Looking to pick this up tomorrow. Does it look legit Turbonetics? He said it just got rebuilt. 63 trim t3/t4

 

Looks like an old turbonetics, can't tell you specifically which one though

 

without a part number or serial number along with no wheel measurements means we cant tell you anything

 

Ok thanks for the help. I figured maybe you could tell a thing or two from just looking at it. the pics are from a craigslist ad. And only thing he told me was it was a 63 trim t3/t4.

From my research it seems the blue back means its an older model and small shaft. Could be harder to find rebuild parts.

Just hope its not a chinese turbo with a turbonetics cover on it ..that always scares me

 

no such thing as a 64 trim... and we can't tell from pics

there should be a serial number on it somewhere

the blue back plate is a dead giveaway that it is a real turbonetics turbo

 

yea see thats what im looking for

64 trim?

 

Trim means nothing if we don't know the wheel size and family.

 

actually kinda reminds me of a chrome version of the turbo i had on my stock b18c5-t..

.53 exhaust side, .63 compressor side t3/04e if thats what it is..

 

So it looks pretty legit. Theres a turbonetics logo on every piece.
chra


balance grind on nut




Hard to see. But it says 0558 03
63 STG III

and more numbers on exhuast 20357. Wheel spins smoothly, 0 shaft play!

 

that indicates that it has a stage 3 turbine wheel in a .63a/r t3 inlet ford 5 bolt outlet turbine housing.

pictures of the compressor wheel don't help. It's obviously a t04e but without measurements we don't know which one

 

Well my main concern was that it was a legit unit since I was buying it used and at a great price. He said it made 400 wheel on a lsvtec at ~15 psi.

I'm a little scared to open it up and hoping i can just slap it on and get it dyno tuned. Let the tuner figure it out. Or should I buy some calipers and measure it beforehand?

It'll be on my bone stock ls. RC 750, 2.5 downpipe, ebay i/c, ebay wg. I have a b16 head but I'm opting to stay stock LS cause its cheaper. Besides I'm sure this turbo will max out the stock pistons anyways even without the head. Right?

 

measure it before.

it could be one of like 4 or 5 different sizes

 

Heres the measurements

I know u love my drawing lol. I cant seem to get the exhuast off. It's fused on. I wacked it with a mallet and still.

my professional caliper.


Is it supposed to be this oily? And wheres the O-ring?




All the bolts were pretty loose.

 

finally got the exhaust off

 

Definitely wasnt "just" rebuilt

Hows the shaft play

 

No shaft play. it moves like a millimeter.

 

That's pretty bad.

although if the CHRA was stored with oil inside it then I wouldn't worry about the residue. oil leaks past the seals when it isn't pressurised.

you won't know for sure until the turbo is installed on a running engine if the seals are bad.

 

Also o rings are optional. not every housing needs one.

 

Based off of your measurements (assuming they are correct) you've got a 54 trim t04e compressor wheel.

kind of a bastard really.


and here's the compressor map

 

Yeah, the 50 trims always performed better than the 54 trim "red-headed" step-children that they were. plus, they changed the inducer angle slightly for less rotational speed.

Will it work for a honda? sure.
Is it "the best", no.
Is it "blown". not likely, but won't know for sure until you install it.
Does it need a rubber O-ring? no.

 

Great so I guess I'll go ahead and install it and see what happens lol
I read 54 trims have a little better spool but less top end. But should be more than enough to max out a stock ls bottom. Then with forged maybe 400 wheel?

quick question on the oil feed. Should I run a restrictor? This is the fitting the turbo came with. I also have an ebay restrictor with oil line.

 

The use of a restrictor depends solely on what your oil pressure is.

 

The 50 trim was MUCH better matched with exducer for responsiveness than the 54 trim, which is why it was discontinued. But for your needs, it'll work fine.

Restrictor size and use is based upon oil pressure on the car, (at COLD START) and what it would mean for the bearing system. The older Turbonetics used a "small shaft" which had contained turbine oil sealing rings that were more sensitive than the other companies, so the use of a restrictor is pretty important for Honda B series, and especially K-series engines. For B-series, a .060" to .065" restrictor is best to use for the Garrett and Turbonetics "small shaft", like the one you have. For the newer Turbonetics (made after 2009) they all went to "big shaft" turbine shafts, so the restrictor wasn't needed so much.

The question now comes as to what the hell size you got from eBay, since most of the ads don't tell you what size thread pitch or aperture they give you. So proceed with caution.

Anything over .080" is a bit on the big side and is almost like not having one. So check your thread pitch and size, and most importantly, find out what aperture you have. If you're not that sure, you can still install it, but immediately check for any oil blow-by past the oil sealing ring. Even if there is, you probably haven't killed it if you stop driving on it immediately.

 

Thanks Shodan and wantboost My oil gauges are coming in the mail..so I'll find out the oil pressure soon. I'm also looking for a clutch, so alot is on my mind.

 

Personally I'd use one from competition clutch. they are local to me and my friends work there. I've used their clutches on numerous builds across different chassis and I've never had one single issue. their customer service is also amazing.