HRubss LsVtec problems
Well, if you guys have seen the "How to build a reliable LSvtec" thread already then you know i copied and pasted lol. Didn't want to feel like i was thread jacking so i started my own thread.
Heres my setup:
-B16a head
-B18b1 block
-Blox intake manifold/throttle body
-Blox cam seal
-ARP main studs
-ARP connecting rod bolts (connecting rods resized but not shotpeened)
-Crankshaft was not balanced (Didn't remove the entire engine out of the car)
-Rockauto Piston rings
-Integra (stock) fuel injectors and fuel rail
-B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
-GSR Spark Plugs
-GSR water pump/timing belt
-P28 equivalent ECU
-Yonaka OBD2 to OBD1 jumper harness
-RYwire vtec subharness
-Engine only has 30k so didnt bother replacing oil pump
-Gaskets were all changed
-B16a stock valve train (cam gears, cams, springs, etc.)
-LS distributor
-Golden Eagle LS vtec kit
-ACL bearings
-New Honda Majestic Cam caps/rails bolts
-Every internal engine part was torqued to specs except the head. Cam rail bolts were not torqued because while we were torquing it to specs (1-10 20ft-lbs,11-14 7ft-lbs) first 2 bolts broke off ( we got them out and used the bolts that the head came with)
When wiring up the subharness, I Searched for the vtec pinouts for the p28 ECU and if any pin from the LS harness would go in the vtec pin point for the p28 ECU, I de-pinned it and re-pinned it with the subharness pins. Is that correct?
As for the engine, when I started it up for the first time, It started at 3k rpms and shook like crazy. Found out that the high idle was caused by a leak in the Evap system and fixed it. Engine still shook a lot but we retarded the timing of the distributor by moving it back and forth while it was mounted on to the cam cap and so it lessened the shaking but still felt it. A couple of hours later, we tried to start the car but it didn't want to and it kept cranking. Pulled out spark plugs and saw that they were flooded with fuel, my auto tech teacher assumed that the cause was the fuel pressure regulator and it probably was not set right. Went back to stock B16A FPR and the car started up but car was still running rich, engine kept shaking and exhaust was cloudy. My auto tech teacher said that it was not burning fuel right as if it were delivering fuel late. Here is a video I took https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzsE...ature=youtu.be
Sorry for bad quality but the engine was shaking. Anyone know the reason for all of this or something I can do to fix it? I am running out of options
Heres my setup:
-B16a head
-B18b1 block
-Blox intake manifold/throttle body
-Blox cam seal
-ARP main studs
-ARP connecting rod bolts (connecting rods resized but not shotpeened)
-Crankshaft was not balanced (Didn't remove the entire engine out of the car)
-Rockauto Piston rings
-Integra (stock) fuel injectors and fuel rail
-B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
-GSR Spark Plugs
-GSR water pump/timing belt
-P28 equivalent ECU
-Yonaka OBD2 to OBD1 jumper harness
-RYwire vtec subharness
-Engine only has 30k so didnt bother replacing oil pump
-Gaskets were all changed
-B16a stock valve train (cam gears, cams, springs, etc.)
-LS distributor
-Golden Eagle LS vtec kit
-ACL bearings
-New Honda Majestic Cam caps/rails bolts
-Every internal engine part was torqued to specs except the head. Cam rail bolts were not torqued because while we were torquing it to specs (1-10 20ft-lbs,11-14 7ft-lbs) first 2 bolts broke off ( we got them out and used the bolts that the head came with)
When wiring up the subharness, I Searched for the vtec pinouts for the p28 ECU and if any pin from the LS harness would go in the vtec pin point for the p28 ECU, I de-pinned it and re-pinned it with the subharness pins. Is that correct?
As for the engine, when I started it up for the first time, It started at 3k rpms and shook like crazy. Found out that the high idle was caused by a leak in the Evap system and fixed it. Engine still shook a lot but we retarded the timing of the distributor by moving it back and forth while it was mounted on to the cam cap and so it lessened the shaking but still felt it. A couple of hours later, we tried to start the car but it didn't want to and it kept cranking. Pulled out spark plugs and saw that they were flooded with fuel, my auto tech teacher assumed that the cause was the fuel pressure regulator and it probably was not set right. Went back to stock B16A FPR and the car started up but car was still running rich, engine kept shaking and exhaust was cloudy. My auto tech teacher said that it was not burning fuel right as if it were delivering fuel late. Here is a video I took https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzsE...ature=youtu.be
Sorry for bad quality but the engine was shaking. Anyone know the reason for all of this or something I can do to fix it? I am running out of options
Alright, came down to one conclusion, i need to tune the car. I bought the p28 ECU chipped and socketed so that might make it easier for me to program it myself? lol i really have no experience with chipping and tunning and all that programming **** so someone please help me out. I downloaded crome on my laptop, what now?
There must be local shops where you live even if you have to drive get a friend to or something I lived out in the middle of northern Ontario and still found places in Toronto. I live in TO now but still not hard if you look
Neptune RTP comes with preinstalled basemaps. You could also order a basemap-burned chip from Phearable or Xenocron.
You don't need to bring the car or the ECU to a shop to get a basemap. They can just burn you a chip with an appropriate basemap on it. Just make sure you get it tuned from there before you actually start driving it hard.
You don't need to bring the car or the ECU to a shop to get a basemap. They can just burn you a chip with an appropriate basemap on it. Just make sure you get it tuned from there before you actually start driving it hard.
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well guys, i put in a p73 and the car ran perfectly. Although vtec was really weak when it engages (probably needs a tune up) but im happy overall that i can drive my car again! Im going to buy a basemap for my specific build off of those tunning websites (prob xenocron) and have some guy burn the chip into my ecu.
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