New best time 11.01@126.8 on 10/3/15



Update as of 9/12/15
New best time 11.13@126.5. This was after switching to bc stage 2 na cams



Update as of 8/28/15
New best time of 11.35@121


Update as of 5/17/15
The car has been together for a while now and holding up great so far. I have street tuned it myself with Neptune rtp with boost by gear setup. So far my best pass is 11.66@118.4mph on 16.5psi of boost. I haven't ran it at the track since installing the AEM methanol injection with a more aggressive tune yet. I think the car is capable of an 11.4x pass. This car has turned out almost exactly the way I wanted it to. It just enough power to have fun with and not so much that it's constantly braking parts. It's more setup for a fun street car then it is for an all out drag car. It's very responsive on the street and boost by gear is dialed so I have traction in every gear.

Some more current pics of the car







Thought I would finally start a build thread. My goals for this car are 280-300whp on a stock ls block. I plan to keep the turbo setup cheap and simple. I have had builds in the past that had upwards of $20k in them. For this build I'm really cheeping out on parts and doing everything as inexpensive as possible. This build is just for fun, the car does not have to be reliable, its not a dd, and if it breaks its not a big deal to me. I just want a beater that i can have fun with on the street and the track without worrying about breaking because its just a toy.

I have had the car a few months now and have got a good amount of progress done so far. I hope to have the car running na in a month or so to workout any problems it might have, then piece together my turbo setup and have it tuned.

updated parts list

Engine is an ls
B18a1 head
B18b1cams (upgraded to bc0022 stage 2 na cams)
Obx intake manifold
Crower dual valve springs & ti retainers
Super tech valves
Mild port and polish
ARP head studs
Blox intake manifold

B18a1 block
81.5mm Nippon "turbo" pistons 9.2-1 compression
Stock rods with ARP bolts (ends resized)
Fully balanced rotating assembly

Suspension setup
progress cs2 coilovers
energy suspension bushings throughout

turbo setup
Precision 5431e .48ar hot side (upgraded to a .63ar turbine housing)
ebay cast manifold
Ebay wyntonm 38mm wg (hey I know how to set boost cut lol)
rfl bov
ebay intercooler 31x12x3
home made 3" dp
home made 2.5 ic piping
Osidetiger 600cc injectors (these injectors suck! Running in900cc now)
Injector Nation 900cc ev14 Bosch injectors
AEM 320lph fuel pump
Mac valve for boost by gear
hondata 4 bar map
XTD stage 4 unsprung clutch 2300lb pressure plate
AEM water/methanol injection kit 500cc nozzle
Neptune rtp with demon 2 tuned by me
Moates Bluetooth module & tunerview app on galaxy tablet


This is what the car looked like when I towed it home. Only payed $200 for it. clean title too lol.














I decided to do a full wire tuck and brake line tuck and painted the bay white.











Installed a gauge cluster that had a tach, the one in the did not have one.



The body needs a lot and I mean a lot of body work, but I really dont like the teal color so I ended up spraying the car flat white just to get the color changes. Once its running I'll go back and straighten the body out.









My paint booth lol!



Picked up some ls webs and painted them black

 

Picked up a full ls swap that included everything even the radiator ecu every little nut and bolt for another Eg that got wrecked. Now im working on cleaning it up a bit.

 

When I pulled the head I was disappointed to find a block gaurd installed in the block. I'm afraid to remove it because I don't want to warp the cylinder walls. I am planning on leaving the bottom end alone and rebuilding the head. I have ARP head studs coming in the mail too.

 

[URL=http://s494.photobucket.com/user/boosted94gsr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140515_224710.jpg.html][/URL

 

looks good so far!

 

Thanks man!

 

Im in on this one. I have a very similar setup.

 

Nice! Is your together and running? What kinda of power did you make?

 

So far clean setup. What numbers are looking for after the build?

 

Thanks. I wanna make 280-300whp max. Bone stock LS with ARP headstuds should handle that no problem.

 

I filled my mounts with polyurethane construction adhesive. This stuff dries really stiff, should make for some pretty solid mounts. I really really hate wheel hop! I shouldn't get any with the progress cs2 coilovers, all new energy suspension bushings, and solid motor mounts. I may end up with a set of traction bars in the future too.

 

No I just took the turbo off last week in order to pass emissions. When it was boosted I never had a chance to get it on the dyno.

 

Nice work dude!

 

Put that **** back on! lol

In Oregon a car that is older then 20 years does not have to past emissions. Mine is a 92 so I don't have to worry about it.

 

Its 25 for us here in Cleveland

 

I like what you did with those mounts. OEM fitment with hasport stiffness.

 

Thanks man.

Its the cheapest way to get solid mounts. Cost me $15 total for 2 tube of that stuff at home depot.

 

We shall all see how this cheap clutch works out...

Its a stage 4 rated for over 300tq but I'm not sure I believe that lol

 

I cleaned up the head and lapped the valves.

This is how I removed the keepers. A deep socket with a magnet inside along with a little muscle lol





Here is a before and after of a valve. They were pretty bad but a brass wire wheel made short work of it.











This is how i lapped the valves





Before lapping






After lapping

 

So after spending all that time cleaning and lapping valves I took the head to the machine shop to have it resurfaced and they pointed out this nice CRACK!!! They said the head is junk. Sucks pretty bad wish I would have saw that before I did all that work.

You can see the crack runs through a couple of the threads in the spark plug hole.

 

Sorry, its not nice that your head was cracked. But excellent job on the build.

 

I am going to put a new set of piston rings in along with new rod bearings. When I pulled the oil pan and windage tray I noticed the the rod cap on cylinder 1 is on backwards compared to the rest of the rod caps. Also the stamp on the rods are not the correct number for the cylinder its in. #2 rod is in cylinder #1 and #3 rod is in #4 cylinder. I also noticed the the main bearing caps have the arrow pointing toward the timing belt, is this correct? It seems like whoever put this short block together didn't know what they were doing...

How bad is it that the one rod is in backwards compared to the rest? Should I have the machine shop press it out and turn it around?

 

 

I pulled the pistons and rods out. The crank rod journals look like crap! I can hang my fingernail on the grooves on all 4 journals.

Does anyone think these can be polished out by the machine shop??

 

I'm pretty sure this engine over heated. All 4 piston skirts are scratched along with the cylinder walls. The rod bearings look like crap aswell. I'm going to pull the crank next and take it to the machine shop for inspection. I really hope it can be salvaged...

At this point I'm thinking about buying 81.5mm Nippon pistons and having the block over bored as well. At the same time I think I'm gonna get ARP rod bolts and have the rod ends honed.