so i want to mod up my stock gsr i just got brand new from hm motors, i want to get new cam gears,valve springs,retainers,and cam shafts, i want to kno what is good , i want to spend around 2k 2500 installed and i dont want to buy way more than i need. ive seen some of the super high performance and i just dont think that itd be necessary for the type of build im looking for.
Also if anyone can give me a good word on how much the installation will cost for each part or as a whole just so i have a better idea.

 

in total i want to get bc coilovers,intake ported,exhuast,s300 and a tune plus what i already posted i have 4k for parts and labor.so i want the best possible for that budget

 

and eventually i may go boost but for now building high performance n/a

 

Honestly I would spend the money on gearing, a different intake manifold ( the gsr iab manifold is garbage ), better header and some cams with a bit more duration.

 

You need to decide ultimately if you WILL go boost, or leave it NA. Really there is no reason to spend money on NA stuff if you plan on boosting...unless it will compliment a boosted motor. There isn't a good way to turn a "high performance NA motor" into a boost motor for the most part, they just don't go hand in hand well.

IMO if you want to plan on boost I would look into an AEBS IM and some pro 1 cams. That will get you SOME NA gains, but will also compliment a turbo later on. I would also buy injectors now too.

 

Really just looking at what gets the most bang for the buck and will have some type of longevity , I have about 3k to spend on motor mods. I prefer NA but have had a few of my friends tell me its more $$ to HP efficient to go boost. So Id want to go NA but if the performance to cost ratio is better with boost then id go that route.
Really just want to beef up for the summer.
Thanks for the suggestions guys

 

For $2500 I think you could just turbo the stock motor at low PSI.

I was just reading in a turbo GSR thread of stock GSRs with turbos making 230hp on the dyno.

I've driven an all motor civic with about 200 wheel hp and it was pretty fast, so I can't imagine how an additional 30hp would have been.

Also, from what I've read and been told all motor is more expensive than turbo, BUT all motor should be more reliable if tuned and built properly.

 

Its all the same ****, seriously. Both can be fast, both can be street driven, both can be used every single day if tuned and built properly. A Shitty NA build can go downhill quick, just like a Shitty Turbo build.

Most of the time, we get a lot of customers through the door on a budget looking to be "quick"..

This is what we've had Constant great results with for a daily driven car.
-Intake Manifold
-Cams
-Header
-Intake
-Valve Train

We've seen really, really great drivability results with the PerfX manifolds,Modded perFX manifolds and the skunk pro series / ultra street series.

We don't recommend a lot of camshafts other then ours, but the Pro1's, tuner2's, Our camshafts and some Toda's have all produced excellent results.

The Skunk2 Alpha header and some PLMS have hands down produced some excellent results, we really like the new RMF V2 header which can be had for around 400 bucks.

a Good 3.5'' intake and proper filter setup along with supporting valvetrain.

This combo has yielded some outstanding track times as well as 205-215whp stock block GSRS. Some cars retaining AC/PS as well.

 

Nice man. I'm only about 180 miles from you guys.

 

Contact me via pm if you need anymore help

 

this is the best advice also....A F*CKIN TUNE!!!

So many good builds fall short when the car is back together and guys dont spend the money on that last mile.

 

I did a basic turbo build for around $3k with my stock B18c1 with an S2 intake. Small turbo, full boost around 3k rpm and was still using a dual core radiator. Made 296whp/229tq. Went back NA for the track. I personally wouldn't start spending $$$ until you know exactly what you want. Any NA or FI is reliable as long as it's tuned correctly

 

Keep in mind NA power > FI power..... dyno numbers are decieving

 

usable power > big #'s

 

A broad powerband is normally what street cars need, useable, torque on the demand.

People get caught up in peak numbers too much as well as dyno's in general..