Hey guys,

iam building here in Germany a H2B h22a2 (10,0:1 CR, 185 HP UKDM engine)


I pulled the engine out so far and know iam thinking about swapping the internals. My goal is around 230 + horsepower! Should be my daily driver and gas prices are really high in germany hehe

What guys are you think to reach this power, is recommend?

Iam thinking about:

Cams & valvetrain (but dont know, which brand and stage)
KS Balance shaft eliminator kit
Logic header

Eventually:
Mahle pistons for 11,5:1 CR
ITB's or manifold with big TB?



Other plans:

H2b with s80, 4,7 trans
Exedy stage 1 with fidanza 7,5 lbs flywheel

tuned with p28 and crome



What guys are you thinking?
Which cams would you prefer?


I know, there are so many threads about this stuff, but i cant find something good about the h22a2 engine!

thanks!

 

this h2b we did with mahle 11.5 pistons skunk2 stage 2 cams and oem intake manifold with runners cut down to to approx. 7.5" logic header and 3" stainless cat back. 219whp and 151tq on Mustang dyno. Peak power at 8200rpm.

 

so 230 hp would be realistic with the ks BSEK, bigger tb and sk2 intake manifold?
good to know!


are there any simple mods, i can do to increase HP at my h22?

 

Read again. He is using 11.5:1 compression pistons, and pretty large cams.

 

I'm not saying this is the only way, but it is "A" way to reach your goal.
Get a CNC'ed 4 Piston head (Or an RLZ, but I have heard bad things about their customer service… no personal experience with them though) with upgraded springs and retainers. That will help your cams breathe.
For cams, possibly the best "out of the box" cam is the Skunk2 Pro1. There are other options, but that cam is a proven power maker with the H22 even with stock compression and is a little more forgiving than the Skunk Pro2 or bigger.
Intake, don't worry about the ITBs, just port the OEM one like Randy Owens (NAH2B) did, which requires removing all of the webbing and welding the underside so that you can create a large flush plenum.

Furthermore, gut the IAB plate and rework the upper plenum to match the "spacer" (formerly an IAB plate) and port it to match your upper plenum to your throttle body.
Use a Hondata thermal intake gasket to help keep your intake cool and thus keeping engine performance more consistent (a small insignificant thing, but it does make a difference).
Use a throttle body no smaller than 70mm, but I would recommend something around 72-76mm. (For reference, I did make almost 220WHP with a 68mm TB and a EuroR intake, but this was with an H23A Bluetop and not an H22)
Use a velocity stack and ecutout to further help your engine breathe. Intake piping should be 3 inches diameter, but you may make a trumpet where it tapers out to a 4in pipe and attach the velocity stack. I just run a straight 3 inch with a 3 inch velocity stack.
After that, the Logic Header and a good tune should get you at or above 230 with a stock bottom end.
Yes. Just installing it as an H2b with the intake as modified above with the velocity stack, a good header, and a good tune should give you around 25-30 WHP over a plain stock H set-up… maybe more (fingers crossed).

Oh, yea and like 92frostwhtdb2 says below me, take out the balance shafts.

 

Stock bottom,
Pro 1 cams, supporting valvetrain
Decent header
modifiied intake or euro r, skunk2 etc..
68mm or bigger tb
good tune thats it!!

maybe take out a layer out of that headgasket bump up the compression just a tad.

oh and take out the balance shafts.

 

the intake manifold on the car in the dyno graph is pretty much the same as the pic posted above. We cut straight down just like that and milled out the plenum spacer. We had a 68mm t/b and stock head other than cams and valvetrain. Oh the cams are not pro's either, they are tuner 2's. That car would rev to 8600 rpm no problem, it flattened off but didn't dive after 8200. Also it is on a Mustang, since most people are used to Dynojet #'s on here. A stock k20r with k-tuned header, intake and Apexi exhaust dynoed 190whp on this same dyno for reference.

 

yeah, i mean WITH deleting the ks BSEK, bigger tb and sk2 intake manifold

very nice, never heared about it before!

What do you think, how much HP would be extra with the Mahle pistons and sk2 Pro stage 2 cams in comparison with only sk2 pro stage 1 cams?


Do you have a bigger picture? cant imagine that.

So, my thoughts are now:

-3 inch velocity stack + 3 inch piping
-70mm+ TB
-Hondata heatshild
-skunk2 pro stage 1 or 2 with supporting valvetrain
-(eventually mahle pistons)
-logic header
-balance shaft eliminator set

tuned with crome!

Sounds like a idea!

 

anyone?

 

You will make more with the Pro1's on that set-up. If for some strange reason you were able to make more peak WHP with the Pro2's then that would be at the cost of a lot of lost power throughout the power band and the car would be slower with the Pro2's. This is because you don't have enough compression to get the most out of the Pro2's yet. Just check your clearances with the Pro1's, degree them, and then see if you can play with the settings a little on the dyno to get the most out of them. They really are an excellent cam and probably the best "out of the box" cam made for the H22.


Not really. There is a pic on my Build thread that might help you, but it basically shows the same thing. Just do some digging around or Google "NAH2B intake" or "Randy Owens intake" to see if you can find some better pics of his manifold. To be fair, the picture above is pretty self explanatory it you just take a couple of minutes to look at your intake.


I know some people think that you will make it to 230+ on that set-up (with a ported P13 intake or EurorR) but really I only see it as an H2B set-up optimistically only making about 220-225 with pump gas and a good tune. Big whoop… 5-10WHP is not worth arguing over and all Dyno's read differently, but I thought it might be worth mentioning since your goal is above 230 WHP and I think you are cutting it close at best. I could be wrong, and would love it if your build made much more than I predict. Regarding the Mahle pistons, I would advise you do a little research on them before you install them as there have been some longevity complaints. I don't know how legitimate they are, but you should look that up. Another option is to run the Type S piston… just a suggestion.

 

I'm sorry but I respectfully disagree.

I have seen plenty of stock compression H22s run Pro2s, I have a friend with a totally stock block H22 making over 230 wheel on Pro2s and pulling 10.5 in a gutted CRX. The Pro1 cam is not very big on the VTEC lobe at all, it's main advantage is that it has massive primaries and it feels great on the butt dyno. You would be hard pressed to find an H22 where the Pro1 made MORE power than the Pro2, in fact I doubt it's possible.

While you are correct in that the OP doesn't have enough compression to really take advantage of the Pro 2s, I disagree that the Pro1s will 'make more power' and I don't think he will lose much, if anything on the Pro2s. With some proper headwork, a good intake an exhaust, and a good tuner, I'm pretty sure he can hit 230whp with stock pistons.

 

Well, I respectfully disagree with you back. haha. The primaries are the same on both the Pros and Pro2's just the Vtec lobes are different. Maybe the Pro2 's will make more peak whp, maybe, but the power band would be better with the Pro1's on a stock bottom H22 and pump gas. It really not worth arguing over anymore to me so we can just agree to disagree. I don't know everything (that is for sure, just ask my wife!) so I will concede that I might be wrong… it certainly would not be the first time. In the end the most important thing is that the OP does some independent research to decide what parts meet his goals and not rely on what anybody just tells him.

Regarding a ported head scenario, I really don't know how the Pro2's will do compared to the Pro1's on a stock bottom end H22 with a really nice ported head. I do know someone making 254 WHP on Pro1s with a stock bottom end H23A Bluetop and an RLZ head. Not exactly on point seeing as how its a different engine, but somewhat relevant. In any event I did recommend on my initial post a ported head to help him reach his goals.

A side note: I do know that a lot of people have trouble with the Pro2's due to their failure to properly degree the cams which leads to less than the desired performance. Of course, this is an installer error issue, and not due to the camshafts themselves. At the end of the day my vote goes to the Pro1's with a stock bottom end but I respect your opinion.

 

I managed 234 and 166tq on my h2b setup.
jdm h22, ericks racing tbody, skunk2 intake manifold, pro1 cams and valvetrain, plm header, straight pipe 3inch piping with 3 inch muffler. 440cc injectors,ported head, and hondata s300. totally stock bottem end.

 

sweet.

 

Take a look at the FAQ section and Hybrid section to give you some advice. after you have narrowed your possible ideas please respond back to a moderator and let them know.