Okay so let me preface this by saying I know the older honda manual transmission cars had some good fun with power loss and A/C

I experienced this a lot with my old civic.

Anyways I had finally replaced just about everything on my failed A/C system and got it recharged at a shop.

The AC blows cold and is working fine however when I clutch in to change gears the vehicle will bog under the added load of the compressor and sometimes reach 150-200rpm before climbing itself out of the hole and back up to the 6-700 range. This sucks because it bogs pretty heavily and shakes between low speed shifts where i can't catch and match the revs fast enough.

Is this something I can workout or is this something I just have to suck it up and deal with?

I thought about possible vacuum leaks but the car runs like a dream when the AC is off and the idle is steady and strong.

 

Just because it runs / idles well doesn't mean the IACV isn't close to being maxed out on duty cycle. Go through the steps to properly set the idle to verify everything is in proper ranges and go from there. This is kind one of those "try something first and then ask questions afterwards" type things. My CRV's A/C system is relatively refreshed and I do get some RPM drop but not like you are saying.

 

mine does this sometimes when it kicks on at idle, but never between shifts.

 

Yeah this sounds like an idle issue. I had to replace an iacv because it wouldn't keep the car running when the ac was on. Replaced with OEM denso, adjusted idle and was back in business.

The reason why it went bad was because it wasn't able to open or close as needed.

 

I guess I'll pull the IACV and clean it. I have a spare one in the garage I suppose I could throw on there and see as well.

I don't think there's a vacuum leak or the idle would be bouncy. You're probably right about checking the IACV first.


Do you think air in the coolant could also cause this?

 

The idle doesn't bounce from a vacuum leak haha... The IACV could cause the idle to fluctuate from being plugged or air bubbles in the line. Like I said, start with doing the easiest thing possible first. Properly set your idle.

 

nothing matters right now. the discharge line exploded Friday. It went out with a literal bang.

Kinda funny looking back, but I would not recommend the aftermarket UAC brand discharge hose. It wasn't a great fit and it ended up blowing the weld at the crimp fitting.

Funny looking back because that hose sucked ***** to install anyways. I'm going with the 4 season brand this time and will see how well that one works. I used that brand on the low pressure side it was a perfect match with no real stress in installing.



I gotta get this back working as 90+ degree days paired with 60%+ humidity can really bring out the nastyness.

 

Okay got a new hose in vacuumed for a hour, held for 30 minutes then added ~25oz of r-134.

Anyways I'm not quite sure of the performance but I would say this is good. I put my BBQ thermometer in the vent on the way to work this morning and it would get anywhere between 48 - 52f

This is with the outside temp this morning being 76f degrees and relative humidity at 74% hooray southern USA.

I would say that's pretty good performance considering the humidity. thoughts?



My biggest problem with these cars is it's like the condenser heat soaks unless you're moving and at stoplights the temperature of the AC drastically increases.

is there a better aftermarket fan setup that might alleviate some of this?