Heyo. I just bought a 94 Accord wagon and it seems kinda funny. Drives pretty nice and I like it, but under the hood is kind of a mess.



It has some red cables connected to the Negative terminal and black on the positive. :??? Whut



Oil all over the place, air doesn't work...

Anyhow I'm getting the blinking D4 with CE light. Pulled the codes and got 4 on the TCM which is VSS. Got 17 and 20 on CEL-- VSS and ELD.

Just wondering if the combination of VSS and ELD could mean anything or if they are just independent issues. And if there's any explanation for the battery being like that?

Should I just replace the VSS and go from there? I took it off today and cleaned it and put it back. Still got the code.

Also when I open the hood after driving around for 10 minutes it seems like its hot as all hell under there. Not sure if I'm just noticing it for some reason or if it's hotter than it should be. Temp gauge indicates normal temps.

just looking for general comments, tips, advice, etc.

Thanks

 

Trace back where the cables are going to. If the ELD was bypassed, incorrectly, it may cause a code. Does the car currently have an aftermarket stereo/amp or other electronics. Those red cables are typical generic 'amp' power cables.
When you cleaned the VSS did you take it apart and clean it or just cleaned the connector? Check the wiring harness to the trans as well.

It probably feels hot because the exhaust manifold heat shield is missing. Some folks remove it as they think the bare manifold looks 'cool', but as you noted it just makes the underhood temps hot.

 

Thanks for the reply.
There's no aftermarket stereo or anything.

I took the VSS completely out, but didn't remove the 3 screws to take the body of it apart. The connectors looked clean. I'm thinking I'll just replace it. I drove it to work today and the speedo wasn't working at all.

Thanks for the help

Think there's any problem with just leaving the ELD thing alone for now or is that going to cause problems?

 

You can clean the internals of the VSS pretty easily. Worth trying before dumping money into a new VSS. Since there has been some wiring done check that all the grounds are still intact and attached.
There is the main ground from the battery to the transmisison, located under the battery tray/corner of transmission.
Bonding jumper around engine mount on Drivers side. It will have three terminals, one large gauge wire bolts to either side of the metal mount, and a smaller gauge wire bolts to the valve cover gasket.
And there is another ground either attached to the intake manifold or thermostat housing which is part of the engine/trans wire harness IIRC.

Check that all the grounds are clean, tight and not damaged.

I would look into replacing the battery cables with factory ones.
The Negative cable should go to the tans and then bolt to the car that's it. Wheverever those cables are going is not correct and may be causing a ground loop, which then would screw up the ELD. Which is what commands when the alternator turns on/off to charge.

'94 LX wagon?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...tcgry5=BATTERY

 

The neg wires are connected to a bracket near the intake, top of valve cover, and transmission. You're saying the stock one only connects in 2 places?

Also I found a 3-wire connector pulled out of its socket in the passenger side fuse box... I plugged it back in and didn't notice any difference when starting and driving the car.
I guess it's possible that I knocked it out when removing the fuse box cover, but I'm not sure.

Thanks for your help so far

 

Well I took it apart and cleaned it out. Re-packed with grease and reinstalled. Still doesn't work. ARGH

I also found that the cooling fan and condenser fan were not working. Pinpointed the problems to cooling fan switch and condenser fan relay.

Do you think these could all be related? and Do you think the battery cable could be screwing up the electrical system?

This is starting to get frustrating.. Sure would be nice to have a speedometer and A/C


Meanwhile, the car is driving fine and I love it

 

I thinks so. The ELD is the Electrical Load Detector, if any changes in load or bypassing of the ELD is done it will not control the alternator correctly via the ECU.
Go here >http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...artsSearch.jsp
Look up your cars year model/etc. and select 'battery'. You will see the below image. Note how it doesn't go all over but just to a few points.