Just purchased my 2nd Civic and 3rd Honda. ******* great vehicles. Anyways, CEL was on in the car when I bought it, guy claims it was oxygen sensor. Drove the car about 5 days. Had low idle problems, maybe 100-300 RPMs. So yesterday I take it to advanced auto parts and have them check the codes. Misfires on all cylinders as well as multiple misfires and oxygen sensor. Bought ignition coil (recommended by Chris at AAP), plugs, and oxygen sensor, NOT universal, 112 bucks. Replaced the oxygen sensor today and the plugs. Still idling low. When i say low, it got WORSE, it just stalled on me while at a stop sign. A little gas got it going again. I'm about to do that iavc*? clean and if that doesn't work, replace the ignition coil. Is this a good place to start. I'm now extremely worried I got a bad deal. Also, the car hasn't misfired since I've been driving it. What would cause it to throw the misfire codes on all cylinders if its not misfiring? Trying to think of some other details. I'll be around all day and will most definitely be checking back periodically.

*edit*

Forgot to mention, when I start the car up, doesn't even have to be cold, just off then back on, it idles fine. Only after I've driven for five to ten minutes does it begin idling low.

Funny enough, if I turn on my A/C the car idles normally and drives better... I'm kind of thinking it might be my fuel filter. I'm going to check my o2 sensor fuse right now and see where that gets me.

 

Iacv, and reset ecu.

 

Uhhhh I don't have an iacv...

https://i.imgur.com/LlVdmvr.jpg

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c1528018f5a3

 

So are you saying, by way of the link, I'm looking in the wrong place? Its not there.

Edit: derp, found it. :D
Motor vs valve. The details.

 

Don't be silly, every Honda has an iacv.

 

Is it possible someone thought to replace my iacv with a motor instead of a valve? Or am I just not getting far enough under the throttle body to see it? Instead of that metal piece, I'm seeing a wire harness connected to a single, triangular plastic piece. No hoses or anything. Would someone really replace a stock part with a completely different aftermarket piece?

Also I'm trying to locate my pcv valve as well and can't find it for the life of me from the topside of the engine. D16y8. Is that only reachable from under the car?

Thanks.

 

crap distributor or out of time. check mechanical timing, but id start with your distributor.

 

In the pic I posted, is that not where the iacv should be? I feel like someone put a different part there. Instead of the metal piece is a plastic triangle and wire harness...

Distributer looks new. Almost looks to me as if someone tossed a bunch of money at the engine looking for a fix to this issue and gave up. New OEM air filter housing. New cap. New radiator and fan. As well as new hoses all around the vehicle... I need to take it somewhere but I don't trust many of the mechanics I've been to. :/


So far my things to do are:
Locate and clean iacv
Locate and clean pcv valve
Distributer cap
Timing

Needs help locating Iacv and pcv pics aren't helping. Maybe I need a map? :p doubt I could read one of them engine see through maps anyways haha.

Edit so I just read the d16y8 automatic iacv is different from the manual transmission. I have a automatic tranny. Can someone post a pic of the iacv on a 4 SPD auto 2000 ex?

 

What do your plugs look like? That'd be the first thing to check to see if you're running lean, rich, burning oil, etc. Also post all the codes you had listed at AAP. I'd clear the codes, pull the back up fuse, and see what comes back. Also set your idle according to the FAQ above. Also is your car manual or auto? The IACV on autos is on the throttle body and manuals on the back of the intake manifold.

 

There is alot of useful information in the FAQ section of this forum right above the threads here. You'll see it in the dark highlights. Go to that and click on the particular link for cleaning your iacv, and perhaps the link on how to check and adjust your tps. They have pictures and desciptions that should help you out.

 

http://imgur.com/VFiiWL7

http://imgur.com/3pO1t6d

Is that my iacv underneath my throttle body? I plan on removing my throttlebody to be cleaned and would like to knock out and clean my iacv in the same swing.

(I'm gonna bite my ******* fingers off I hate this phone copy paste crap! Ahhhhhhhhh!)

http://imgur.com/L3xGViXh

http://imgur.com/GIbJmDPh

 

iacv will not cause as many misfire codes as you have, a **** distributor or bad timing will. i cannot tell you how many new aftermarket distributors i have thrown in the garbage in my years of working on these cars. vatozone/aa/oriellys all have the same hencho en mexico trash, it all fails within 2 years.

 

My actual plugs looked just fine. The male part that inserts into the engine was not discolored or anything. I cleared all my codes after the o2 sensor was replaced. Cel came back last night... shut car off, no cel. Get back in car and hour later, turn over, cel on. Haven't had the chance to recheck codes. I'll get to that after work today. Thanks for the replies. I'll tinker w the idle screw tonight as well. Once I'm able to actually locate that damnable IAC I'll clean that bitch out.

@eghatch9295 I like that answer my friend. I like it a lot. I'm sure its not an OEM piece so I'll definitely check that out. I'm sure a lot of people have the right idea and the wrong/bad part and rule it out because its been replaced. Also, can you recommend a decent dist cap? Or is OEM the only way?

 

i dont mind parts store caps/rotors, but thats it ignition wise. ngk or denso wires, ngk plugs, oem distributors only.

 

According to the 96 - 2000 Civic FSM your manifold doesn't have a IACV in the stock Manual Transmission location. Your car is an automatic I assume? Page 245 of the PDF - 9-4 Of the manual.

http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto...e%20Manual.zip

 

Page 459 of the pdf, 11-190 of the manual. In the middle of the page there is a picture labeled D16Y5 (CVT), D16Y8 engine (A/T) that shows a rotary style IAC Valve.

 

Im with EG on this one. Replace with a new Honda distributor. If it still idles like crap then check the IACV.

 

Can I get a part number for the distributor? I know there's a lot of different parts in that location of the engine. Coils, wires, etc. What exactly and I trying to buy? The cap? Or is it something inside the black cap? I bought a ~40 dollar ignition coil. Should I replace that before buying a cap? I'd like OEM, but damn, 300 bucks!?

 

Replace the distributor with an OEM one.

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...artsSearch.jsp

Use that to find the OEM part numbers.

 

If I took my whip to a shop, could they test the distributor cause 300 bucks on a maybe seems ridiculous.

 

Should have been step #1 in this case. Or else you could have Googled how to do it yourself.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...%20distributor

 

Roger that. I figured replacing o2 sensor would have fixed the idle and cel misifre codes. I haven't spent any money on anything else other than plugs, o2 sensor and coil. Whichll probably be going back tonight. Thanks for the help guys. I'd really like to keep the car out of any shops as I feel most mechanics try to hustle stuff you don't need but I don't know anything. Wish I could pay one of y'all to check my stuff out and give me a straight forward, no bullshit answer. Anyone live in the kc metro?

 

You will want to check for good shops in your area. Most places will charge either hourly for a diag or flat rate. Flat rate shops can be iffy because the tech isn't motivated to work on it, but the charge is usually folded into the replacement of the part if you get the work done on the same day. Then again if they charge hourly you may end up paying a good chunk of change just for a diag. Either way if you have the shop do the work make sure they use Honda OEM parts. Yes they will charge you list price for the part so you will pay more to have them do it + labor. Support local shops, the big chain stores (midas / firestone) will tend to bone you. If you don't know how to do the work then find a good mechanic that you trust.