So I've had my 99 B20B running in my Integra for about a month now and while I don't have any mechanical problems it seems that my engine isn't digging the Integra manifolds or exhaust. My problem is that it seems to be choking under more than half throttle, almost like it's getting too much air. I'm running basically factory 96 integra intake and exhaust, only modification being an invidia test pipe. It seemed to have the issue before removing the catalyst. Can it be that the exhaust isn't flowing enough for the higher output? I plan on changing everything out when I can but would rather get rid of the feeling that the engine is breathing through a straw. Thanks for input and comments.

 

What makes you think your car isn't 'digging' those particular parts? Did it tell you?


I'm really hoping you mean too little air. Can you elaborate on 'choking'?


So you removed your catalyst on an OBD2 car... is your check engine light on?

What higher output? A B20B makes the same horsepower as a B18B. I've seen guys make 200whp on stock intakes and exhaust, trust me, you aren't maxing out anything with your stock B20.




Can you think about your problem some more, and then decide how to best formulate your question, giving as much detail and information as possible? That would be terrific, thanks.

 

I apologize for not having a dyno sheet... I'm running an obd1 P75 so the secondary O2 is irrelevant. 99% of info I've seen proves that a stock B20 makes as much whp as a B18B1 does at the crank. I'm simply trying to see what I should change first to gain better response at wot. I know the P75 wasn't tuned for the B20 so that could be the issue?...

 

Tune the ECU. You will see HUGE improvements not only in power, but also in engine responsiveness and drivability.

 

I bet its running very lean thats what its doing. Ive had a wideband on 2 different b20s with p75 ecu they were both lean under load especially around 4500-5000 rpm and i mean like 14:1

 

That's almost exactly where I notice it, it runs slightly better than on the OBD2 P75 I had before. I was planning on running Hondata after a few bolt-ons but looks like I should tune it sooner rather than later. Thanks for chiming in.

 

Youve got a 1.8L ECU running a 2.0 engine. Its not gonna have enouh fuel especially on open loop. Think of it this way: youve got a big new engine getting the exact same fuel as if it were a 1.8. The ECU has no way of knowing it is running a B20.

 

I've known about that since day 1, just thought I would ask people that were a little more accustomed to engines since I usually focus on chassis tuning. The only reason I thought it could be anything different was the fact that it was only occurring around 4k rpm and not above or below. I assumed that the factory settings were quite rich and safe to run for a short time.

 

A P75 ECU will run a B20, and it shouldnt cause any harm, but it is not optimal by any means.

 

I dyno'ed at 143hp with the B18B intake manifold, 68mm throttle body; stock crappy CRV manifold and a 2" exhaust; since adding crower 403's and a header with 2.5" collector and same 2" exhaust I am at 178hp.

That manifold is fine. You have other issues (tuning) that are causing problems.

 

the b20 makes its max torque around there which is hundreds of rpm lower than the b18. its the torque that requires the fuel so there ya go.

not that it matters at this stage, but ive also found over the years that the b20 can run at a pretty good egt temp. while the timing map on the p75 is pretty darn good, taking out a few degrees at moderate load like around 12-8" made a bit of a difference

additionally, the b20b has the dog **** intake cam and is a major contributor to the motor falling on its face around 5500 rpm. simply upgrading to a b18b or b20z intake cam wont make it much faster but it keeps it from falling flat

solorex those are nice gains with the 403's. i will own a set one day lol.

 

I have great plans for the B20B, sticking with non vtec and when I get to dumping all my cash into the engine after chassis and suspension I'm shooting for 185whp without cracking open the bottom end. Going straight from the B18B1 to this engine is night and day, brother just swapped a B18C1 for a 00 B20B and he loves it. Chasing cones is much more fun now, an lsd would help as I get uplift pretty bad.

 

I would look into trans work before motor work (but AFTER getting it tuned!). A B16 trans with an aftermarket LSD and an LS 5th would go GREAT with a B20 for autocross.

The shorter gearing will give you a greater increase in acceleration than a cam swap will...

I would do motor upgrades LAST, if the car is for racing. A stock (TUNED) B20 has more than enough power and is very easy to drive quickly. With the amount of torque is has down low you dont have to worry about keeping the rpms up high to go fast.

 

Trust me, I hate the stock trans. It's issue free but eventually I'll pick up a 96 spec itr trans and swap in a 4.7 fd. Just started at Honda's assembly plant so more parts will come with time. Ecu tuning will be first to get rid of the lean bog. S100 would be all I need. Trying to stay as low on weight as possible so it's bare bones. Desired weight is around 1900 with me in the car. Will also track it when my funds catch up and new brakes are on the car.

 

I recommend holding out for a Neptune RTP

 

I dont wanna be a smart *** but simple bone stock b20vtec with tune would do 185whp for sure. It will be probably cheaper doing the Frankenstein than building a non-vtec head with cams.

 

Why would you recommend Neptune?

A bunch of people have gotten those kind of numbers with somewhat basic mods, spending all that money on vtec stuff and not reaching it's full potential due to the rods/rod bolts puts me off from it. A lot can change between now and when I do engine work so we will see.

 

I believe s100 is just the chip wit no user adjustability. Neptune rtp is more similar to s300 for much less and the money goes to a better place not some giant company. My friends and I have been using neptune for years with great results.

As for the b20vtec most of that power is made up at or over the reliable limit of the rod bolts. The nonvtec form will make a great power band in the 4500-6500 Range with good tq making it kinda more responsive

 

After looking into all aspects of Neptune I think that's a great route to go, the RD1 digital dash is also something I would love to play with!