Been doing research for the past 3 weeks an I'm fed up and about to sell this car after only a month of owning it.

So it's a 1998 spec jdm b18c type r motor with just over 100000kms on it been dynoed tuned made 183 whp with intake header exhaust I have the dyno graph but date is unknown. Car pulls alright but doesn't really feel like I'm making full power sometimes sluggish(it is in a 4door Ek so is a bit heavy) . The car burns A F@&K LOAD OF OIL more then just your average type r quart every 1000-2000 miles more so like I did a oil change on Friday and I just checked the car and I just barely have oil touching the dip stick WTF!!....

Been around Hondas for a long time but just recently started getting into some power an track racing . I will not track this car when it burns a liter of oil every 800kms

I first noticed after a few days of owning the car after every time I ripped it stinked like burnt oil and un burnt fuel. The car puffs out a dark gray smoke at WOT then stinks right after. Black **** alllll over the back of the car . But mainly the thing that was freaking me out the most was putting a piece of cardboard at the exhaust then reving up to 5k and there being a dark dark black runny circle unsure if it was oil or fuel (it's a turned ecu had the ecu checked doesn't say it's running rich and all my o2's r on). Did my research narrowed it down to maybe being my pcv valve. I changed the vavle and it stoped shoting **** out the exhaust woohoo! So I thought that was on Friday and like I said I'm still down oil and still stuff all over the back of my car

New spark plugs I did Friday are all white on the ends of it and plug #2 was black and has oil all over the plug threads

Things I've checked to make sure it's not running rich or burning oil

Compression test : 230-230-230-225
New plugs new wires new distributor
New o2 sensors
New header and exhaust and cat
Intake filter is good

I'm going to do a leak down test done at Honda this week thts the last thing to really tell

Anything else anyone can thing of to check !!! This is really pissing me off im thinking about selling the car if I need to do oil rings or valve steams

Thanks for anyone's help

Ryan

 

could be the piston rings could be no good or the head gasket could be blown

 

Would a leak down test show if it was the o rings ? And I don't know about the head gasket everything looks very clean no leaks anywhere maybe a sweat around the oil pan but that's it

 

a leak down test pinpoints where you are losing compression might help you out but I really don't know if it will inform you if the o rings are bad. personally I would replace all the seals and rings in the motor. the head gasket could also be seating wrong or not holding a proper seal and the oil can be spilling somewhere else.

 

A leak-down test will not tell you anything new.

It's time for a rebuild. Take the block to a local machine shop and have them measure the cylinders...you might be okay with just replacing the rings. Ask if they can magnaflux the head, replace valve seals and resurface. Replace your gaskets and you should be fine. If you have some money to spend, send the head to Portflow for a valve job.

No band-aid will "fix" your situation. It's gonna take a coupla hundred bucks.

 

I was thinking about a rebuild and it's only worth it becuase it's a R if bit was b16 or Gsr car would be sold already. How much am I looking at for new bearings rings head rebuild and gasket set ? Do have a friend with a dad who can do all this but I wouldn't know if he's over charging me or not I don't want new internels just to be able to track it without adding 1/2 a liter every 2 laps lol

 

Bump

 

I had my block re-ringed/honed, new bearings, re-assembled..........Head surfaced, valve job, new seals for $1,200.00 a couple years ago.

 

Just got quoted $1400 from a good place that's not bad I guess

 

My god... TUNE YOUR CAR.

Or run a stock P73 ECU.

You have no idea what fuel map is on that ECU, and it sounds like it's running WAY too rich. If you throw it on the dyno and check your AFR I can assure it will be way out of wack.

There is no way to check if it's running rich without putting it on a dyno.

 

Lol the cars been dyno tuned by a known shop made 183whp I thought I said that above

 

YOU haven't tuned it, you don't know what parts have changed, you don't know if that's even for the same car. I'm telling you, get it tuned and you'll thank me later.

 

OP won't track a car because it burns a little oil?!! It has 225-230psi of compression in all cylinders. It burns oil.

Probably stuck oil control rings or valve seals.

You're this mad over 1qt of oil every 800km? Are you using Mobil1? If you are...you're doing this to yourself.

It's common for ITRs to burn 1qt+ of oil every 1k miles or so. Even with good compression. My ITR burned about that much...or more if I highway drove it. There was nothing wrong with it. So I went to the race track. And then again. And again.

I added oil. Because that's easier than worrying. Mostly because there's nothing to worry about.

 

I am using 10w-30 extended porfotmance Mobil 1 becuase that oil breaks down less but it's all ******* gone alrdy ..... I was thinking about going with 15w-50 Mobil performance oil I've read it's not to bad at all in a type r but what oil r u using if u say I'm doing to to my self. I'm just sick of spending $15 a week on oil lol

 

You're causing more damage by using thick oil like 15W50. Mobil burns off. Try not using Mobil 1.

Try Castrol Edge 0W30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W30. Or use a conventional oil. I had good luck with castrol synthetic and non synthetic 5W30.

10W30 is only thicker at start up. It's the same as 5W30 or 0W30 at operating temp (within a tolerance range). Mobil1 10W30 is probably on the thin side of 30 after it warms up.

Again, you're going to cause more damage using a much thicker oil than intended. You have 230psi compression. Your motor is fine.

Might need valve seals or oil control rings to stop the oil burn. Check for a clogged PCV valve also.

Your tune is likely way too rich and causing some of the oil burn also. $15/week on oil is probably an exaggeration. Unless you're driving the car 1600-2400km/week? Although I'm not sure what oil costs you.

 

I said in the original post tht I thought I had a lot of blow by on the pcv valve being stuck open but I changed it wasn't that I got my tune checked out by a shop and it was no where near running overly rich and the o2 sensor was off so I turned it back on so the tune is all good. I daily drive the car but I don't wona switch to conventional oil I wona stay syntetic I always loved amsoil but didn't feel like paying the big bucks when I'm just burning it all. This car will be a weekend worrier just finishing up some suspension work then ill be out once a week minimum on the track. Heard alot of good about penzoil what about a 5-40 oil some just a little thicker? I'm thinking about just getting the head rebuilt not the whole block would be half the price to do the get it milled cleaned up new top end gasket set and hope it was the vavle seals that were just leaking lol

And like I said had the ecu checked out and it's not running rich..... Would the car burn oil if the timing is off a bit ? Belt was changed wonder if the timing got fuked

 

230psi compression means the cam timing is probably fine. And no...even if it were off, it has nothing to do with oil.

5W40 isn't too bad. Again, I'm not all for using thicker oil to cover up an issue. But rotella T is available in 5W40 synthetic. Should curb some volatility based oil burnoff. And it's got good anti wear additives.

 

Is that safe? Isn't that a diesel oil?

 

I had a jdm itr at one point in my life had it for 2 years didn't burn much oil at first but the last 6 months or so burned a lot of oil about a quart or more every 1000 miles ... Also depended in how I drove it .. If I drove normal and didn't downshift to slow downoor go full throttle it wasn't that bad..

but when I went wot it was a smoke screen behind me same thing if I downshift to slow the car down when I take off it was a big cloud of blue smoke

I only ran Castrol non syn 1030 but still ran a smokey 13.8 1/4 on street tire

my friend started running rotella t6 synthetic with zinc and he says the oil burning has slowed down in his itr

 

Yes. To both questions. Safer than 80W280 or whatever you wanted to run

 

Had similar problems a few years back and ended up just being valve stem seals. With the compression being good, I would look more towards the valve stem seals.

 

^^ Compression looks ok so problem must be somewhere else. Valve seals are common place to burn oil from on bseries. I had similar problem with my old jdm gsr before, turned out to be factory pcv was clogged + mobil1 synthetic.

 

I use 10w40;valvoline
Mine burns
Need to change valve stem seals