Overheat and knock - 96 civic DX
I have a 96 civic dx i bought about 3 months ago. 1.6 5 speed.
Non v-tec.
Its problems are weird.... ok so it had a head job. All seals werent put in right. So oil pan leaks bad get that fixed then the manifold cracked. Still loud tic. Then a week ago. My sister drove it. Somehow ran it hot. Blew the radiator out. Still ran it hot back home. And i got the radiator replaced. Doesnt smoke or drink water. And it only knocks when you start it. And when it gets warmed up. If you tac 3500 or more. And then it will become constantly as the motor will start to run hot but never loses water this whole time. And slowly is losing power but its barely effecting its power. And when it runs hot it dies. But after you turn the heat on sometimes it will cool down to drivable without dying.... what is this problem??
Non v-tec.
Its problems are weird.... ok so it had a head job. All seals werent put in right. So oil pan leaks bad get that fixed then the manifold cracked. Still loud tic. Then a week ago. My sister drove it. Somehow ran it hot. Blew the radiator out. Still ran it hot back home. And i got the radiator replaced. Doesnt smoke or drink water. And it only knocks when you start it. And when it gets warmed up. If you tac 3500 or more. And then it will become constantly as the motor will start to run hot but never loses water this whole time. And slowly is losing power but its barely effecting its power. And when it runs hot it dies. But after you turn the heat on sometimes it will cool down to drivable without dying.... what is this problem??
I have a 96 civic dx i bought about 3 months ago. 1.6 5 speed.
Non v-tec.
Its problems are weird.... ok so it had a head job. All seals werent put in right. So oil pan leaks bad get that fixed then the manifold cracked. Still loud tic. Then a week ago. My sister drove it. Somehow ran it hot. Blew the radiator out. Still ran it hot back home. And i got the radiator replaced. Doesnt smoke or drink water. And it only knocks when you start it. And when it gets warmed up. If you tac 3500 or more. And then it will become constantly as the motor will start to run hot but never loses water this whole time. And slowly is losing power but its barely effecting its power. And when it runs hot it dies. But after you turn the heat on sometimes it will cool down to drivable without dying.... what is this problem??
Non v-tec.
Its problems are weird.... ok so it had a head job. All seals werent put in right. So oil pan leaks bad get that fixed then the manifold cracked. Still loud tic. Then a week ago. My sister drove it. Somehow ran it hot. Blew the radiator out. Still ran it hot back home. And i got the radiator replaced. Doesnt smoke or drink water. And it only knocks when you start it. And when it gets warmed up. If you tac 3500 or more. And then it will become constantly as the motor will start to run hot but never loses water this whole time. And slowly is losing power but its barely effecting its power. And when it runs hot it dies. But after you turn the heat on sometimes it will cool down to drivable without dying.... what is this problem??
It only knocks as your cranking it. The when it gets warmed up about 3500 rpms. It knocks loud and i listened but its not the bottom. And its still running strong. But i just really put everything i had in it. Soo im trying to figure out what it is.... can you help a lil.?
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I assume the thread got moved here...... I agree, sounds like the motor needs a rebuild. Probably rod knock. Try to pin point where the knock is coming from. Use a mechanics stethoscope. I always use a super long screw driver and put my ear on the handle. If you hear it loud and clear in the block, bad news! =( If it sounds like it is coming from the head, try adjusting your valves. If it's loud enough for you to hear in the passenger cabin while driving, I would point more toward the bottom end.
Ok. And its like 6 thumps when i start it then its quite. But after it heats up it only does it after tackin. 3500. Anything under and it dont do it thought at first it was the valves cause its blows smog on my back bumper. But i never see it when its runnin. I have tried to pin point it all day. My buddy pressed the gas i was under it didnt hear it much at all. But at the top its loud.
Use a mechanics stethoscope. I always use a super long screw driver and put my ear on the handle. If you hear it loud and clear in the block, bad news! =( If it sounds like it is coming from the head, try adjusting your valves. If it's loud enough for you to hear in the passenger cabin while driving, I would point more toward the bottom end.
Quit drivin it asap!! My d16y8 did exactly the same. I pin pointed it to the bottom end. I planned on swapping the engine, so I just drove it until it was done. If you keep driving it, it will ruin your motor and leave you stranded somewhere.
I found alot of problems fried plugs and bad fuel filter. And theres a few messed up sensors. But i got help working on it. Started to take it all out today. So guess im going to rebuild it. It just seems smart at this point. Ill update some more tomorrow. But is the head suppose to read different from the block.??
Yes the head has a casting code which can give a general indication of what motor it goes to. Some castings were used on multiple motors.
The stamp on the block is the specific motor regardless if the head was changed or not.
I'm not sure at what point the VIN started being stamped onto the block and/or head but I do know it's not on the 92-95 and I sort of doubt it made it onto the 96-00.
This post here shows that your P2F-HA is from the D16Y7 motor. the 9/8 means it was cast in 1998. So it doesn't sound like your engine is original, at least not the head.
The stamp on the block is the specific motor regardless if the head was changed or not.
I'm not sure at what point the VIN started being stamped onto the block and/or head but I do know it's not on the 92-95 and I sort of doubt it made it onto the 96-00.
This post here shows that your P2F-HA is from the D16Y7 motor. the 9/8 means it was cast in 1998. So it doesn't sound like your engine is original, at least not the head.
Yes the head has a casting code which can give a general indication of what motor it goes to. Some castings were used on multiple motors.
The stamp on the block is the specific motor regardless if the head was changed or not.
I'm not sure at what point the VIN started being stamped onto the block and/or head but I do know it's not on the 92-95 and I sort of doubt it made it onto the 96-00.
This post here shows that your P2F-HA is from the D16Y7 motor. the 9/8 means it was cast in 1998. So it doesn't sound like your engine is original, at least not the head.
The stamp on the block is the specific motor regardless if the head was changed or not.
I'm not sure at what point the VIN started being stamped onto the block and/or head but I do know it's not on the 92-95 and I sort of doubt it made it onto the 96-00.
This post here shows that your P2F-HA is from the D16Y7 motor. the 9/8 means it was cast in 1998. So it doesn't sound like your engine is original, at least not the head.
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NiKKa NiKKy
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killacam661
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