JDM B18C-R bolt ons dyno
Hey HT,
This past week I purchased a 98+ Spec JDM type R motor and trans to be put into my DA.- it's a year 2000 type r swap... My goal for the motor is to keep it 100% internally stock and reach an optimistic 200whp from it with a nice broad power curve- not super interested in peak hp #. Please provide input if this should be attainable with these mods
My plans:
Intake- I have a 3" samco intake for itr with 3" velocity stack, k&n filter
Throttle body- I have a 68mm omni throttle body
Intake manifold- this is a big question for me- if I stay stock can I and would it benefit me to port match it to this 68mm TB?? OR should I leave stock jdm itr TB and IM- stock diameter is 62mm I believe for both
Also- hondatata intake manifold gasket and tb spacer
Header- I have a PLM rmf narrow replica and the stock jdm 4-1 2.5" unit- which to run? The PLM has small dents on the bottom. I'm thinking of running skunk2 alpha... I run it on my dc2 and like it a lot.
I have a 2.5" high flow cat by magnaflow
Exhaust- as of now I have a full 2.5" mandrel bent system by Kteller- unfortunately the piping is 2.5" OD not ID as I thought when buying. I'm considering going 3" exhaust by thermal r&d if it's not too large. The exhaust options for DAs are not much.
NO ac or ps- going to run a race pulley( fluidyne)
Light flywheel 10lbs or so- stock clutch
Injectors- stock? Or 310cc
Cams- stock??...ctr??? or I heard the type r valvetrain can support a few drop in cams such a spoon, toda (a,b,c lol I forget which)- but I want to keep stock valvetrain
And obviously a tune- can this get me to my goals? Thanks
This past week I purchased a 98+ Spec JDM type R motor and trans to be put into my DA.- it's a year 2000 type r swap... My goal for the motor is to keep it 100% internally stock and reach an optimistic 200whp from it with a nice broad power curve- not super interested in peak hp #. Please provide input if this should be attainable with these mods
My plans:
Intake- I have a 3" samco intake for itr with 3" velocity stack, k&n filter
Throttle body- I have a 68mm omni throttle body
Intake manifold- this is a big question for me- if I stay stock can I and would it benefit me to port match it to this 68mm TB?? OR should I leave stock jdm itr TB and IM- stock diameter is 62mm I believe for both
Also- hondatata intake manifold gasket and tb spacer
Header- I have a PLM rmf narrow replica and the stock jdm 4-1 2.5" unit- which to run? The PLM has small dents on the bottom. I'm thinking of running skunk2 alpha... I run it on my dc2 and like it a lot.
I have a 2.5" high flow cat by magnaflow
Exhaust- as of now I have a full 2.5" mandrel bent system by Kteller- unfortunately the piping is 2.5" OD not ID as I thought when buying. I'm considering going 3" exhaust by thermal r&d if it's not too large. The exhaust options for DAs are not much.
NO ac or ps- going to run a race pulley( fluidyne)
Light flywheel 10lbs or so- stock clutch
Injectors- stock? Or 310cc
Cams- stock??...ctr??? or I heard the type r valvetrain can support a few drop in cams such a spoon, toda (a,b,c lol I forget which)- but I want to keep stock valvetrain
And obviously a tune- can this get me to my goals? Thanks
Last edited by HypL; May 25, 2014 at 04:47 AM.
hmm, ok.
i think the toda rep header seems to produce the best results if i remember correctly. there is a TON of info on headers in here just double check on that.
you will not be able to use stock injectors. 310 can work, you might even want to get something a bit bigger in case you want to use big cams later on.
ok now here is where im probably going to hear it, but i would keep those stock cams especially if you want to keep stock valvetrain. those cams with a vtec set 4800-5200 depending on dyno tuning will make for a great powerband up to around 8000-8200 rpm. they should make a nice bit of tq maybe closing in on 140ftlbs right around 6000 rpm. they probably wont hit 200 whp, but certainly can get around 190 and you dont have to rev it over 8000 to hit max hp.
im almost done building an 82mm lsvtec with the same compression as your jdm r motor, and have the same goals you do. i went with the itr cams
i think the toda rep header seems to produce the best results if i remember correctly. there is a TON of info on headers in here just double check on that.
you will not be able to use stock injectors. 310 can work, you might even want to get something a bit bigger in case you want to use big cams later on.
ok now here is where im probably going to hear it, but i would keep those stock cams especially if you want to keep stock valvetrain. those cams with a vtec set 4800-5200 depending on dyno tuning will make for a great powerband up to around 8000-8200 rpm. they should make a nice bit of tq maybe closing in on 140ftlbs right around 6000 rpm. they probably wont hit 200 whp, but certainly can get around 190 and you dont have to rev it over 8000 to hit max hp.
im almost done building an 82mm lsvtec with the same compression as your jdm r motor, and have the same goals you do. i went with the itr cams
If you are looking for more mid range power, I would look into the P30 intake manifold. You might lose a few hp up top, but you should get a good bump in the 4-6k range. Or you can get it ported, get better top end than your stock itr, and still have great midrange.
200whp is completely doable on stock internals, I hit 205whp on GSR cams.
You'll need a good header, good exhaust, and the correct IM / TB setup. Oh, and a hell of a tuner.
You'll need a good header, good exhaust, and the correct IM / TB setup. Oh, and a hell of a tuner.
This is a USDM B18C5.
A customer bought this motor to me, for a rebuild. We did new rings, new bearings, cleaned up the pistons and a small line hone on the bottom end, everything else was within spec and require just resurfacing and cleaning.
No milling of the head.
The Veh has Password JDM whale ***** intake, Stock intake manifold, Hytech small tube header, stock injectors, through a 2.5'' exhaust.
The 3 runs together you see are the final results from the street/track tuning I did on the car, the 180/121 is after the cam gears were adjusted on the dyno finding the most useable power between 5-8. This was a road racing ITR so customer requested VTEC be set early (4300ish) RPMS. As you can see, I firmly believe this car had maybe a 190-192whp with a better intake or a tuned intake for that matter... the Whale ***** was a poor investment but the customer wanted to try it out, he was very happy overall.
I've done a handful of stock JDM GSRs and ITRs and they seem to be around 170-188whp healthy, bolt ons and good tuning 190-195 is very doable. I've had some freaks come through the shop and are fairly stout.
A customer bought this motor to me, for a rebuild. We did new rings, new bearings, cleaned up the pistons and a small line hone on the bottom end, everything else was within spec and require just resurfacing and cleaning.
No milling of the head.
The Veh has Password JDM whale ***** intake, Stock intake manifold, Hytech small tube header, stock injectors, through a 2.5'' exhaust.
The 3 runs together you see are the final results from the street/track tuning I did on the car, the 180/121 is after the cam gears were adjusted on the dyno finding the most useable power between 5-8. This was a road racing ITR so customer requested VTEC be set early (4300ish) RPMS. As you can see, I firmly believe this car had maybe a 190-192whp with a better intake or a tuned intake for that matter... the Whale ***** was a poor investment but the customer wanted to try it out, he was very happy overall.
I've done a handful of stock JDM GSRs and ITRs and they seem to be around 170-188whp healthy, bolt ons and good tuning 190-195 is very doable. I've had some freaks come through the shop and are fairly stout.
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Actually if anything it's stingy. It was at DNR Performance.
It was also on a high compression 2 liter with a ported head and 3" exhaust.

Those guys are right though, 180-190 is pretty average for an ITR with boltons.
200whp on an internally stock ITR is a realistic number now days. You just have to do research and carefully choose parts. If you want a usable power band and don't care about peaking for 200RPM to just hit a number, stay the hell away from the Skunk2 Ultra intake manifold! The street version is clearly built for a 2L because it makes awful torque and is very peaky late in the RPM's on a 1.8L
I've seen 2 different 1.8L with the Ultra Street show more top end than anything. What happens when you taper runners, you effectively shorten them. At least that's what the motor thinks so to say. The design of the Ultra Street just trumps flow at upper RPM over the Pro Series/ITR.
Did 199whp on a jdm R motor. Stock internals, stock head. I think i could have hit 200 or a couple over but we were doing back to back pulls and it was getting HOT.
-jdm b18c
-skunk2 s1 cams
-aem adjustable cam gears
-aem cai w/vlocity stack
-cant remember what header I had, I wanna say it was a hytech replica but it was good quality tbh, fit great and performed well
-import builders ported ITR intake manifold and port matched TB
-hondata IM gasket
-440cc injectors
-aem fuel rail
-walbro 255
-aem fpr
-hondata s200
-msd ignition w/coil
That was basically it. I had some issues at the dyno fixing leaks from having a lot of parts powdercoated and we were doing pulls up until like 1am. The last three pulls were back to back and the last pull was 199whp and i believe tq was at 132. It was a very fun and stout setup. I still have the long block collecting dust!
For the record when it was just a bone stock swap on a tune that was in my opinion iffy just 1 year before on the exact same dyno it made 164whp.
-jdm b18c
-skunk2 s1 cams
-aem adjustable cam gears
-aem cai w/vlocity stack
-cant remember what header I had, I wanna say it was a hytech replica but it was good quality tbh, fit great and performed well
-import builders ported ITR intake manifold and port matched TB
-hondata IM gasket
-440cc injectors
-aem fuel rail
-walbro 255
-aem fpr
-hondata s200
-msd ignition w/coil
That was basically it. I had some issues at the dyno fixing leaks from having a lot of parts powdercoated and we were doing pulls up until like 1am. The last three pulls were back to back and the last pull was 199whp and i believe tq was at 132. It was a very fun and stout setup. I still have the long block collecting dust!
For the record when it was just a bone stock swap on a tune that was in my opinion iffy just 1 year before on the exact same dyno it made 164whp.
Compared to 5-10 years ago there is a pretty solid recipe for getting 200-ish whp from a stock-block GSR that has been outlined above. However I would reiterate that gearing plays a very important role as well and you aren't going to be seeing the full performance potential unless you think seriously about how you can shorten and tighten your gearing (assuming you have a non-VTEC transmission). I suggest that $450 spent towards gearing might get you farther than $450 spent elsewhere in your build.
Also do not forget to budget for tuning. You will find that eats up a lot of your budget.
Also do not forget to budget for tuning. You will find that eats up a lot of your budget.
97 JDM ITR and trans, 68mm TB, DW 330cc injectors, toda rep header, aem intake, 2.5" test pipe, tanabe catback, hondata S300 V2, 193whp 132ft/lb tuned by RT/Tuning. There could be a few more HP's squeezed out since the catback is only 60mm which is, I think, 2.33" or something like that. Overall I love the way it performs.
bigger exhaust and performer X with 70mm throttle body and a tuned intake length would get you there
youre only 7whp away , removing power steering got me 5-6whp almost all the way across the rpm
youre only 7whp away , removing power steering got me 5-6whp almost all the way across the rpm
Compared to 5-10 years ago there is a pretty solid recipe for getting 200-ish whp from a stock-block GSR that has been outlined above. However I would reiterate that gearing plays a very important role as well and you aren't going to be seeing the full performance potential unless you think seriously about how you can shorten and tighten your gearing (assuming you have a non-VTEC transmission). I suggest that $450 spent towards gearing might get you farther than $450 spent elsewhere in your build.
Also do not forget to budget for tuning. You will find that eats up a lot of your budget.
Also do not forget to budget for tuning. You will find that eats up a lot of your budget.
Also- I had mentioned that I have a 68mm TB that I was hoping to use and port match the stock ITR manifold... Can the stock manifold be ported to a 68mm inlet?
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