My son's car had a lit SRS light, so I checked it out and found out it was a faulty driver's seat belt buckle switch, but it reset fine, so the problem must be occasional. After clearing the light, the car started fine. I turned the car off and left the car with the door open for about 1/2 hour (with the dome light on). When I returned, the car wouldn't start (just a click when I turned the key). I tried a jump start from my truck and charged the battery, yet nothing changes. All the electrical seems to work fine. The lights are bright, yet nothing but a click when I turn the key. Could it be a bad solenoid? What else might be causing this?

This is a 4-cylinder 4-door model with automatic transmission.

 

I am not an expert by any stretch, but I just went through the same thing. A couple things to check:

Bad battery - If the battery is old and/or has been drained down several times, you killing it may have been its last straw and now it won't recharge even when you jump it. You can test the battery with a volt meter or take it to an auto parts store and they will test it.

Bad starter - the starter may be bad or there may be a loose connection at the starter. You can either test the starter or take it to the auto store and they will test.

Bad Alternator - The battery may be ok when it is jumped, but the alternator is not recharging the battery when it is running.

Wish I could be more help.

 

You didn't specify miles on your car but I can say that the contacts in the starter are worn out and you need to either get the starter rebuilt or replace with new one. One way to be sure is the take a hammer and use the handle end to tap the starter while someone else trys to turn it over. I'm 99% certain the starter is you issue.

 

Be sure to ground to the engine, not to the battery negative when attempting to jump with your truck. The power steering bracket is a good spot on those engines.

check the fuses. I sure there is one under the hood.. there may also be one under the dash.

If the battery is serviceable, check the water (acid) level inside.

sounds dumb, but I've seen it happen... make sure you're in Park or Neutral when trying to start. also push the brake pedal.

if none of that works, we can look at more in-depth troubleshooting.

 

The mileage is 125,600. We'll try hitting the starter, but there was no sign of problem prior to this event.

The car was jumped properly. Fuses are all OK. Water level is good in the battery. Park, neutral and brake were all attempted... with no change.

We'll get a new battery today. I guess the volts can be up with the charge but not the CCAs, allowing the lights to be strong, but still nothing but a click from a start attempt. Would it be worth it to check the ignition switch before the store opens for the battery? Is there a way to check the solenoid? The wires and connections are all tight and undamaged.

 

It sounds to me the car attempts to crank with clicking noises..right? Starters usually don't tell you they are starting to go out most of the time they just quit.

 

There is just one click when the ignition switch is turned to start, not a series of clicks.

 

Well you were saying that you wanted to see if there was anything you could do before spending money on a battery. So maybe tap that starter and see if does the trick?

 

As soon as my son wakes up, we'll tap on the starter... before heading to Costco for a battery.

 

the ignition switch is a known fail point in this model Accord. you're description of the car not starting even with the correct jump procedures suggests this is a possibility. sometimes there is a visible indication of failure at the back of the switch where the wires connect. If you remove the plastic steering column trim and the small black plastic cover from the wire side of the switch you should be able to see the solder joints. burn marks, melted solder, cracks in the solder joint(s); all signs of failure.

You can also check for battery voltage at the starter solenoid while the key is in the start position if you have a multimeter. if you don't have one, they're only $8 at Wal-Mart, or most anywhere else. much cheaper than a battery!

another option, to try at your own risk is to supply battery voltage directly to the starter solenoid with something like a jumper cable (with the key in the "ON" position). "remote starter switches" are also available and a little safer. this bypasses the ignition switch and if it works you know what you need to replace...

 

I replaced the battery, and still no go. I pulled the starter and connected it to 12 vt, and it turned fine, but when I connected it to the car's solenoid, it didn't do a thing, other than a click from below. I'm sensing the problem may be the solenoid. What might be your expert opinion on this?

 

If it starts when applying direct power to the starter but not when you turn the ignition to the start position, it's likely the ignition switch is bad. Very easy to replace. Just make sure to remove the negative battery terminal. The yellow/black wire going to the ignition switch is always hot.

Do make sure to check all the fuses, the ones in the kickboard on the drivers side and the engine bay. One in the kickboard could be blown. Do a continuity test don't just eyeball them.

 

I'll go through each fuse with a multimeter. I find it strange there could be a click from the starter solenoid if power wasn't getting there through the ignition switch. That is the reason I assumed the solenoid might be the problem, though I guess it has to be the ignition switch, starter relay or solenoid. I'll look at all 3. Any other suggestions or easy tests would be appreciated.

 

I checked all the fuses with an ohm meter, and all tested out fine. I followed the instructions in the FSM on Starter Circuit Troubleshooting and find myself confused. On the solenoid, there is continuity between the S and M terminals and between the S and ground. According to the FSM, that means the solenoid is fine. I removed the starter motor from the car and jumpered the case to the car's main ground and the connecting wire to M (where it was originally connected with a nut). I then jumpered S (after removing the black/white wire from it) to the positive post of the battery. I heard a click from the solenoid, just like I did with normal starting at the ignition switch, but the starter motor didn't turn. When I connect the starter motor to the battery, it spins normally. This sounds like a solenoid problem to me, but what are your thoughts?

OK, here is more information: Voltage coming from the ignition switch to the solenoid is 12 vt, but coming out of the solenoid, it is only 10 vt. Let me know if that is an issue.

 

I pulled the starter/solenoid assembly and will get a replacement. It would have been a lot easier if the FSM said 14mm bolts rather than 10X1.25mm. I guess that means the width of the bolt is 10mm with 1.25mm threads, though it is the 14mm head that is exposed, not the 10X1.25mm. I spent a lot of time taking out the screws rather than the bolts. After struggling and removing 2 screws, I realized there were 3 screws, so I gave up and took out the bolts. Thank you for your feedback. I hope this fixes the problem. I'll install it on Sunday and report back.

 

Getting the new starter assembly in was a challenge. Maybe it would be easier with smaller hands, as there is little room. For some reason, I had a heck of a time connecting the wire from the ignition switch, and you would think that would be the easiest part, but it just wouldn't connect. I finally got it together, and the car works fine (though the SRS light came back on, and my son will still have to go to the dealer to get his seat belt switch replaced, though it is under lifetime warranty). Thanks for your suggestions.