My goal of this build is no vtec bolt ons some headwork like valve train and other requirments

98 honda civic coupe bought as shell had motor and built it from ground up

painted my bay

wheels

valve cover to match

color scheme

started from the bottom





better ride now i installed these got trail arm bushings to




b18b1 block where i got block from full ls took it all apart and block bare to machine shop

took head off and look like it suffered bad head gasket

block bare ready to go to machine shop

at machine shop 2 days later ready to get honed and cleaned

got it back from machine shop and ready to get put together

 

Another thread?

 

block goen back together finally had to take old motor apart because threads from block came out on head stud when i went to torque it down

acl rod bearings arp rod bolts arp head studs gsr oil pump everything torqued to spec

head back on

timing done coming along

was ready to drop it in the car almost forgot to put clutch on was thinkin hold up wait somethin dont look right


clutch on and gettin ready to drop in

in car finally and on mounts hookin things up slowly


more progress made that day


[Replace with picture where you are not flipping the finger]

finally done hooking everything up axles exhuast headers lines connectors shift linkage was tryin to get it to start

 

closed old one and said to start over and do it right long as i follow correct prodcures so tell me what im doen wrong if so

 

So thread #3. Proceed.

 

coolant new plugs oil filter raditor fluid needed more tranny fluid and gas

valve adjustment and almost ready to start

 

maybe ill get this one right though...





couldnt get it started figure out what it was though timing was off 2 teeth had to get a accurate fuel pressure guage had injector 3 and 4 mixed up check engine light was on at 1st did the paper clip test code number 7 throttle postion sensor had a warrenty on it so i got a new one and replaced it check engine light is off now

 

have a few videos of it running just not uploaded to photobucket yet,idle is up and down somewhat had to keep adjusting the distbutor cause when i would go to give it gas it was falling on its face it drives fine once its goin but it dont like to idle somewhat i was thinking that maybe because of the cams and not tuned yet..Messaged a tuner this morning in waterbur ct daves tuning he said 380

 

U trying to do it with a timing light lol? I hate those things lol, I hand/ear tune distributors if the stock location doesn't work. Getting out at traffic lights and adjusting em and shiz.

this thread looks nice, Mo. I hope you dont get trolled and yanked around again. Crazy what they're putting u thru just to list what you're doing.

what did you need to do to start it?

 

its ok i make mistakes like we all do just trying to do it right ya know.

i needed to redo the timing cause it was two teeth off and adjust the fuel pressure it was way out of spec

 

just need compensator arms and front ball joints since the boots on mine are ripped and junk

 

Correct.

 

head internals minus block guard

was collecting parts for a long time




didnt use some parts like front camber kit steering wheel and black lower control arms

rear setup

rear setup on

energy suspension bushing kit

trail arm bushing

 

Dude, seriously, trusting your engine internals to a cheap, knockoff company like Blox is just begging for problems. Stick with OEM, or buy something good. From what you're showing us, you don't even need to rev outside of the stock range anyway, so that hardware is useless to you.

 

I have not had one problem with blox products so far so iw ill contunie to use them i didnt have the money for skunk2 when its made from the same and i saw the blox intake manifold outperfome the skunk 2 and eldrobrock manifold before..motors in my car and running good ad that right now just needs a tune so unless you can show me evidence of their failure parts think ill keep using them

 

skunk2 isn't much better at all man...i'm pretty sure blox is from one of the skunk2 guys that quite except even worse quality. Tune you mean basemap amirite? nonvtec all motor is just such a waste not that much has been spent already with all that knock off stuff(sorry but it's the truth).



it's common knowledge that the cheap knock off stuff is crap fitment is the #1 issue followed by quality doesn't take a genius to spot the difference.

 

People are going to assume you just have a pile of parts laying around waiting to be installed since that's pretty much the only thing you've shown us. If the motor is up and running then maybe move onto that.

Last I remember you guys couldn't figure out why it would not start so it looks like you neglected to put in the part how you solved that problem into your "build" thread.

 

You painted and shaved the engine bay....yet you left the block and transmission dirty and engine harness wires everywhere?

 

He said it was fuel pressure and timing problem.

and tou folks love to bitch and especially bitch if someone doesn't read for themselves. Laughable.

hey magicmo, did you consider a b16 head for the flow characteristics and vtec or did you really just want a straight up non-vtec engine?

 

Actually you're right. Didn't see that update amidst the barrage of parts pictures. And I could've sworn in the last thread we all said to check all of those things and the OP never answered the questions put to him.
So what does "fuel pressure way out of spec" mean?

And I agree about the dirty block in a custom painted engine bay.

 

guys take it easy on him

lots of ppl buy car parts they dont really need

 

Pardons. Let's not rehash.

 

Even a couple coats of cast spray can come on $14.

 

Take it like a man, and remember what I said in our pm's. Weed out the good info, and they are right though. PAINT THE BLOCK. LOL. Anyways continue.

Word of advice I hope you lube up the bearings and such because thats what it looked like it was missing the second time around.

 

Did you not see his thread title?