h22a swap problems help!
This is my first motor swap so please dont be to harsh lol. I just swapped a h22a with a built top end into my 93 lude. The first time I started it it had a really bad miss and idled at 1900. I put new plugs and wires and it still idled high but there was no miss. I took it for a test drive and if I tried to go past 1/4 throttle it started to spit and sputter and lurch and it had no power to go up hills. I took it back home and now it has a little miss and sound like crap when I rev it. A friend pulled my plugs and said its not getting enough fuel. I got a p28 ecu tuned for the engine and 440cc Injectors that are ev1 but I eliminated the resistor box like I was told to do bug I could really use some imput on how to fix this and get my idle down
Update I had a bad plug wire so now it idles smooth and does not miss or spit and sputter when I drive it but it now idles higher at 2300 and it feels like it still has a lack of power when I step on the gas
Agree with what holmesnmanny is saying and also it sounds like whoever tuned your car didn't take a look into fixing the high idle issue, that is way too high, when you should be idling at 750-850 rpm. When you say tuned is it dyno/street tuned, or do you just have just a basemap on your p28? That could be the issue just a bad tune/map is what its sounding like.
It has cams and lifters and pretty much everything in the top end done I took it for a long test trive and now it idles lower at 1300 and has a little more power but not like it should and you can barley feel vtec hit my friend pulled the plugs and said its running lean and I got the ecu from ebay and I told them what was going into the motor and they tune it so I guess that is just a basemap
now I use the top part of my H23 intake but the engine only had a spot for to cooling lines and the intake had 4 and I looped it all together so one line flows through both sensors and back into the motor so its one big loop but could that be causing my high idle problem
Sounds like it could have a vacuum leak, or an issue with the fitv or iacv, which are both on that coolant loop you describe. Also make sure your throttle cable is adjusted correctly, and your tps is set right.
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Ok I know the throttle cable is ok how do I check those other sensors and I put on a adjustable fpr today and it has alot more power but vtec isnt hitting as hard as it should I have it set at 50lbs should I increase the pressure
Im No expert but I did a JDM H22a swap into my lude and had idle issues and my vtec was not kicking in at all. and triple checked everything and realized the vtec plug was not fully plugged in
and there was a little vacuum line that came unplugged and it fixed everything! ha, but I still had a brake booster and master cylinder leak so the idle purged. Good luck with it !!!
and there was a little vacuum line that came unplugged and it fixed everything! ha, but I still had a brake booster and master cylinder leak so the idle purged. Good luck with it !!!
I cleaned the sensor below the throttle body and I had the coolant lines backword and that dropped it to about 1000 for a while now its back up to 1500 and I tried to callabrate the tps and it had 4.5 volts closed which is right but it stayed at 4.5 fully opened but its supposed to be 5 at wot so I dont know what that means
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ay_billy
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Dec 21, 2011 03:35 PM



