My car is idling at 100rpms and is surging violently in between 1-2k rpms. After 2k it's smooth what could the problem be? I used the f22b1 fuel rail with fresh seals and stock injectors... Motor is f22b1 obd2

 

Did you block off the ports on the F23 intake for the fuel injection air control system? If you didn't cover those ports on the F23 intake they will be a source for a vacuum leak.



The two ports indicated in the image above with red arrows need to be sealed. If not they will cause an erratic idle. The image above is what happens when you try to use a 96-97 F22B1 intake gasket with an F23 intake. These ports are open to atmosphere = vacuum leak.

 

What purpose do they serve on an F23 head? And what would happen if you blocked them off when using the manifold on an F23? Asking because I have an F23 manifold waiting for me to get the time and motivation to install.

 

I did plug them at one point but I used silicone to do it and I pulled the silicone a week later because there was no change

 

Then you must have another vacuum leak else where, Throttle body gasket, IAC o-ring, fuel injector o-rings, one of the intake manifold gaskets or a cracked vacuum hose.

 

idle screw could of been set high. was the manifold swapped over by its self or with tb as well?

 

Just the manifold was swapped and now I'm getting a high input reading on my map sensor and my air temp is reading low circuit input....also it said iac valve failure...

 

What IAC are you using? The three wire F23 one doesn't work with the 2 wire F22B1 ECU.

Did you plug all of the sensors back in after you did the swap? Make sure that the wires are clean and seated properly. Also check that they are in working order!

 

I am using the f22 iac and the only connections I'm not sure of are the ones on the air temp sensor because I had to cut and extend the wires

 

Are you using any sort of adapter plate between the F22 IAC and F23 intake manifold? If not that could very well be an area for a vacuum leak.

There is a procedure for testing the resistance and power/ground on the IAT sensor. Do you have a CD5/7/9 Accord shop manual?

PM Sent

 

i tried unplugging the tps and it removed the problem so i think it could be tps related?
fyi i deleted the iacv all together...

 

Could be a TPS related issue or it could be that the ECU is trying to adjust idle air via the IAC valve based on TPS readings. With the IAC deleted it will not be correct, then when you unplug the TPS the ECU reverts to a set of backup ignition and fuel tables.

You can test the TPS easy enough.... It's voltage based and you should see approx. 0.5v @ closed throttle and 4.5v at WOT. You can test this without the engine running. Also the voltage should rise smoothly from 0.5v - 4.5v when the throttle is opened. if there are any flat spots or hesitation the TPS is most likely bad.

 

TPS/MAP sensor plugs may have been switched. I plugged the holes on mine with regular silicone almost 10K miles ago, no issues from that. The only issue I've run into, using a Rosko IACV spacer, is that the spacer isn't thick enough to allow the IACV sufficiently clear the MAP sensor, and leaves a slight gap allowing a minor vacuum leak. Only has an annoying surge when I first start the car up when the engine's cold.

 

jbweld that minor leak. or two part epoxy