my b18c5 dyno chart
I finally got around to getting my stock itr swap tuned in my da today. My goal was 190 whp didnt quite make it to that. Here are the mods for the motor...
Stock internal 2000 b18c5 with 100,000 miles. Compression test was 250,245,255,250.
3" velocity stack intake
98+ jdm itr header
crappy 2.5" crush bent exhaust with resonator and oval Magnaflo muffler
no a.c., no power steering
Stock itr intake manifold
Ported s2k throttle body.

Before the tune I was running on a itr basemap that he used on another itr tune and we never did a dyno pull with it so I have no way of knowing my gains after the tune . Im thinking if I were to get some adjustable cam gears, a better header, and a good mandrel bent exhaust system that I could probably hit my goal of 190 hp. The da exhaust has alot of bends in it so its probably hurting me alot . What do you guys think of the graph?
Stock internal 2000 b18c5 with 100,000 miles. Compression test was 250,245,255,250.
3" velocity stack intake
98+ jdm itr header
crappy 2.5" crush bent exhaust with resonator and oval Magnaflo muffler
no a.c., no power steering
Stock itr intake manifold
Ported s2k throttle body.

Before the tune I was running on a itr basemap that he used on another itr tune and we never did a dyno pull with it so I have no way of knowing my gains after the tune . Im thinking if I were to get some adjustable cam gears, a better header, and a good mandrel bent exhaust system that I could probably hit my goal of 190 hp. The da exhaust has alot of bends in it so its probably hurting me alot . What do you guys think of the graph?
Yeah motor looks healthy, you can tell by the crossover it's wanting more cam. A better exhaust and some slightly bigger bumpsticks and you should see 200whp no problem.
looks good! how big is the s2k TB ported to?
i'd say a header + 3" exhaust might help a bunch just the way it is. you can also try tuning your intake pipe length and diameter
i'd say a header + 3" exhaust might help a bunch just the way it is. you can also try tuning your intake pipe length and diameter
It was given to me by a friend but I want to say 65 mm. It would probably take another $2000 to get another 20 hp. I dont know if its worth it at this point. It runs really smooth though. Hard to tell much difference on the butt dyno.
I did find out before we started that my timing was retarded at about 12°. Just because the distributor is in the center doesnt mean its in spec. Lol
I did find out before we started that my timing was retarded at about 12°. Just because the distributor is in the center doesnt mean its in spec. Lol
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in other words:
Be wary of danger on the 18th. Keep up your guard, and stay away from places and situations that could pose a threat. Later in the month, you will find something you thought you'd lost. Take care not to let it slip away again. Try not to feel weary as the month begins to draw to a close. Get plenty of rest to avoid illness. An unexpected turn of events may overwhelm you at first, but you'll quickly adjust to the changes. Stay positive and look for opportunities to shine. The month will end with some exciting news for someone close to you. Show your support for them. Not everyone else will.
Be wary of danger on the 18th. Keep up your guard, and stay away from places and situations that could pose a threat. Later in the month, you will find something you thought you'd lost. Take care not to let it slip away again. Try not to feel weary as the month begins to draw to a close. Get plenty of rest to avoid illness. An unexpected turn of events may overwhelm you at first, but you'll quickly adjust to the changes. Stay positive and look for opportunities to shine. The month will end with some exciting news for someone close to you. Show your support for them. Not everyone else will.
compression of the type-r is not the only thing worth looking at when choosing a cam. the headwork/flow , intake manifold and header design needs to be taken into consideration.
personally, i would change the stock valvetrain out even using a stage1 cam. its a wear item.
personally, i would change the stock valvetrain out even using a stage1 cam. its a wear item.
however, if you daily the car and put lots of miles on it i wouldnt get too stiff of a spring it adds wear to the timing belt and woodruff keys between the gears and the cams...
Yea I have no plans to tear the head off of the motor . Whatever cams can work with the stock valve train are the only ones I will consider . Ill be keeping the stock intake manifold too. Ill definitely need to upgrade the header and exhaust.
Basically the only upgrades I may be willing to do at some point is a better header, cams that work with the stock valve train, and a 3" exhaust. Anything more than that and I might as well start a new build
Basically the only upgrades I may be willing to do at some point is a better header, cams that work with the stock valve train, and a 3" exhaust. Anything more than that and I might as well start a new build
you could replace the springs and upgrade to bigger cams without removing the head
you can put a cylinder at tdc and slide a thin piece of plastic under the valve to avoid metal to metal contact when popping the keepers off
ive done that once or twice and it worked good. takes a little bit extra time but its possible to do
you can put a cylinder at tdc and slide a thin piece of plastic under the valve to avoid metal to metal contact when popping the keepers off
ive done that once or twice and it worked good. takes a little bit extra time but its possible to do
Buddy Club Spec III+ can be run on ITR springs, especially if you aren't reving them out to 9k. The Exhaust lift is pretty big though, it wouldn't hurt to run dual springs on the exhaust side too.
I believe Toda spec As can run on ITR springs too. Tuner 1s can run on ITRs all day as well.
Like others mentioned, with a better exhaust and header you will see some good results without opening the motor. I wouldn't mess with cam gears yet.
I believe Toda spec As can run on ITR springs too. Tuner 1s can run on ITRs all day as well.
Like others mentioned, with a better exhaust and header you will see some good results without opening the motor. I wouldn't mess with cam gears yet.
My tuner said there would be benefit to running cam gears on the stock itr cams. I really dont want to do anything with the valve train. Ill probably just stick with the itr cams too. Im not looking for crazy power gains either. Maybe 190-200 hp. Do yall think this is obtainable with a 3" exhaust and a good header?
The tuner also mentioned to me about relocating the iat sensor to the intake tube. He showed me the temps inside of the intake and how it pulls timing and fuel with such high temps and how relocating it actually gives more accurate readings of the air going into the motor. This is something else ill be doing soon too
It was reading 143° at idle
The tuner also mentioned to me about relocating the iat sensor to the intake tube. He showed me the temps inside of the intake and how it pulls timing and fuel with such high temps and how relocating it actually gives more accurate readings of the air going into the motor. This is something else ill be doing soon too
It was reading 143° at idle
It doesnt add power. It helps slightly with post start because of heatsoak. Once he relocated he better know how to adjust the iat tables properly because its gonna read different twmps
I understand that the heat from the engine transfers to the intake manifold where the iat sensor is located and ,in a way, can give a false reading of actual intake temps.
The ecu is calibrated to intake manigold temps which usually read higher that outside temp unless ure at wot for few seconds.
If you move sensor to intake pipe. It will read lower temps making the ecu think that inside the IM temps are lower than they are. Which will not be acurate
If you move sensor you have to calibrate it theoughout the temp range.
99 civic si has sensor on intake 95-97 has sensor on manifold
Same for single cams. Download stock crome bins for whatever engines u can find and compare the iat graps that will give u a better idea
If you move sensor to intake pipe. It will read lower temps making the ecu think that inside the IM temps are lower than they are. Which will not be acurate
If you move sensor you have to calibrate it theoughout the temp range.
99 civic si has sensor on intake 95-97 has sensor on manifold
Same for single cams. Download stock crome bins for whatever engines u can find and compare the iat graps that will give u a better idea






