I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX. It's has been swapped from the f22b2 non-vtec and auto to an f22b1 vtec manual.

I know I already have a ton of problems because the guy that swapped it has an auto ECU with half/half auto/manual harnesses... with having that said, I know I have a lot of issues, I've ordered a new ECU and Harness to finish the swap out properly and make it purty..

Issue I'm having is that when in high RPM's, I have a CEL come on that comes back as a Code12. (exhaust recirculation (me thinks?)) Anyway, after driving it around a bit, the CEL goes off. My car has no EGR, and has "EGR Delete?" on it, and was told MAYBE that could be it?? (yes/no?)

Second issue (and I notice this more in 2nd gear than any others) is that when in the higher RPM, the car seems to jerk and tug a little bit. Also, have been told that possible EGR issues?

Does anyone else have this issue and will an EGR fix these 2 issues? Do I have to have an EGR, is there anything else I can look for to fix this WITHOUT getting an EGR?

PREASE HEP MEH

 

First issue: Code 12, I would clean the EGR passage. Located in the FAQ's:

http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf

So the car does not have the EGR valve? You can easily get a EGR valve here in LaVerge pull-n-save for little $$. All you need is a 12mm socket to remove 2 bolts. If it does have one, clean it also. Takes about a good 30 minutes to do both.


Second issue: Does this only happen when you are not idling and driving?

 

lol without an egr valve of course it's going to throw a code ... it won't throw a code for egr ports being plugged because obd1 cars don't have that capacity..code 12 is for insufficient lift...meaning it's not seeing any movement on the egr valve when it tests the lift because you don't have one installed.

You will either need to get a chipped ecu and have it tuned for your car in order to continue driving with an egr delete or you will need to grab another egr valve and hook it back up the way it's supposed to be or it's going to continue throwing that code.

Also, the jerking should be directly related to the egr valve ... it will probably jerk when the check engine light is not on because it's altering the timing to coincide with what it thinks is a functioning egr system. It won't jerk when the light is on. The code will be stored but should go off temporarily when you turn the car off and restart it but it will still be stored until you disconnect the battery or remove the radio/backup fuse to clear the code. Each time you start the car it will, at some point, test the egr system and when it, again, sees not lift, it will throw the code.

 

It seems to sputter a little at idle, but was told that was FITV and IACV.

And I only notice the jerking when the CEL light is OFF and in about 3200+ rpms.

 

Install a EGR valve as holmesnmanny mentioned. Express Pull n Save has them.

 

when the light comes on it turns off egr

 

This.

When the ECU light is off it will try to function the system normally. Timing and fuel trim will be at the correct preset tables for a given load. While the EGR valve is disabled the ECU will not 'know' this initially and when EGR should be activated the timing and fuel trims will be set for the diluted mixture. Thus the car will ping and/or buck/surge while at part throttle cruise.

When the ECU acknowledges an EGR issue(via a CEL), it will adjust timing and fuel to function correctly without causing damage to the engine or emissions systems. But this is just temporary. OBDI systems are not as 'smart' as latter OBDII systems, this is why sometimes a fault will not show up in the OBD code or not as quickly as you would expect.

Two choices.
Replace the EGR valve and restore functionality to the system.
Have the ECU tuned to delete EGR function.

First is simple and relatively cheap.
Second may cause other drive-ability issues if not properly tuned by a knowledgeable technician, and will be costly.