b18b valve cover stud bolts
The machine threaded studs that stick throught the valve cover are messed up on my car. How do i go about replacing them? They are the ones you have to tighten a nut on top of a washer to clamp down the valve cover. thanks
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
save that site it will help you tons in the future.
save that site it will help you tons in the future.
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
save that site it will help you tons in the future.
save that site it will help you tons in the future.
I bought acorn nuts and put new ones on. The same problem still occurs. The nut tightens to a certain point (not very tight at all) and then spins freely. The new and old ones both do that. I tried putting two washers on the stud to possibly still tighten it down by bypassing the stripped part by sacrificing some thread holding power but the same problem still occured higher up on the stud. I'm confused. What do i do? Are these some kind of torque sensitive nuts/studs that won't allow you to overtighten them? Also, are they 4 mm nuts/studs or are they an SAE unit? I was at menards and using the bolt sizing chart i got it to thread onto 4 mm fine, and 1/4 - 20 coarse as well (not as good of a fit.) 4mm fine nuts seem to fit on the studs. Do i need to replace the studs? If so, how do i go about doing it?
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If you overtighten the cap nuts the studs will stretch and will literally twist like a Twizzler. The studs are not tight in the head so you can easily get them out if you get a grip on them. Since they are already toast just use some vice grips. Honda sells replacements for not much money but make sure you get the right ones because they are not all the same parts number. For reinstallation hand-tight is all you need. I don't remember the torque spec but anything past "snug" will stretch them. Definitely be careful if you use a wrench. These things are very soft.
90002-PH3-000 #8 90002-PH3-000 #9 90003-PH3-000 #10 90003-PH3-000 #11
just save your car model on the website it should have linked the list at the bottom but it didn't.
just save your car model on the website it should have linked the list at the bottom but it didn't.
So these are like threaded on the bottom, with a smooth shank, then threaded on the top with an acorn nut and a special formed washer beneath it to sit into the valve cover?
See this link:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
Here's the relevant image from that link:

Part number 18 is the one you want (21 and 23 are the nut and washer, respectively). 18 should just screw out of the head, and the new ones ought to screw back in again. Easy-peasy, lemon squeezy.
When installing 18, it is tightened to SIXTEEN FOOT POUNDS ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
23 is tightened to SEVEN FOOT POUNDS ONLY!
Buy a cheapo beam-type torque wrench at Harbor Freight and USE IT.
The other young feller appears to have given you links and part numbers to entirely the wrong part.
See this link:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
Here's the relevant image from that link:

Part number 18 is the one you want (21 and 23 are the nut and washer, respectively). 18 should just screw out of the head, and the new ones ought to screw back in again. Easy-peasy, lemon squeezy.
When installing 18, it is tightened to SIXTEEN FOOT POUNDS ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
23 is tightened to SEVEN FOOT POUNDS ONLY!
Buy a cheapo beam-type torque wrench at Harbor Freight and USE IT.
See this link:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
Here's the relevant image from that link:

Part number 18 is the one you want (21 and 23 are the nut and washer, respectively). 18 should just screw out of the head, and the new ones ought to screw back in again. Easy-peasy, lemon squeezy.
When installing 18, it is tightened to SIXTEEN FOOT POUNDS ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
23 is tightened to SEVEN FOOT POUNDS ONLY!
Buy a cheapo beam-type torque wrench at Harbor Freight and USE IT.
You've been given the correct answers. Parts 18 and 19 of that pic are what you need, depending on where the messed up stud is. Parts 21 and 22 (or 23) are the nut and washer.
If it's the VTEC engine, you'll use part 18 in all locations. If it's the non-VTEC, choose appropriately - part 18 goes in the four positions on the perimeter and part 19 goes in the center. The part numbers are listed in the link TheRealTegger posted.
The stud is one piece with an integral hex nut - perfect for a deep socket, either 12 or 13 mm. Pro tip: Everything on a Honda will be metric.
Either way, you're going to have to remove the valve cover, so replace it with a new gasket and don't forget the spark plug tube seals, and put RTV in the corners of the cam caps.
If it's the VTEC engine, you'll use part 18 in all locations. If it's the non-VTEC, choose appropriately - part 18 goes in the four positions on the perimeter and part 19 goes in the center. The part numbers are listed in the link TheRealTegger posted.
The stud is one piece with an integral hex nut - perfect for a deep socket, either 12 or 13 mm. Pro tip: Everything on a Honda will be metric.
Either way, you're going to have to remove the valve cover, so replace it with a new gasket and don't forget the spark plug tube seals, and put RTV in the corners of the cam caps.
I find it a bit odd that you are too busy to pull off a wheel to see how the parking brake works, but you seem to have plenty of time to mess around with the valve cover...
When the valve cover is off, you'll see the studs sticking up. Remove the broken ones with a deep socket, put the new ones in. Pay careful attention to torque values as TheRealTegger noted. Take note of the various hoses on the VC that will have to be disconnected as well. A rubber mallet can help if the gasket is being stubborn.
You really, really, really need to buy a repair manual, at least a Haynes/Chilton.
Um... Are you reading all of the responses completely?
Tutorial for VC gasket
When the valve cover is off, you'll see the studs sticking up. Remove the broken ones with a deep socket, put the new ones in. Pay careful attention to torque values as TheRealTegger noted. Take note of the various hoses on the VC that will have to be disconnected as well. A rubber mallet can help if the gasket is being stubborn.
You really, really, really need to buy a repair manual, at least a Haynes/Chilton.
Tutorial for VC gasket
When the valve cover is off, you'll see the studs sticking up. Remove the broken ones with a deep socket, put the new ones in. Pay careful attention to torque values as TheRealTegger noted. Take note of the various hoses on the VC that will have to be disconnected as well. A rubber mallet can help if the gasket is being stubborn.
You really, really, really need to buy a repair manual, at least a Haynes/Chilton.
90012-PM7-000
I found it on ebay. I contacted the seller asking if it will fit a 94 integra LS (all he had listed was CRVs for compatibility). He said no.
It is to my knowledge that CRVs use B series engines too. So maybe the studs are the same part and the guy is clueless? Can somebody please confirm this for me?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CRV-OTHERS-BOLT-B-FOR-HEAD-COVER-GENUINE-PART-90012PM7000-90012-PM7-00-/310963893606?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4866e47566
Thanks buddy.
USDM CRVs used P75 heads, so there should be no difference. Plus at least you know if the part number is the same it will work. Parts numbers are standardized across all of Honda/Acura.



