My car starts great COLD (1-2 cranks) It drives and pulls strong.

BUT,When I drive (bring car to temp) and letting it SIT for 3+ minutes (less then a few minutes it will start perfect).

After SITTING warm, when I try to start it acts very strange. It will start, but the RPM's will be at like 200 for a few seconds, it will be rough and then go to normal idle. I will then get ready to pull off and it will misfire as I move forward...(random misfire code, with 1,2,3 or 4)


I think it could be the EVAP system...does anyone know how to test this?

PLEASE HELP!!!!!

I looked at EVERYTHING and don't know what it could be.

 

I have been experiencing an issue very similar to this, minus the misfire CEL codes.

Please list details about the car, engine, and any relevant modifications.

 

yeah, Wdpfreak hope we can figure this out

cars a 2000 civic EX (D16Y8), Manual

Its basically stock, its got 250k (but 150k on motor)

replaced cap,rotor,wires,plugs, injectors, and other stuff i can't remember...

maybe if we put our heads together we can fix this... anything you realized about the problem that may help in solving it?

 

The only conclusion I came to was that the number of parts I threw at the car attempting to fix it, including some things you mentioned as well (i did cap, rotor, coil, wires, plugs, etc) did not truly fix it. I wound up getting rid of a coinciding ignition problem when under heavier throttle, but every now and then I still get a rough start that last for a few seconds or until I blip the throttle. It's strange...

But I have the same symptoms. If I restart the car immediately it's fine. But if I wait 20 minutes or so, I get a rough startup that feels like it's only firing on two cylinders for a few seconds.

 

YEAH thats exactly the same thing feels like its down a cylinder and RPS's are super low (oil light flickers too)!!

I have been doing a good bit of research and am pretty sure its an EVAP problem (pressure building and making first few seconds of warm start rough)

I also have a P0420 (cat code)- could a bad cat cause this? do you have a cat code?

 

Not an evap issue for me as I have completely deleted my evap system from my car.

I also do not have any CEL codes for the cat. OBD1 computers only look for the "upstream" O2 sensor and I can remove the cat and run a test pipe, which I have done.

 

It could be the beginning signs of a blown head gasket. I'd pull all 4 plugs out and look to see if there is any signs of coolant atop the pistons. That's what failed on my car not long ago. I'd get rough starts at times, only lasting a few seconds and then all would smooth out. Coolant was entering the cylinders and wetting the spark plugs. The car still ran well after getting passed the rough start. I replaced the head gasket and all's been well ever since.

 

crvtectim,

That an interesting thought, is there any way to test for a bad head gasket?
(compression good, power good, no overheating, no oil/water mix)?
What tipped you off that it needed to be replaced and that it was not another problem?!

 

How long ago? What brand wires and plugs? Many more details are needed.

Have you cleaned the IACV?

Not sure how adding this^ helps your cause in any way. Dig into you memory and provide relevant useful information.

 

Lol.

Yes, I have cleaned my iacv, I even replaced it with a spare, but no change.(maybe they both are bad?)

I should note removing my iacv (when car is running) makes NO change. But when I plug it back in the idle change a little...I also got a p0505 (iacv code) today for the first time... But could this cause all these problems?

 

If this^ were true, there'd be no need for this thread.

^Are you finding your car problems funny?

P0505 - clean the IACV again and then adjust the idle speed as per the service manual instructions.

Answer the ignition parts question.

 

I have repaved all ignition parts (cap, rotor, plugs wires,- *ALL OEM* injectors) about 5 months ago.

* note about injectors, I bought used ones and matched the ones with least resistance... maybe I have a leaky injector-cause this would make sense...Can I test for this (I have 12 injectors now)

I am have re-cleaned the IACV (though it was pretty clean) and the idle is sitting where it should (750).

What could I test?!

Like I said it runs absolutely great! Pulls strong and starts AWESOME when cold, its just when it is warm and I start it, It shutters the RPMS will be low (2-300)...and then it will smooth out to 750. And *Sometimes* it will misfire when I start to move off (p0300 01,02,03...Never 04)...

I also get p0000 when I get the misfire codes, could the computer be trying to tell me something?

 

Your response says all OEM injectors.

Likewise, what brand cap and rotor?

 

Sorry if that was confusing, Everything was replaced with OEM parts,

The injectors are OEM used, I am thinking a leaky injector would make sense... but don't know how to test this...

Or any other things to test Ron?

 

Next time the problem arises, unplug the primary O2 sensor to see whether the problem is eliminated.

 

Unplugged primary o2...NO chance.

It seems to be getting worse. sometimes the car will start a at like 50-100 rpms shake bad and sputter for like 10 seconds, then will idle normal, and after this weird start intuition it runs GREAT!

PLEASE SUGGEST WHAT TO TEST NEXT!!!

 

Have you replaced the fuel filter, measured the fuel pressure, and tested the FPR?

 

No, FPR never tested. But it's got pressure at rail...and it drives great, and cold starts strong. So I don't think it's fpr.

Also if it means anything I forgot I have a p0420 (cat code)...but I doubt that will help any..

Please let me know, I am delivering pizza and I feel bad driving her if she isn't 100%!!

 

I'm thinking a bed sensor somewhere that possibly reasons temps, so when it gets warm, something is telling the computer something funky.

 

Honda,

That's what I initially thought. I replaced the temp sensor (with oem)

I think it may be a HG leak. :O

Conpression was down 10-15 psi on cylinder 2 (where it misses)

And I do go through coolant ( but I didn't think it was burning....
(Warm start issue, coolant are ONLY issue)

Any good tests for HG ?

Any luck with "head sealers"

Thanks!!

 

Stay away from any type of "fix in a bottle". You'll end up with more problems you don't have now.

A leak down test can help identify a bad head gasket but you need the tester and an air compressor to use it.

Most auto parts stores sell "block testers" that are used to detect exhaust gases in the cooling system. These are an inexpensive option.

The only fix for a blown head gasket is to replace the head gasket.



Along with the ignition components you replaced did you check and confirm correct ignition timing?


Some of the other suggested checks and test like fuel pressure and the FPR you should do. Not doing them because "you don't think that's it" is going to get you nowhere.

 

I need more suggestions...

It starts good cold, and runs good...so its not FPR right?

I don't know where to buy a gauge, and am 90% sure thats not the problem...

please more ideas!!!