previous moronic owners never touched it in it's entire life (186K).

 

It's really best to do a couple tests. It could very well be the main relay as well. You can get a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight for only $20 and you can take it back when you are done and just pay the 15 percent restocking fee so it's like 5 bucks total. You just need to hook it up and close the hood on it when it on the windshield facing you so you can see what the fuel pressure looks like as the car dies.

At the same time if the fuel filter is clogged this test will tell you, but fuel filters really don't cause any major drivability issues even when clogged up.

 

Found a clip of a bad Ignition Switch on Youtube showing my EXACT symptoms. Waiting for it to come in (now USPS shows monday its being delivered). I am actually pretty amped that ill finally be able to drive the car..

 

very rare for an oem ignition switch to go bad with so little miles but gl

 

This car was beat to crap - i honestly don't trust the odometer's reading what-so-ever. So, here's to hoping it works!

 

OK, just an update - the Ignition Switch was the problem! Replaced it and all has been well since! (knock on wood)